I have a QCC700 with fiber glass and plastic hatch covers. The top part of the cover is glass and the inside is some sort of plastic. There is a hollow between th two pieces. Water leaks in between the two pieces so I get water inside the hatch cover it’s self. It takes a long time to get the water out. I’m sure it remains damp in there long after the water drips out. QCC says to re-seel the edges with silicone.
My question is if I re-seel the edges and it’s still damp in there will the top glass cover "rot’, “soften”, or anything else? Would it be a good idea to re-seel the edges and drill some vent holes in the underside part of the cover?
Thanks – Bill
I would set the cover out in a nice hot
– Last Updated: Mar-22-06 10:46 AM EST –
sun for several hours with the parts spaces away from each other to allow maximum air circulation. Of course this is after thoroughly cleaning the parts where the sealant is to be applied. After sure everything is good and dry follow the manufactures instructions to seal it. Shouldn't need holes after that as no more moisture should get into the now sealed area.
If you do not get it dry the glass will not "rot" or "soften",but it probably will grow a bunch of nasty black stuff! I think most yakers store their boats with the covers off so everyting that will can dry thoroughly. I had net covers for my boat's openings, including the cockpit, so everything could dry, but the critters could not make it into home sweet home.
>:^)
Mick
That’s good advice but…
but I can’t seperate the two halves of the cover. They are very securily glued together. The problem is they weren’t glued together very good. They missed “seeling” it completely. The two halves cannot be seperated with out wrecking them. This dosen’t have anything to do with storing the boat with the covers on or off. This is why I am wondering about the vent holes.
Just bake it well and seal it then.
Do this whan the humidity in low for the best job. If you do not want to wait for the sun, rig the cover(s) near the top of a container with a 100w light bulb or two in the bottom for a few days. That will drive out all the moisture.
Drilling holes will not do much good and can cause real problems. Listen to the maker, especially if still under warranty.
Mick
Just Call QCC…
They should send you new ones…
Assuming QCC used a resin which
does not undergo hydrolysis, then the moisture is not going to harm the fiberglass. However, you should talk to the company.
I like the light bulb
to warm the cover, but if you just leave it out in the open (or near your furnace) for a week it will dry out. You could weigh it now and see when it stops getting lighter to know it is dry.
The other option is if your oven is gas it has a pilot light that slightly warms the oven, put it in the oven for a day or two (put a big sign on the door so someone does not use it).
minor issue -easy fix
Mine did that too. I only noticed when I was washing it off once (when I used to do that!) and noticed the water around the compass recess going down. Took of the hatch cover and noticed some water between layers.
I’d forgotten about it until this post.
Not sure which hatches you have -since the newer ones are different from mine, but either way it should only take a few minutes to seal. Pure silicone caulk or Marine Goop. If you have the compass, put a dab on the nuts on the underside of the hatch (on the bulge) too.
Unless you’re paddling rough or rolling every day the water should dry out fine. Take them off and shake them out, then leave them to dry for a few days before sealing if you’re really concerned.
Why screw around
With light bulbs and pilot lights???
“QCC Kayaks warrantees its kayaks to be free from defects of materials and workmanship for as long as you own your QCC Kayak. If at anytime while you own your QCC Kayak it should be found to be defective due to defective materials or poor workmanship QCC will repair or replace your kayak at QCC’s option.”
Why go through the trouble
of a warranty claim when it is something that can be easily fixed in a couple of minutes?
Hard to call it a defect
It doesn’t rally affect hatch integrity or life/performance of the boat. The inner piece is largely cosmetic to give a nice finished interior to the hatch covers - and easier to attach seals cleanly. It needs to be well attached, but the edges don’t need to be sealed. There might actually be good reasons just to leave them alone so they can breath.
A minor annoyance to some - with a VERY quick easy way to deal with it for those few who will even want to.
If owners want to waste QCCs time - bug them to put decent backbands in the 600/700 and leave those sling seats for the lower performance offerings. Or how about a better skeg control (or any number of other things I just went ahead and tweaked myself).
Personally, I’d call and push for a new deck design (or complete new design for open water/roller) that allows full laybacks - but don’t feel like pushing sand uphill. I get enough of that at work.
What I’d really like is to see them license the Njord, add VCP or KayakSport hatches (recessed), keep the ocean cockpit, offer custom bulkhead placement, and call it the QXP or something. Well, I can dream can’t I? At least I’m specific.
http://www.thomassondesign.com/edoc/enjord.php
Why QCC for this? Quality (and as shown in grey it reminds me of my grey 700 a bit).
Wonder how much to have them tool up and build for another company (like they used to do for Swift)? I have a few designs kicking around in my head and have to start allocating my future LOTTO winnings! L
I had the same problem, and they…
sent me a new hatch, (free) - Problem solved!
When I originally bought the boat three years ago. Both compartments leaked, and they worked with me on three different occasions plus the one above until my problems were solved
I like QCC, I like my boat, I like the hatch system, I like my great big back one.
I doubt that there is another kayak maker that will give you the continued support that they give you.
Cheers,
JackL