Well, that sucks. First I would ask how the boat sustained this damage? If it was the result of a very forceful impact, such as dropping it from a height onto concrete on its stem, or wacking the stem hard on a rock going over a ledge, then I would go ahead and repair it. If the damage resulted from an impact that seemed to be less substantial, I would question whether or not the Royalex had deteriorated. In that event, I might go ahead and repair it anyway, keeping in mind that the boat might be prone to more damage in the future.
The good news is that the damage has occurred out toward the stem where the canoe is structurally strongest as a result of its convex form and the gunwales being close together. Almost any type of force sufficient to damage the canoe in this area is going to be a force that compresses the outer part of the hull and puts the inner part of the hull under tension. Therefore, I would consider the interior portion of the repair to be more important than the exterior, which is also good because it will show less.
Based on the photos, I expect my plan would be to repair all interior cracks with two layers of aramid such as Kevlar cloth, applied with the lines of the weave at a bias with the line of the cracks. Aramid is extremely strong in tension, not nearly so strong in compression, but there will be virtually no compressive force applied in that location. I would probably plan to repair the outside with a single layer of 6 ounce/square yard S fiberglass, again cut on a bias to the line of the cracks. I usually try to make patches overlap the undamaged portion of the hull by 2 inches, but if the cracks extend to the existing abrasion plate or into it, I would probably simply butt the end of the external patches up to the side of the abrasion plate, then thicken the existing abrasion plate with another layer of cloth. I would probably use S fiberglass for that purpose as it is a bit stronger than Dynel. But that plan would be subject to modification based on what I saw when I removed the vinyl over and around the cracks.
I would definitely gutter out the cracks on both the inside and the outside, then fill them in with G Flex thickened a bit with silica powder. Overfill the cracks slightly, then sand smooth.