Current wooden Greenland paddle makers

I understand that Bill Bremmer isn’t making Lumpy paddles. It seems Tuktu paddles isn’t taking orders. I can chop down a tree, or go to the lumberyard, but let’s consider that an entirely different subject. For this post, I’m wondering who best to go to today to order a couple of Greenland paddles that would be considered well-made of an appropriate light weight.
On sizing, the overall gist I’ve come away with thus far is that there’s a lot of personal preference spanning across some general guidelines. For the general guidelines, using a measured to shoulder height from seated position method, and an armspan plus elbow to fingertip method, and just the stand and reach up method, 89" is where I fall. Any suggestions here?
For loom width, relaxed arms by my side raised up generates quite different results on different days or even moments - anywhere from 17 to 22". I did think, a few miles into a paddle when it occurred to me during a normal forward stroke, to check my hand placement by resting the paddle across my Caribou deck. My thumbs were both just a bit outside of the edges of the deck. Not sure if that’s a product of the kayak, or if shoulder width plays a roll, or if that all just depends. But that suggested comfort, in that kayak with that paddle with that current with that wind in that moment on that day, with a loom width of around 21".
I don’t have a skin-on-frame, so an Arctic Hawk, Caribou, and Greenlander are probably as close as I get.
Is there any sort of agreed general wisdom among forum members for loom width?

I’ve heard good things about Beale Paddles.

A good paddle maker will ask for certain measurements before deciding on length, blade width, etc. At least that’s what Bill did before carving my Lumpy.

Here’s the Qajaq list of commercial makers:

As @roym is our resident Greenland expert, maybe he’ll share his wisdom.

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Here is a GP dimension poll of some Qajaq/USA members back about 15 years plus years ago. But, the different lengths and sizes may give you some helpful hints.

For me I carved about 4 paddles with distinct shoulders, thinking it would help with indexing. I modified the last one to be shoulderless and found this to be way more useful. The loom length could be more approximate and the indexing is still available by the feel of the shape of the blade for rolling.

I bought a gearlab shoulderless GP last year, concerned more about the preferred length then anything with the loom length (given the cost of this paddle). No worry now. Love that paddle.


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I can vouch for Don Beale as an excellent mentor for paddle making. I carved mine under his direction (and with wood he selected and roughed in) at 2015 Qajaq TC.

Chuck Smith of Aluu paddles (S. E. Michigan) also makes some very nice paddles. I can get you in touch if you are interested.


I have a Western Red Cedar GP paddle made by Ben Fontenot, who was living and working down here in Savannah during the summer but the last I heard he moved north to paddle the Great Lakes.

Unfortunately my paddle building class with him was canceled earlier this year so I bought one - in the size he recommended for me after a nice chat - at the kayak shop in Savannah.

His paddles are lightweight, with fine edges, clean lines and beautifully carved. He offers lots of options for loom shoulders, paddle tip shapes, finishes, etc.

I’ve paddled with one of Don Beale’s western red cedar Greenland paddles for more than a year. Love it. I found him knowledgeable, experienced and accommodating to my individual needs.

Thank you everyone.
I spoke to Don Beale and he took an order for us. We’ll see where this leads us.
I’m sure it will be fun.

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