cockpit combing size and location?

I’m 6’-3", 215lbs, size 12 feet and I test paddled a WS Zephyr 160 some time back. My feet were cramped and I couldn’t get my shins past the cockpit combing while seated. Also the little footrest knobs irritated my feet.



I moved the seat back two inches and replaced the footrests. That mod transformed the Z into an awesome boat for me. The new seat position doesn’t seem to hinder my lay back and I haven’t yet noticed paddling issues.



My questions, what’s the criteria for placing the cockpit opening in relation to the seat location? and Why does WS provide the small, dome-shaped footrest in stead of one with a larger, more comfortable surface?



Thanks?

Neutral balance point

– Last Updated: Jul-06-12 3:31 PM EST –

Boat designing software places the seat in the center balance point considering the weight of the legs for the average person the boat is designed for. Obviously there a lot of variables there. That's center balance point and not always the physical center. Usually designers want a good 4+ inches or more space from the back band to the back coaming so it is not jabbing you in the back if you lean back a bit. (Not rolling) Cockpits have become standardized and the fact that you can't pull your knees under the coaming is not unusual since you're tall.

Sounds like you solved the problems. I don't know about the foot pegs you describe. I can't use foot pegs in any old Valley boats and have to use the bulkhead. I guess nobody was 6'2' in England. I ordered a P&H Serius years back and had them move the bulkhead forward 5 inches. After that, they kept that distance for all the boats.

Thanks.
I’ve been trying to find a playful plastic long boat for when I’ll be scraping bottom on the low flow rivers. The Tsunami 145 was my solution until I moved the seat in the Zephyr. I hope I haven’t compromised the performance of the Z by relocating the seat.


Replace footpegs with foam blocks
I can’t stand using foot pegs - they all hurt my feet after a while. Get minicell foam, or insulation, and shape it to the inside of your hull. You can move the foot pegs back to hold in the top block or cut two thinner ones and stick the dratted foot pegs between them. Stretchy velcro strap from a local craft store around it, to make sure you can easily pull it out.