Cockpit coaming on 2012 Boreal Designs Baffin C1

I just bought a used Baffin C1 and found that the coaming was loose in the rear and sides. I could push it down and move the coaming. So, I used Marine epoxy to reseal it, putting some neatly on the bare fiberglass inside the coaming and, once that was dry, slathering more epoxy from the outside to seal the area. So far, so good and I have been on several paddles on my lake. I wasn’t upset by the needed repair, as I bought the boat for a truly astounding $600. When I examined the coaming before the repair, it simply appeared to have been only very sparsely glued. So, my question is, is this an issue I can now ignore now that it’s epoxyed or is this problematic for my (or any) fiberglass boat? Thanks!

Epoxy that is exposed to UV (sun) light will need to have something over it to protect it unless whatever you used is UV stabilized. Paint and gelcoat are the go-to products here.

As for mechanical bond, that really depends on how the repair was done. Epoxys are not created equal, and just slathering some on isn’t the way it works best. It’s intended to be used in combination with a fiberous material (like fiberglass) to make a composite structure. The two materials work together to create the strength. All of this said, if it’s just a small gap between the two parts it’s likely your repair will hold just fine.

Thanks, Sparky. I’m also a bit worried about how well the repair was done! The two sides were clean, no glue or resin to speak of on them. I really think the area was missed in the building of the boat. I cleaned the area with acetone and worked the epoxy in the best I could, by turning and/or elevating the area. I have thought of paint, but the epoxy is well hidden by the coaming. I’ll probably paint it later, just to hide my fix. I decided against fiberglass because there wasn’t any in the area already, so I assumed it wasn’t needed. The gap was very small, not a gap at all as the coaming and the deck were touching. And, the front and forward sides were still connected.

If the gap was so small that the epoxy didn’t penetrate through, your repair will just be a small epoxy fillet between the two pieces. This would not give much strength and would be better repaired by building up a layer or two of glass into the corner.

Of course, I’m making some assumptions not having any pictures to go from.

I can attest tp the strength of at least some epoxy that is on the market (Locktite). One of our bathrooms has a spa tub that I think is made out of ABS plastic. Over the years, some small cracks developed in the bottom of the tub. It didn’t leak, because it has a double bottom, but I didn’t like the cracks, so I decided to fix it. After cleaning, sanding and wiping with acetone, I applied the epoxy and used pressure on the cracks to allow the epoxy to penetrate. This repair has lasted for several years and it has to withstand heating and cooling and the weight of me in the tub. My intention was to eventually apply a fiberglass cloth, but it has held so well that I just let it slide. One of these days I might get a round toit.

Sparky, I was able to get the epoxy between the coaming and the hull. I pulled the two apart, carefully applied the epoxy, and put them together. As I said, the front and partial sides were still secured. After that dried, I then went back and slathered the epoxy all along the exterior. I’ve read all I could about the Baffin and no one ever mentioned any QC issues. Thanks, Magooch, for the encouraging word. I used Locktite Marine Epoxy, too. I’ll use cloth and resin if this fails.