can a canoe paddle be too delicate?

Advice
#1

I read a review of one of the lighter-weight general-recreation paddles by Bending Branches. The reviewer said that he was afraid that it would snap given his use, which consisted of pries off of the hull in whitewater. Is it realistically possible that a light-weight paddle would snap? I ask because I’m looking for a decent “all around” paddle to use as a main paddle. I’d be using it in class 1 whitewater at most, and mostly in winding swamps and small open lakes. I plan to push off of rocks and stumps, etc. I won’t be abusing the paddle, but I won’t be babying it either.

I’m looking at the heavier Bending Branches paddles since I don’t want something that will fail. However, I really do want to go light. For my use, should I steer clear of BB’s lighter offerings? What about the Werner Churchill? I like the light weight, but wonder about a thin fiberglass blade.

Thanks

#2

Also, would I want a partial, 2 oz, or 4 oz rock guard with the BB paddles?

#3

you need to select a paddle that fits your level of “abuse” .Light weight does not necessarily mean not strong or abrasion resistant- plenty of composites out there, and wood paddles with dynel edging

#4

Pushing off on rocks and stumps is not what a paddle was designed for… Get something mid range and heavier.

There are good river paddles that are light weight but again not rock levers… Some fine double dihedral paddles covered in 2 oz glass by Dogpaddle, but he would not recommend pushing off rocks… He does whitewater paddle but has other methods of getting off stumps involving precision paddling around them and shifting weight in the boat.

The blade does not usually snap. A too small shaft may . especially on pries of the gunwale…

Your situation calls for a beefier paddle like a Grey Owl Voyageur.

#5

cool, thanks

#6

Check out Sawyer Paddles Ranger X model. It’s about $130.00, and with a little care it could easily last a decade, or more.
Quite capable as a recreational paddle, or for lower levels of whitewater.

You might also benefit from checking out Aquabound and Werner paddles. Pricing is similar to the Ranger X.

Don’t fall into the trap of “you need” a $300.00/$350.00 custom made paddle. You don’t!

BOB

P.S. Class I is not whitewater.

#7

Take a look at the Aquabound Edge, and the Werner Nantahala models.

P.S. I own and use with some regularity a Sawyer Ranger X, an Aquabound Edge, and a Werner Nantahala. So I have experience with all 3 of the models I’m suggesting.

#8

Bob is right. No one NEEDS an expensive, custom paddle. For most paddlers, a mid range, quality paddle will get the job done, nicely. Then again, no paddler NEEDS, a top of the line canoe. On the other hand, accomplished paddlers appreciate the nuance provided by top quality, properly fitted equipment.

As for the original poster, there are a variety of economical, quality products that will likely suit his or her needs.

#9

I was going to get a straight paddle. I see that the Aquabound Edge is curved. Frankly, I’ve never used a curved paddle. I tend to change sides pretty rapidly when I’m maneuvering in tight places. Would I really want a curved paddle?

The Ranger and the Edge are both about 27 oz. Would I notice the difference over a 19-20 oz. paddle? I am an intermediate paddler. By paddling.com standards, I might just be a seasoned beginner. Would I really appreciate a $140 paddle over a generic sporting goods store $35 paddle? What is the difference b/t a $140 paddle and a dirt cheap one? Flex?

What width should I consider, about 8"?

thanks

#10

@music321 said:
Would I really appreciate a $140 paddle over a generic sporting goods store $35 paddle? What is the difference b/t a $140 paddle and a dirt cheap one? Flex?

What width should I consider, about 8"?

thanks

You will absolutely notice a difference between a $140 paddle and a cheap one. $140 is hardly expensive, as canoe paddles go, but paddles of about that price are pretty darned good, all things considered. A cheap paddle from a big-box store will feel like a 2x4 in your hands, if it’s a wood paddle. If it’s plastic and aluminum, it’ll just be heavy and clutzy. Oh, and the average $140 paddle will slice through the water quite cleanly, which is something no cheap paddle does well. Then there’s the weight difference, and you’ll surely notice that too. You mentioned flex, and that’s something that’s highly variable. There are good paddles with a lot of flex, and good paddles with almost none. You’ll have a “detectable amount” of flex with a decent paddle, though you may not notice it at all until you compare it to something stiffer.

