Does Hullavator attach to factory racks?
@SpaceSputnik said:
Does Hullavator attach to factory racks?
“The Hullavator Pro ONLY works with Thule roof rack systems, and can not be used with a factory rack.”
https://www.rackattack.com/static-content/kayak-racks-information.aspx
@Rookie said:
@SpaceSputnik said:
Does Hullavator attach to factory racks?“The Hullavator Pro ONLY works with Thule roof rack systems, and can not be used with a factory rack.”
https://www.rackattack.com/static-content/kayak-racks-information.aspx
So, need thule bars too…
Certainly sounds like a nice product, but the overall cost brings a question if this money is better invested into a next boat.
@ space sputnik
I have not kayaked without 3rd party bars for 15 years, because factory cross bars are not strong enough to carry two boats. First my husband and l paddling, now space for a second boat for me if a long stay or to go out with a friend. My recollection is there are two of you?
Trusting most factory racks to hold more than one boat is a dandy way to risk emptying your bank account by causing a really nasty accident on the highway. Can get away with it to drive down a local road to a local launch, but after that it gets dicey.
@Celia said:
@ space sputnik
I have not kayaked without 3rd party bars for 15 years, because factory cross bars are not strong enough to carry two boats. First my husband and l paddling, now space for a second boat for me if a long stay or to go out with a friend. My recollection is there are two of you?
Hell will freeze over before my wife becomes interested in watersports 
But seriously, I was specifically commenting on the Hullavator + (thule) bars cost. No problem getting stronger bars if needs be. Thule is not the only game in town for just bars.
Hullivator is expensive, it says something that it took me 3 years of paddling solo and relying solely on the roller loader o break down and get it. And the second boat side will remain not-Hullivator because of cost against need. But a good set of third party cross bars gives you a ton of options, cheaper to fancy. We had Yakima for years and after going to Thule, l have to admit the square bars are much quieter.
How about a pickup with a bed extender, is that generally easier?
@SpaceSputnik said:
@Rookie said:
@SpaceSputnik said:
Does Hullavator attach to factory racks?“The Hullavator Pro ONLY works with Thule roof rack systems, and can not be used with a factory rack.”
https://www.rackattack.com/static-content/kayak-racks-information.aspx
So, need thule bars too…
Certainly sounds like a nice product, but the overall cost brings a question if this money is better invested into a next boat.
For me personally the investment has been worth it. Cheaper than potential medical costs for shoulder/back injuries but more importantly, it takes me about five frustration free minutes to get my kayak loaded and secured. That means I get more paddling time. 
I am also wondering, how far down does Hullivator bring the boat?
There have been many threads about trailers. One of the big advantages to them is that one trailer can be used with different tow rigs, They just need the same hitch ball size as the coupler, and of course wiring so that the trailer has legally-required lights such as brake lights and turn signals.
Our first trailer got towed by at least four vehicles, and the one we have now has been towed by two. Switching over is, basically, no effort. No need to buy new rack hardware every time you replace a vehicle.
@SpaceSputnik said:
I am also wondering, how far down does Hullivator bring the boat?
I drive a Honda FIT. Am 5’5" and only need to lift/unload at waist height. I have to squat to get my hands on the squeeze handles when loading, but that’s no problem at all. The arms extend out far enough so I don’t need to fold my passenger side mirror. I believe Celia drives a Toyota Rav, so she has to lift higher, but I don’t know how high.
Roof rack lift…over your head
Trailer lift… about 3 feet…waist high
From Celia - still about waist height to get it into the arms. I also squat under it to squeeze the handles to start it up. The assist kicks in after just the first few inches though…
@pikabike said:
- No need to buy new rack hardware every time you replace a vehicle.
Not exactly. The most my Yakima racks need is some different Z- clips. They can be reconfigured. My J- hooks fit on factory bars on three vehicles now. The foam blocks on three different vehicles. My truck racks have been on three different trucks and one RV. However it is easier to load the boats on a trailer.
@JohnGoldhurst said:
Hi NicoleThe easiest loading with a Hatchback is to load from the back.
I have a Acura Hatchback and load a 17 foot boat every weekend.
Now here’s the bad news you need saddles not J holders- cradles
and a Boat Roller
I agree. You might be able to ditch the J- hooks and use foam blocks, inexpensive. You could use the cart roller. We have a kayak trip scheduled on Sept 9. Ki is signed up. She is around your size. She uses the roller/cart mod she made to get her boat up on top of a sedan. If she is OK with it, I’ll take pictures an post them in a separate post around the 12th.
@SpaceSputnik said:
I am also wondering, how far down does Hullivator bring the boat?
Hullavator = 41" drop.
Again I’ll mention the Thule Slipstream as an option. Just installed one yesterday on a Kia and it worked wonderfully well in extending past the spoiler when loading and then sliding to the center of the vehicle for transport of a P&H Scorpio MV.
Also, Celia, as to your making mention of the Yakima Showdown, this is from my review of it when I was at a trade show this month (August 17 fb.me/theriverconnection).
For the non-FB;
“Yakima studied the Kari-Tek ELRR a bit and came up with a simplified single kayak loader. Bio mechanically good for vehicle roof heights up to head high but taller vehicles will require doing a military press to lift the loaded swing arm horizontally in line with the bar mount assembly before sliding it home. At $450 it is an alternative to the Thule Hullavator ($650) with a far more user friendly clamping system.”
See you on the water,
Marshall
The Connection, Inc.
Hyde Park, NY
845-228-0595 main
845-242-4731 mobile
Main: www.the-river-connection.com
Store: www.the-river-connection.us
Facebook: fb.me/theriverconnection
Don’t think cheaply about racks if you have a newer car. I slipped, and allowed my big kayak to drop down on my Jeep roof. Even though there were 2 layers of moving pads, 2 large dents and a small sharp dent were created. It is going to cost 1050 bucks to fix everything up. Apparently the jeep roofs are now very soft and use very thin sheet metals.
So I ordered a hullavator, which is now on sale everywhere and even more than 20% off at Amazon (although that could change at any moment)
@Marshall Thanks for the info on the Yakima product. That military press part sounds like it’d have to be tried out for someone,my size to be sure it was ok. And don’t get me wrong about the Thule Slipstream, it solves many issues well. There has been a spate of responses that are about either saving weight or from folks who have not invested in a full rack system to support the product, so my responses have often not given the Slipstream product its due.
Hi all. Original poster here. Some updates. Thule is being great and trying to find a solution for me. Rack Attack where I bout the rails and J racks basically told me I am out of luck.
The Thule slipstream will not extend far anough back from my rear crossbar to clear the top of my spoiler. I love it but it won’t work.
The Hullivator is also awesome but I cannot afford one.
I purchased the Sherpa roller, a step stool and a piece of carpet and can pick as my boat up, but cannot safely (for me or the car) turn the boat to get it into the J rack.
So basically I need to find something that will easily glide the kayak forward (doesn’t foam stick?) I’m not sure what cheap blocks would work with the Thule 480 bars. Haven’t researched because all of this has been a bit exhausting.
My seats also don’t fold flat. Not even close. Transporting inside is not an option.
I can’t move my rail back further either.
Trying but nothing successful yet.
