I've read a lot of the archived and recent postings regarding a dry suit vs. a dry top and some form of bottoms. Whether a set of bibs or pants. It seems the consensus is that a dry suit is really a better way to go all around. The thing that seams to keep folks from going that route is the cost.
Am I correct?
has to be a bib and a double skirted
– Last Updated: Sep-17-04 3:02 PM EST –
top to even make it comparable.
A dry top and bib can only seal to eachother in that configuration.
A dry top and pants unmated to eachother are not dry so that cofiguration is not comparable to a dry suit.
if you go breathable for the pants the cost difference is pretty low. If you go the non-breathable route your legs will sweat a lot. Everybody I know who has gone that route has done so because of wanting to spend low dollars.
This advice is given from the perspective of a sea kayaker.
Its also harder to get into.
Cost is lower, but the combo is a PITA to get on and sealed properly around the waist. It is much easier to get in and out of a drysuit. When sealed properly the two piece worked OK, but not as well as a drysuit.
My breathable top/non-breathable nylon bib combo when purchased cost about $280. I still really like my bomber gear drytop but couldn’t sell the bibs fast enough once I purchased a breathable drysuit. It was hard to tell leakage from sweat with the non-breathable bibs and I would not recommend them if you sweat at all.
Dry tops & Bibs
Hi, I agree with what Peter had to say about the two pieces and how they had to be compatable which means a double skirted dry top and a bib with a skirted area too. I’ve got a NRS Revolution dry top that rolls togather with a Kokatat Whirlpool bib and makes a seal which has withstood many hard swims and has not leaked, these have been WW class III & IV swims in winter weather. However, even though I was recirculated several times and windowshaded seveal times I was out of the water within 3 to 4 minuets. I don’t know how a longer period of time would affect the seal, even a very slow leak could be very dangerous in a big water situation ((Ocean, Great Lakes,etc.) I don’t mind the Whirlpool bibs not being breathable as I don’t overheat from the waist down even though my fleece collects a lot of moisture, the dry top is breathable and I stay comfortable. Now to the quick. I’d rather have a one piece dry suit. It is very,very awkward and time comsuming even to go pee with a two piece outfit and if you lose the bib straps you have to take the top all the way off to retrieve them, a one piece with a relief zipper would be miles ahead in this department. Also, It is vey difficult to get out of gasketed ankles when you are tired or don’t have a good place to change, a one piece suit with booties would be so much faster to change into and out of. I thought the versatility of the two pieces would be an advantage too but I’ve only wore the heavy top by itself once in the last two years. I do a lot of winter paddling here in KY and look forward to a one piece with a zipper and booties when I’ve got the money to spend. Hopes this helps. Jim
Dry tops & Bibs
Hi, I agree with what Peter had to say about the two pieces and how they had to be compatable which means a double skirted dry top and a bib with a skirted area too. I’ve got a NRS Revolution dry top that rolls togather with a Kokatat Whirlpool bib and makes a seal which has withstood many hard swims and has not leaked, these have been WW class III & IV swims in winter weather. However, even though I was recirculated several times and windowshaded seveal times I was out of the water within 3 to 4 minuets. I don’t know how a longer period of time would affect the seal, even a very slow leak could be very dangerous in a big water situation ((Ocean, Great Lakes,etc.) I don’t mind the Whirlpool bibs not being breathable as I don’t overheat from the waist down even though my fleece collects a lot of moisture, the dry top is breathable and I stay comfortable. Now to the quick. I’d rather have a one piece dry suit. It is very,very awkward and time comsuming even to go pee with a two piece outfit and if you lose the bib straps you have to take the top all the way off to retrieve them, a one piece with a relief zipper would be miles ahead in this department. Also, It is vey difficult to get out of gasketed ankles when you are tired or don’t have a good place to change, a one piece suit with booties would be so much faster to change into and out of. I thought the versatility of the two pieces would be an advantage too but I’ve only wore the heavy top by itself once in the last two years. I do a lot of winter paddling here in KY and look forward to a one piece with a zipper and booties when I’ve got the money to spend. Hopes this helps. Jim
Go directly to drysuit
This is advice that I did not take, also because of the high upfront cost of buying a Gore-tex drysuit.
I thought a nonbreathable drypant would suffice, along with a Gore-tex drytop (combined cost of $435 vs. $700 for Gore-tex drysuit). Well, the nonbreathable pants resulted in my longjohns being as soaked (mostly from sweat) as if I had gone swimming. Yet the two pieces leaked at the waist. The drypants had a lousy thin bungie-toggle to cinch it, which just did not seal well even with the wide, hefty Velcro drytop band helping it. I always got some leakage–sometimes only a trickle, other times literally enough to make my pant legs turn into heavy water balloons.
In a nutshell: if you paddle in very cold water, go directly to a drysuit. If you sweat even moderately, make it a Gore-tex drysuit.