Good replies so far…
I have a couple Pungo 140’s and so I have similar concerns. The only thing I would add is that I also use a dry bags to store items in the rear hatch. That way if the rear hatch did pop open, there would still be some displacement and containment of contents.
I was wondering,…
If anyone here has tried to pull themself over the side back into the cockpit, without a paddle float. I’m not trying to be funny, but last year I watched 2 guys get out of their rec kayaks to cool off in the lake, and then grab hold of the combing on the side and pull themseves out of the water. I suspect it takes alot of upper body strength, and maybe only certain rec kayaks wouldn’t just flip over when alot of pressure is placed on the side. And yes, the lake was calm that day so waves weren’t an issue. It might be worth safely practicing different hand holds around the combing just to see if a few boats contribute to this style of rescue. just my 2 cents
Excellent point. What about a tether?
What are your thoughts about a leash or tether between you and the boat? On shorter boats, if you can reach the boat mid-ships then you can reach the cockpit coaming. If you can reach near the bow or stern, then you can more than likely reach the painter or carry handles/loops. Would a tether be a good idea? Perimeter lines would not help if rough seas and wind knocked you out of any boat and the boat started drifting off.
Sorry, just saw the “leash” thread.
Thanks for the info over there bnystrom.
Pungo 140
I too have a Pungo 140. I found that a Voyageur #6 float sack fits the bow perfecyly. I reccomend it. JD
I like mine also
I don’t have a lot of kayaking experience, but I’ve enjoyed my Sundance also. The large cockpit is great for fishing, and my 4-year-old daughter and I can fit in the cockpit together. I like being able to move my legs around too. It is a good small lake and slow river boat.
cost of retrofitting
Just keep an eye on the cost of whatever you’re spending to make it “safer”. At some point, you may be better off just trading in your rec boat for a sea kayak. Or just stick to the shore in your existing one.
Sticking to the shore
Interesting choice of words. All small craft like ours should stick to shore. We aren’t built like the predecsors in the Polynesian islands were (unless we are in an outrigger with sails or an enclosed canoe with sails). The Inuit certainly did not go out of sight of ice or land. The pacific islanders were among the bold few that did this but mostly they could see their destination on the horizon. We today, in our craft are encouraged all the time (and wisely so) to keep land within sight. Island hopping and coastal cruising are the way we enjoy our boats.
Over-the-side self recovery
I’ve got a Pungo140 also. I cannot self recover by just pulling myself over the side and hopping back in, but my wife can in the same boat. Maybe it has to do with being too heavy in the upper body, which is the first part out of the water and needing support from the boat, not the water. Regardless, I can cowboy reenter without a problem, so I don’t worry about it.
Jim
I don’t consider it to be an option…
– Last Updated: Feb-06-04 5:11 PM EST –
...which is why I worded it the way I did. I've seen several broken paddles from people sticking only the blade in the rigging, but none when the shaft was in position. That doesn't mean it can't happen, but it's definitely less likely than with the blade in the rigging.
It's very easy to lose one's balance when doing a paddle float re-entry, especially on anything other than flat water. That can put a lot of strain on the paddle and easily break a blade.
Do what you want with your own gear, but I won't perform or teach paddle float rescues with the blade stuck in the rigging.
An option
If you install painters fore and aft, as Mariner does on their boats, you can use them instead of perimeter lines. They’re not quite as quick to grab, but they’re simpler to install.
Thanks to all!
I greatly appreciate the responses to this post.
While it sounds like I should be able to get back on top of the boat by crawling up on the stern, would it still make sense to have the option of boarding the boat with a paddle float? If so, do I need some bungee rigging for the paddle somewhere behind the cockpit? On my Sundance 12.0, where exactly should I install it? There is some space between the rear coaming and the front of the rear hatch, however it is not flat due to a curved, recessed area molded in as part of the coaming. Would the rigging work here? Also, I have seen pictures of “X” rigging over the rear hatch cover. Would this be better?
Thanks,
Pat
Outfitting Costs
is just as much if not more on my “touring” boats. Seems to me, if one is going to use the boat, it should be outfitted to work better and be safer for whatever the person is intended to use for it. Even if a person only paddles in a pond and can swim to shore on a capsize, the floatation and outfitting will make “swimming” the boat to shore easier. My 2nd boat was a Loon 138. I was out in a pond in the middle of summer when I saw these two folks go over in the middle of the pond in a canoe. Try as they may, they couldn’t get back in the boat. They couldn’t quite empty it either. The canoe had not floation except those little bit of foam in the ends. The two started to swim the canoe to shore. I paddled towards them and asked if they wanted me to tow the boat for them. They said, “no” but, jeeze almighty, the two were wheezing and sputtering with effort. I think they were plain embarassed and declined help out of pride. Anyway, I hung in the area just in case one of them decided to like have a heart attack.
sing
Try recovery
w/ additional float items you install, then decide how difficult it is. If you feel the need for a paddle float then get it. Personally I don’t feel I would use it . It all matters what works for YOU. since you have to recover your boat.
Here’s a bold thought.
First, if you create rear deck rigging on the stern, whether between the cockpit and hatch or over the hatch, you’ll also create a snag hazard for a cowboy re-entry it’s good to have that method in your bag of tricks) with the non-recessed fittings. I’d be worried about gouging yourself up sliding across them. Second, the most stable part of your yak is already the spot btween your cockpit and rear hatch; a paddle float would be better served in front. You’d be hard pressed however to reach the rigging from your seat. That’s a long cockpit! What about rigging bungies on either side of the cockpit at about 2 and 10 o’clock? They can double as Old Town style paddle and/or rod holders too.
Good points, Northman and Longshadow
I agree there’s a good chance I’ll never need the paddle float. However, I am planning to do some cold water paddling, and the experts on this board did a good job of conveying to me the potential dangers involved (on another thread). They explained that our bodies may not act predictably when submerged in cold water. So I guess I’m being extra careful.
Mounting bungees on either side of the cockpit is an interesting idea. I like the thought of them doubling as paddle/fishing rod holders.
Thanks!
Pat