Mike Hynson, one of the two protagonists, of the classic surf documentary/movie, “Endless Summer”, recently passed. Hynson, a long with his fellow surfing buddy and traveler, Robert August (Wingnut), inspired the dreams of many surfers of going on “surfari” in search of that perfect unridden wave.
Hynson is carving up that perfect, peeling point break wave on the other side:
-sing
We were in the scene in the 1960s. Surfing was a passion. I did a trip to California for the summer in 1969 to surf riding out in a 1957 Chevy on Route 66. We had tons of fun. By 1972 I had moved to California for good from the East Coast. Jobs took me all over the place. I continued to boogey board until about age 50 something. Now I live in Nevada and run rivers instead.
Bruce Brown made some good films. Very inspirational for young people. I hope young people today can be similarly inspired.
I love that film, the hoaky sound track always cheers me up.
I’m getting to the age that every time I hear news about an old friend, it’s not good. In the last few months my seventh grade locker partner died of a stroke, my high school debate partner ( we took 3rd place at the state tournament when we were seniors) died of gliablastoma, a professor I was a teaching assistant for 3 years at the University of Michigan died of respiratory failure, and a guitar teacher and music store owner who hired me as a guitar teacher when I was in high school and a member of his band for three years before I went overseas, died from a botched surgical procedure. Sorry for the cheery post, but missing a lot of my heroes from younger days.
It is true, but their is also the opportunity to make new friends to ease the loss.
Having come this far, we are of the age where time and life are peeling away around us. It’s a reminder to not take life for granted. Mourn, but also appreciate and celebrate those who were/are important in our life. Our time is limited. Try not to squander. Try to live fully.
My older sister (who took care of me and was a “hero” to me) just passed last spring. One of my early and primary martial arts instructor of over 50 years just passed last month. Both had the opportunity to look straight at their impending deaths and met it head on, without fear but with appreciation for what they had.
I am reminded of what Carlos Castenada wrote of “Death” in his book, Journey to Ixlan:
“A warrior has the obligation to go back to that place of his predilection every time he taps power in order to store it there. He either goes there by means of walking or by means of dreaming.”
“And finally, one day when his time on earth is up and he feels the tap of his death on his left shoulder, his spirit, which is always ready, flies to the place of his predilection and there the warrior dances to his death.”
“Every warrior has a specific form, a specific posture of power, which he develops throughout his life. It is a sort of dance. A movement that he does under the influence of his personal power.”
“If a dying warrior has limited power, his dance is short; if his power is grandiose, his dance is magnificent. But regardless of whether his power is small or magnificent, death must stop to witness his last stand on earth. Death cannot overtake the warrior who is recounting the toil of his life for the last time until he has finished his dance.”
I suspect Hynson did a heck of a last dance. I am working on mine.
Let’s bid each other Auld Lang Syne.
-sing
I have always like the old surf music. During Covid I listened to it a lot. Now there are plenty of under ground music groups playing new music in the old style. I really like the Mermen, Torkays and the Surfragettes.
I remember that passage from the book. I think it was my favorite book in the series of books he wrote. I loved the adventure of the “Endless Summer”.
A lot of us grew up where death is rarely talked about (as if death would go away if we ignore it). So, we actually become avoidant and fearful of the what is really the other “half” of life. Life and death exist as a duality.
Castenada’s books are interesting (and somewhat fantastical for the “western mind”). But, but his notion that “Death sits on our left shoulder, always…” readily reminding us to live intentionally and impeccably has been helpful in shifting my mindset. I don’t seek death but I don’t fear it. Our appointment in the future will come. 'Til then I am enjoying/appreciating as much as possible.
Mahalo!
-sing
Yes, you are right about how our present culture that is so often driven by trying to stay young avoids thoughts of death. I too took the idea that death is an advisor, ever present and just a fine line between it and life as if it is just over your left shoulder.
As a hunter and fisher, the cycle of life and death, and death sustaining life was made clearly apparent. I think the culture of youth is a denial of this import fact of nature. That we live because death provides for life. Those cultures that live closer to nature have a better understanding of this than many of us living in modern human made environments that removes us from the daily reality of nature’s way.
Unless you live in California.
Uh What ???
The man said our daily reality in modern society removes us from nature’s cycle of life and death, not in California thanks to the total mismanagement of natural resources the people stare death and destruction in the face every wildfire season. EG, the latest disaster.
mjac,
Please describe your management strategy for So Cal.
I thought we were talking about surfing.
Indeed and this segment of the discussion by @castoff evolved into the role of death in nature’s cycle of life, I did not bring it up, @castoff did, read his post, it is very easy to find, it is 5 posts up. As a matter of fact the whole thread was not about “surfing,” but the the passing of a significant figure in the surfing culture, Mike Hinson.
As for management strategy for So Cal, it is called a “ Firebreak.” Need more?
Actually, my response was in agreement to what Sing, posted one post above mine. He was also the one who started this topic.
Although this is off topic I have a question. How wide of a firebreak do you need to deal with hurricane force winds when there is dry brush everywhere and you can’t backfire to contain?
Yes, I had forgotten about @sing ‘s post, but you were the one that brought up the concept that modern life removes us from considering the cycle of life and death because it removes ourselves from it.
The Firebreaks of the 70s and 80s along with other forest management practices were effective.
There will be folks to contest everything. I happen to agree with your statement about “modern society” affording folks the “distance” to not recognize the obvious. So, as fisherman and a hunter, I’ve often have been asked how I feel by my co-workers and friends about “killing” fish or animals as a hunter/fisher. In turn, I would ask them, “Do you eat fish or meat?” Most would say, “Yes…” Definitely a dissonance at play. Although getting better, the medical establishment is not good in helping folks address impending death. Often folks are offered opportunities to “extend life (and suffering)” rather than advice on how to meditate pain and to make the best use of one’s remaining time. I’ve seen this play out with my own family members.
-sing
There was no contesting, I was just confused by who started the discussion.
I was going to try and say something along those lines. I’m curious enough that part of me looks forward to it in an anticipatory way. Also I guess I am fairly religious and that helps.