As to your original question, it was said that you can’t push off rocks with a fairly light paddle, but I haven’t found that to be true at all. I’ve been pushing off rocks and logs with straight-shaft wooden paddles that are comparable with Bending Branches lighter wood models for years and have never even come close to damaging one. Now, I don’t make a habit of that, and I don’t use the paddle to get my boat unstuck or anything stupid like that, but an occasional poke against a rock or log to adjust where your boat is going when it’s not possible or practical to plant the blade in the water, or to push the boat sideways away from where you’ve been parked along the bank, and stuff like that, is no big deal if the blade has a rock guard. With one hand on the top grip and nothing else, or with the lower hand doing exerting no lateral force (that’s the typical method for pushing), the hardest you can push really won’t be very hard, since the boat will quickly react by moving the other way. Maybe you can’t expect a super-light bent or curved shaft to tolerate the worst you can do, but I don’t believe there’s a straight-shaft wood paddle out there that you can break with a one-handed push initiated from a floating (not grounded) canoe, where the applied force is in-line with the shaft and blade. In most cases, you’ll be pushing with no more than 10 to 15 pounds of force, and that’s nothing, compared to what it would take to break it.

The worst thing I’ve found when it comes to breaking paddles is rocky shallows, when the blade drops down into a tight gap between two rocks and there’s not enough room for the angle of the blade to change as much as what’s necessary as you complete your stroke while the boat is passing by that location. That’s a case where you’ve got that big long lever arm and a fulcrum right near the end of the blade, so it takes very little force on the paddle shaft to splinter the blade. That’s just bad luck when it happens, though a rugged whitewater paddle (heavy) will usually survive that sort of thing, especially if you “take the hint” when you feel the resistance start to build up and avoid prying it any farther.

#11

If I’m paddling fast moving water & the paddle I’m using gets stuck between 2 rocks or under a boulder, and doesn’t easily come loose on the first try; I let go of the paddle. The longer you keep messing with it; the more likely you’ll break the paddle blade or the paddle shaft; then end up swimming through a boulder garden with your boat…after you’ve capsized. Not fun!

That’s why I “always” carry a spare paddle; to quickly replace the one jammed in the rocks,
or jerked from my hands. Also, my spare is usually a “beater” paddle, and if possible I’ll secure my good paddle, and use the “beater” paddling thru rock gardens. I see no point in tearing up a 125-150 dollar paddle in a boulder garden, when I can use a 20 year old Sawyer I bought for 30 bucks, or an old Werner I bought new in 1985.

The only real issues I ever had using a paddle with a bend in the blade was a slight flutter in the blade, if I was sloppy/lazy about blade placement at the start of my power stoke. The other issue was with using an underwater recovery; again the real issue was sloppy/lazy blade placement. User error.
.
BOB

P.S. You should learn to paddle without constantly switching sides. Yeah! Racers do it, but it’s pretty obvious you’re a novice recreational paddler, and not a racer.
Later, after you have gained good skills, and technique; start paddling on your off side occasionly to gain some off side skills, and rest your wrist, arm, and shoulder on your on side.

#12

@thebob.com said:
Also, my spare is usually a “beater” paddle, and if possible I’ll secure my good paddle, and use the “beater” paddling thru rock gardens. I see no point in tearing up a 125-150 dollar paddle in a boulder garden, when I can use a 20 year old Sawyer I bought for 30 bucks, or an old Werner I bought new in 1985.

The only real issues I ever had using a paddle with a bend in the blade was a slight flutter in the blade, if I was sloppy/lazy about blade placement at the start of my power stoke. The other issue was with using an underwater recovery; again the real issue was sloppy/lazy blade placement. User error.

I’ll just add a little to what Bob wrote. I do the same with my spare paddle. My spare is normally more heavy-duty than what I use in obstruction-free water, but another thing I often do is make sure my spare is slightly shorter than what’s best for me, so when I’m in the shallows and the blade doesn’t go in full depth, I don’t end up with my arms quite as awkwardly high. It’s a handy trick when you know you’ll be dealing with a lot of shallow water.

Regarding my earlier bent-shaft comment (that might have been what prompted Bob’s remark on the subject), I only said what I did about them possibly being a bit less strong for pushing end-wise off logs or rocks because the bent profile can’t be as strong as a straight-shaft when loaded that way. But from a practical standpoint, I’m sure it seldom matters.

#13

Thanks. I do carry a backup when going down rivers, just in case. All of my paddles are beat to hell and too long; being garage sale finds. It’s time to get something worthwhile. I like the idea switching off to a shorter paddle in rocky sections. The Bending Branches Java ST looks like a good all-around paddle. The BB “Traveler” is really cheap. Is it even worth looking at? Might it be too skinny with a blade of 6.75" x 19"?

