Car Trailer Advice

I am looking for a trailer for 1-2 kayaks to tow behind a Subaru Forester. I read the Rack and Roll have not held up well. I am looking at a Trailex or a Magneta. Has anyone used these, own one or know of anyone that has?



Get a used 4x8 or 4x10 then modify it to fit your needs. This way it can double as a boat trailer and a utility trailer. The forester is rated to tow 2500 lbs. The utility trailers are a bit heavier but they will ride better and they cost a whole bunch less.

If you decide to sell, the trailer will be easier to sell as well. Just my 2 cents.

Trailex = Excellent!
Extruded aircraft aluminum = no rust or painting!

SUT-200-S or SUT-250-M2 come in a couple of boxes ala UPS. About 2 hours to assemble first time around.

The 250-M2 has a leaf spring suspension so if you’re travelling a-ways that suspension rides smoother on the highway. If it’s local then the 200-S bushing style is great.

Hope this helps.

Still have a 200-S in boxes that I really should put together one of these days.

See you on the water,


The River Connection, Inc.

Hyde Park, NY

Trailer Advice
Thanks guys…

I will look into both. I found a 4x8 foldup utility trailer from Harbor Freight for $310… so maybe a good option.

state laws
Make sure you can easily register a Harbor Freight put together trailer. In PA it’s a real pain. Light aluminum would be a better investment.

Aluminum is great for weight if you
buy what you want, but finding someone to weld aluminum is another matter.

For customizing, go with the Harbor Freight.


Trailer Advice
Registering a trailer: I would have not thought that to be an issue based on the type/manufacturer. What problems does the Harbor Freight cause for registering?

Aluminum: I was looking into the Harbor Freight option as one reply advised that a heavier trailer is better for longer trips. I am planning on using this for any trips outside my local area of more than 30 minutes or more. More likely 2hrs out.

I like the looks and the weight of the Trailex, ride is most important. If I were to go w/ a utility trailer- I would purchase cross bars from Thule and then get attachments for whatever, though I really don’t plan on using the trailer for anything else, but is nice to have as an option…

thanks for the help



– Last Updated: Jul-05-08 11:53 AM EST –

Get the boat trailer from Northern Tool or Harbor Freight and then get some uprights and crossbars from Magenta to make a 1-4 place trailer. Too narrow of a wheel base to go with more than 4.

I just assembled a sports rig trailer this morning. It took me less than two hours and appears to be well-designed.

One feature that I love is that I can stand it up on the end and get it out of the way. I got the extended tongue so I have to remove that - two bolts - simple to remove.

It’s not aluminum but I don’t live on the coast. Nothing rusts in AZ anyways - for the most part. The wheels are now cast instead of spoked.

Delivery took a little coordination - I was on a trip when they had it ready to go and were happy to hold it for a few weeks so it wouldn’t sit outside of the house.

I used a lighting kit designed for our Camry which was fairly simple to install. Simply unplug the t-connections on each side behind the molding and insert the wiring harness in-between and connect them back. I had to run a 12-v wire to the battery for the controller. That’s always a pain but it means you’re using the existing wiring to power a relay with the power for the trailer lights coming from the 12-v wire - not the existing harness.

Everything including the hitch installation went fairly well and the lighting worked the first time to boot.

Rack and Roll
Just a note on the premise of your question: I paddle w/three different families who use the Rack and Roll trailers (and two use them very hard over many, many miles) and the trailers have all been bullet proof. Perhaps (and this is total conjecture) the problems you have read about began w/assembly as opposed to the product itself. These three were all assembled at the dealer (Rutabaga, in this case) and that could make a difference. Most of the Harbor Freight-based trailers around here look to have stock suspensions, and I personally couldn’t see the point of subjecting a nice boat to that type of abuse. Great luck.

Probably it’s because of this

Certainly, it’s dependent on the load and usage as to whether this actually becomes a problem.


Looks like they want you to put a steel insert into an aluminum tube. Combine that with salt water and it sounds like a bad combination. Any metallurgists care to comment?


Grease it
I am not a metallurgist, but from my hardcore cycling days I know of a process in which salt water (sweat in this case) entering a joint between dissimilar metals will bind the two metals together permanently. I was one of many people who got the dreaded frozen headset (aluminum alloy bar stem in a steel headset).

Prevention is very simple: grease the stem before inserting into the steel.

MaloneDownEaster Micro Trailers
Anyone have any experience with these trailers? I think Malone is a good name, but haven’t heard anything about these trailers.

Nice to know the preventative measure is so damn simple.

You can use a compound that is made
for electrical wires. The power companies use aluminum wire so you have to coat it before you wire them into your power box. You can find it at any electrical department and it’s not expensive.

Hi yellowdog
I don’t know where you heard that Rack N Roll trailers don’t hold up? I have had a Rack N Roll trailer for several years. I put 78 inch bars on it, the tongue extension, two Mako Saddles and two Hull Raisers. I carry four boats. My trailer still looks new. I’ve probably pulled it over 25,000 miles at interstate speeds and I mostly paddle in salt water.

My trailer has held up great. Once over sticker shock, I believe it was a great purchase and I am glad I did it. I just wish my boats would hold up as well as my Rack N Roll.

Good luck finding the right trailer.


Tractor Suppy or Lowes
Both of the above stores carry reasonable priced new utility trailers. a 5x7 at Tractor Suppy was $479. I modified it for use as a utility and kayak carrier. modifications cost approximately $150 using would and PVC.