canoe interior paint question

-- Last Updated: Feb-19-16 10:16 PM EST --

Hey so I saw a few threads on here about painting outsides of fiberglass canoe hulls and discussions on gelcoats, marine paints, fiberglass paint, and so on, but i'm more wondering about whats necessary for the inside of a canoe. A lot of the paint has chipped away from the inside and i've scraped a lot off myself, straight down to the bare textured fiberglass. But there are a few spots where the paint is really stuck on there still. I'm thinking about just sanding it down the rest of the way, but something concerns me about sanding down the kind of woven-like fiberglass texture, and overall removing too much fiberglass. I'm not looking to have this thing showroom quality, i'm more worried about durability. I'm gonna be using this thing in brackish rivers too, so salt is a concern for the paint too, but i'm not gonna have it in the water at all times, it's mostly gonna be stored upside down on a trailer. So to sum it up i guess my main questions are how do i deal with the paint thats still really stuck on without screwing up the fiberglass and what kind of paint will be sufficiently strong enough against brackish water and the florida heat?

Paint ? leave it be.

Krylon is commonly used. Wash surface with Meguire’s car wash, scrub rinse so the surface squeaks, dry dry n spray wearing a mask.

Investigate the assumed dry condition. Often with a complex surface water will flow from nowhere during painting causing apoplexy.

Use a light color eg yellow reflecting sun’s heat and your contact lens.

Krylon is available at Walmart

a light
blue ?

Krylon? Really?

Scrub the surface with a green scotch brite pad, wash and get it completely dry, sit it out in the sun. If you have to paint it, use a decent marine grade paint. Look up West Marine online, they are pretty much everywhere.

Yes light colors, not Yellow, geez. White can be glaring in the sun. Beige or tan or light gray is best.

Bill H.

Do exactly as Griffin800 says
Don’t use Krylon. It is el cheapo and will never hold up.

Don’t sand into the fibers.

If you are in Florida there should be a West Marine Store near you.

Get a good grade of marine paint. it will cost big bucks, but will be worth it

Jack L

Ignore it
whatever you use in a few months it will be beat to crap anyway and look like he**.

Ditto West Marine paint
It’s like using the right tool for the right job

Not necessarily true

– Last Updated: Feb-20-16 8:09 AM EST –

My rowboats came from the factory with light-blue paint on the interior. Where the heels of my boots grind against the bottom of the boat, I painted the hull with gray porch enamel. *Eventually* that started to wear, but is easy to touch up.

In canoes, I've painted the area that includes where I kneel and extending back under the seat where my feet are in constant contact with the hull. Again, I used gray porch enamel. After years, there's still hardly a trace of wear.

Not everyone throws a metal cooler on the floor when it's caked with wet sand and then drags it around. Just kidding about that, but personally, I've never seen more than minor wear on interior paint.

I'm not necessarily recommending porch enamel over marine paint, but I will say that a good grade of porch enamel is just amazingly durable.

removing paint
Most makers do not completely fill the weave of the cloth on the interior of their fiberglass canoes with resin. You probably won’t be able to remove all of the paint by sanding without sanding off a lot of 'glass fiber.

Assuming it is necessary to remove all the paint, I would try Citristrip.

Usually, only the paint on the hull bottom becomes significantly abraded. If this is the case with your boat, I would mark off a diamond or oval shaped area of hull bottom to repaint and leave the rest alone. That will save time, money and weight. Many canoe manufacturers painted a gray diamond on their hull bottoms.

And I would probably use a flat, gray porch enamel as Eric suggested. It holds up pretty well and is cheaper than marine polyurethanes. Marine polyurethane tends to be high gloss and will show scratches more easily.

Kolldock uses West’s Urethane

$15 ( ? PLUS PRIMER )


$10 with primer

HD sells an industrial green scrubber from 3M – highly recommended. Generally useful.

Tho I may scrub n wash with distilled water no less the poster said he ahd cleaned paint off surface.

Moeller’s price with West’s overhead tangles with Wal.

WHAT’S IN THE CAN ? vacation home in Bahamas ?

The Rusto….finished repainting van step supports just now…raises an eyeball. Yawl have wandered thru West’s Paint Department on the way to the 650 aisle ? uhuhuhu… for Jackel’s 42’ Morgan.

Thing with paint is paint again before the surface is damaged. Repeat Krylon’s are less….

On doesn’t know what outlay goes down on the other end. For me depends on time/money involved in redoing it.

Krylon on Royalex for hull artwork is doable. Yearly

For an inside paint wearing off are you ahead with a paint costing 2X when the 2X paint wears off 20% slower ? Hard to figure unless you have a bomber paint costing 3X.

To make a point.


Maybe its
because 90% of my canoeing is tripping. My canoes are similar to old pick up trucks.


– Last Updated: Feb-20-16 7:17 PM EST –

enamel flexes with the hull ? porches doahn flex that much unless made from cherry.

with krylon paint every year for a new clean surface
not the same ol ugly grey porch tasteless.

a new clean surface every year. nyah nyah.

assuming the poster is a helpless spastic, advising use of a grinder for removing paint from the canoe hull is not in order.

the forum is sending photos of T Swift's behind. Is this acceptable ?

I agree with the advice to use porch and deck enamel. I did so about five years ago on the inside of a composite canoe and it has held up well. You can spend more money, but I doubt you’ll get a better result.


Flex and Color

– Last Updated: Feb-21-16 10:11 AM EST –

The fact that porch enamel has worked so well ought to eliminate any reason to question whether it will adhere to a flexing hull. In fact, two of my boats are Royalex and one of those two boats flexes far more than any composite hull (the OP's boat is composite). In any case, the mere fact that porches are not very flexible is not a logical reason to doubt that the paint we put on them can flex if need be.

As to color, I'd call that a personal choice and hardly a legitimate basis for for making insulting remarks. Besides, the inside of an unpainted hull has a pretty dull color too, whether it's composite or Royalex. Anyway, I have to think that your suggestion for a new coat of aerosol paint every year would result in a thick, gunky, heavy layer after several years, while one coat of durable paint need never be reapplied, except with a touch-up brush where damaged.

This is what I used

It’s a flat finish so there is little reflection, a neutral color so your boat doesn’t turn into an oven. It’s oil based so it will last a long time being wet, and it wears very well. As with any paint preparation is key. Sand the inside so the tops of the weave are bare, there will still be some paint in the weave, that’s ok your dealing with a thin substrate. Then vacuum out any dust and debris, then wash the inside with OMS, The use a clean rag and do it again. Let it dry thoroughly. Dump some paint into the bottom of the boat and spread it around with a roller, and cut in with a brush were needed. It’s best if you remove what ever you can, seats, thwarts, etc. To refresh just a light sanding and a new coat of paint.

Porch and deck paint is very flexible, but you won’t be able to sand it smooth and repaint if it starts to come up or wear.

Krylon is just a bad idea.

I painted the inside of one
with Rustoleum topside paint from Lowes and it turned out great.

Rusto ‘topside’ paint

use a top side primer ? how many color coats to cover or only one thick coat covers the weave…or was there a weave ?

how often
is the boat interior sanded ? use a disc sander or by hand ? wet sand right ? grit recommendations ?