I’d like something with a palm grip, and am considering the following BB offerings. Any thoughts as to which would be “best”?
Traveler: 6.75" x 19", 20 oz, limited length choices, $85
Arrow: 7.5" x 19", 23 oz. , $100
Java ST: 8.1" x 19", 19 oz, $140
Explorer Plus: 8.1" x 19", 23 oz, $120

#14

paddles can and do break but a more likely scenario on fast moving water is simply losing your paddle if you capsize- you learn to hang on to it in most situations but I have to say it’s pretty common for beginners to lose paddles. It seems like kayak paddles are more likely to get wedged between rocks than canoe paddles but I’ve found plenty of canoe paddles as well.
Here’s a paddle that can take some abuse- chucking it up on shore, pushing off of stumps and rocks and such.

http://store.carlislepaddles.com/products/461134/Economy_Canoe_Paddle?pid=f9fb2db298050272e65dfb05c2b5f5c9

They are popular with the livery and rafting crowd for that reason- if you want something even stronger you can get the plastic sheaving all the way up the shaft but that’s probably overkill for your stated purpose.

If your going to take a spare it makes sense to take a beater. All of my paddles are beaters- spares or otherwise. While flex is generally considered a bad thing in a paddle, some flex in the blade actually improves durability.

I’m not saying you shouldn’t get a nice (efficient) paddle but the first thing I look for in a paddle is durability. I want a paddle I can wade into the river with or chuck up over boulders. Other people have other priorities. I tend to be hard on gear, boats etc. so I want something that will hold up- yellow and bright orange are easier to spot thus more functional if your looking for a lost paddle, signaling, or marking a latrine.

#15

I have seen a couple of barrel loads of broken paddles, both shafts and blades. I had the shaft of one Harmony whitewater paddle snap clean in two a foot beneath the grip while getting side-surfed in a hydraulic. Neither the shaft nor the blade was touching anything but I was putting a fair bit of force on it on a low brace. There is no such thing as an unbreakable paddle.

In whitewater, paddle blades most commonly break when the blade gets caught in a rock crevice, or while “rock bracing”. Of course, shafts can break the same way.

For whitewater use most paddlers use pretty big blades with a diameter of 8 inches or greater since it is important sometimes to be able to exert maximum power on a single stroke. Wider blades also provide more support while bracing or rolling. But for all day cruising you might want a smaller blade. I often use the same paddles for cruising Class I water that I use for more serious whitewater, but that is a matter of preference.

I would definitely carry two paddles. You could use something relatively inexpensive as a spare, like an aluminum shaft Carlisle with a plastic blade and a T grip. Any of the paddles you mention would be adequate for touring. The strongest would be the Explorer Plus with its 4 oz fiberglass blade sheath.

#16

OK, great. For now, I think I’ll just get myself a Carlisle. What’s most important is having a paddle of the proper length at this point.

I see that the Carlisle is 30 0z, and 8" wide. If I’m paddling for a while, am I likely to notice a paddle that’s 7-11 oz lighter, and 0.5"-1.25" thinner?

#17

Yes and when you pick up that Carlisle again after paddling with a 19 0z blade you will swear you just picked up a log…

I’d go with a Bending Branches. The Espresso ST I think has another evolution under a different name. Mine has survived numerous trips with it being under 50 lb portage packs… And being used as a cane more than once on some Temagami portages. Its all wood…

#18

The Espresso is now the Java. After further thought, I guess I have to decide if I’m going to get something like the Carlisle as a dedicated river paddle, and then a BB Java with a bent shaft as a flat water paddle. It’s either that, or a straight shaft. Either way, I think that for $20 I’d like to use a Carlisle to beat on in the rivers.

#19

I’ve have a BB Explorer Plus that I have had for years, and it can take plenty of abuse. It’s relatively light and is a good general purpose paddle. One thing that you haven’t mentioned is paddle length. I’m 5’10", kneel most of the time and use a 57" paddle.

#20

Medium weight, wooden straight-shafts(or near straight-shafts) are the best to start out with. Lots of the mass-produced bentshaft paddles possess pretty enormous degrees of angle in their “bent” and are a little tougher in learning one’s strokes.
Bear in mind that FG can be “hard” for some people’s hands over time and wood is definitely warmer in cool/cold conditions.
Use good posture when paddling and in time you’ll be able to judge your favorite weight in a paddle… All the others have given good advice/tips…