I have a soft top 2dr jeep so I don’t currently have options for a roof rack. I’ll probably end up buying a cargo cage, but that will have to wait until funds come available.
In the mean time I have a 5x8 utility trailer I’ve been using to transport 3 yaks. A Jackson rogue (9’4"), OT Sport Stoker (9’6" i think, basically an Old Town Otter) and a Jackson Hero (7’4").
I mounted (2) 1 5/8" pieces of galvanized pipe across the top of the trailer about 4’ apart to rest my kayaks on. I also used foam pipe insulation to help with slipping and to cushion the kayaks some.
Using cam straps I’m able to secure the Stoker and Rogue to the top bars and I strap the Hero underneath since it’s short.
The problem I’m having is that the boats strapped to the cross bars will dent if left on the trailer for more than a few hours. Is this normal? Would moving the bars closer together help prevent this? Should I put the yaks on their side instead right side up or upside down?
Thanks in advance.
You need padding on your crossbars
some sort of foam, like big diameter pool noodles. Can wrap with vetwrap. Foam also creates more friction/stickiness without scratching. To keep your kayaks on your trailer, you also can tie down the fronts and backs. There is a fine line between “too much” and “not enough force” with straps sometimes.
This is typical in warm weather with thinner newish plastic boats that are not like the really heavy older ones some of us have.
If you have the yaks just sitting on the trailer for a lunch stop in the sun, loosen the straps just a bit when not in transport. If you are afraid you will forget to retighten, wrap a strap around your steering wheel so you can’t drive off without noticing. Don’t crank 'em until you are ready to roll.
Jeeps are pretty short wheelbase for a trailer, so be careful the tail doesn’t start wagging the dog in a crosswind…
I’ll try adding
some additional padding.
Is this typical of newer kayaks? Can I expect similar results with J-racks or cradles?
Without any pics I’d say go with the
standard hull-bottom-side up…and use the widest straps you can find…or multiple rope windings, not overly tight…
wood
There’s a lot of this not going around….
No, use wood held down with angle or joist hanger strapping drill tap bolted to the trailer.
Atop wood cross members sit:
https://www.google.com/#q=riverside+foam+kayak+blocks&tbm=shop
Online stores are running short of blocks. A Google Image search for straps yields all types of configuration adaptable to various trailer carries.
Hold foam and yak down with cam straps running thru and around member and eyebolts in member.
At the foam blocks screw nail a clear 1x6 at cross members’ forward side in the blocks length. The 1x is a brake for stopping yak when braking vehicle.
Try pressing in on the yak’s sides and then on yak bottom where the cross members would be…which yak form is the strongest ? A large difference suggest mounting from that area either horizontally on bottom or vertically from yak side.
A pipe has way too small a contact area for relieving yak weight pressure either in transit or in situ.
How much floor pressure is placed on 6 sofa legs held down with 5 fat people ?
on the 1x6…
an inch plus is enough above the member surface for holding block from forward movement. Check yak-1x clearance after cam strapping and foam wear compression.