Both the cane seats on my old tandem canoe have torn. What are the best ways to repair them? I have seen nylon webbing and that doesn’t look too hard, but just wondering about what has worked well for others.
Webbing, cane, or replacement
Some people replace the cane. Apparently it's not a difficult job, though I've heard that a re-caning job done by someone with not much experience is often prone to premature failure. The cane is bought in pre-woven sheets, and instructions on how to install it can be found online.
Installing webbing isn't too hard, but you don't want nylon, as that gets loose when wet. I did a seat that way, and pre-stretched the webbing (pulled on the full length of the material I'd gotten for the job with a car, and left it parked that way overnight) to lessen the chances that it would get looser over time. I used the kind of Vice-Grip pliers having four-inch-wide, flat jaws to grip the end of each strap and pull it tightly into place before fastening it to the wood. Attach all the straps in one direction before weaving in the straps that go at a right angle. The weaving process adds tension to the finished product that's greater than you'd get otherwise.
Most people would just replace the seat. Considering the time you'd spend on repair, that's probably best. Check out Ed's Canoe online. They'll have something that fits. All you'll have to do is trim the free ends of the seat frame, drill a hole in each one, and you are done.
for the advice. I checked out the seats at Ed’s and I’m thinking I could spend the time I would have spent repairing and go canoeing!
I like cane.
So I would probably replace the cane one way or another as mentioned. I find if I store indoors and take care to step on the seat frame, not the cane, it lasts a long time. Another somewhat more durable option is babiche or rawhide. You can get very nice babiche seats from Headwaters Canoes outside of Ottawa. Search the name and you will find their web site. Nice people. They do good work and build very nice wood canvas canoes intended for actual canoe tripping as opposed to admiring on a wall or placid pond.
Trouble with cane
is that the old frame is really difficult to prepare for the application of new cane.
When the cane was originally applied both the cane and the spline that holds it in place were soaked to make them pliable. Then the cane is forced into a groove and held in place with wedges while GLUE is applied and the spline pounded in to hold everything. Getting the GLUED in old spline and cane out of the frame is the hard part. I recently gave up. A friend suggested that the job is made easier with a Dremel tool. I don’t own one.
The good news is that Ed’s canoe parts sells a whole new seat for 30 bucks, while the cane kit costs 15. So, for an extra 30 bucks you get two new caned seats and avoid struggling with the old ones.
Buying a new seat or converting it to a webbed seat is probably the path of least resistance but if you want to recane the seat it can be done.
I bought cane webbing, wedges, and spline from this place:
Most canoe seats seem to use the 1/2 inch webbing. You need to measure the width of the routed groove in your seat frame (after you have cleaned it out) to get the proper diameter spline.
To get the old spline out steam will loosen the glue joint holding in the spline. If you can’t find a way to steam the spline, you can actually pour hot water over it until it is loose. Be aware that steaming or hot water can also loosen the glue joints holding the seat frame together. Most commercial canoe seat frames seem to be joined with double dowel joints. If you loosen a frame joint it is usually easy enough to glue it back together using Titebond or carpenter’s wood glue.
Although I have a Dremel, I have found that the best tool for removing the old spline is a wood chisel with a blade the same width as the routed groove in the seat frame, or a bit narrower still. You may need to use something like a scratch awl or pick to start to lift the spline out of the groove. Take care to avoid injuring the groove too much and resteam or reapply hot water as necessary as you go. You need to get all the old spline and cane material out of the groove before you recane. You probably also want to refinish the seat frame.
Ed’s Discounted Seats
Over the years I've bought a lot of boats and refurbished them. Recently bought the first new one I've bought in years, but the seat placement isn't what I've wanted so off to Ed's I go to see what they have. Bought exactly what I wanted for $20 and shipping. Looking in the little drop down menu in their "Cleaning out the closet" I see several seats less than $20. There's a fancy cherry contoured seat for less than $25. I've got a handful of old seat frames myself and entertain the thought of repairing them. But when I can pick them up from Ed's so reasonably....
Click on the link, then click on "Ash" and it opens up a drop down menu of overstock seats, thwarts, yokes, and hardware.
…Industries is my first choice for cane and webbed seats.
Getting the old out is a snap with a tool designed to remove old spline
Failing that as most of us don’t want to do the job too often and don’t want to invest in another gizmo we’ve had very good luck with hair dryer and dental hygienist pick. An ice pick will do
I like Eds seats but with pre woven cane we got serviceable seats for half the cost of buying new.
And we didn’t have to hassle with measuring. That was important as the canoe was out in a snowstorm
webbing over cane
Not an exciting video…but this worked for me. Stainless steel staples and sat in front of TV…took 20 minutes each for me. I bought two black ratchet straps (Poly not nylon) from Home Depot and cut ends off. I used a soldering iron to cut each strip as I went along.
Seats look great and going strong.
If the $$ doesn’t matter…get one from Ed’s and keep the old ones as spares?
re-caning is not that hard with a spline and a cane supplier. Cane does not last that long in our dry climate. I like the webbed seats. Some of the best are rawhide or snowshoe lacing with varnish.
about applying heat when preparing an old frame for new cane. After reading it I drug out the frames that I had given up on and tried again. I used a heat gun, carefully, and within 10 minutes I had an old stubborn spline out in one piece. A little more heat and most of the old cane came out also. I’ve already got new seats coming so I’ll probably just save these as spares. Should I ever need to do this again I won’t shy away from it.