Raftergirll, Hobie Revolutions come with little “T” shaped cleats about an inch long around the rear cargo area which the zig-zag bungie cord hooks over. The cleats screw into sockets in the hull. This looked like a real insecure system, so on my Revolution I removed the bungie cord and replaced the little cleats with little loops or padeyes available from Hobie which screw into the sockets. I use nylon straps and mini-carabiners to strap gear into the Revolution’s rear cargo area, which is a lot more secure than a bungie cord, but not as nice as the “possum strap” on your Necky. I don’t know if you can do anything similar on your Eddyline.
I would not drill the eddyline without asking them if it will take the load.
Yes, I’d rather not drill any holes if it’s not needed. Although I might want to add a Railblaza Star Base at one of those round spots to the left & right behind the seat. Those spots are designed for rod holders that come standard on the Angler model. I have some other Railblaza accessories, like a safety flag that I would use on larger lakes like Lake Powell. Still deciding about that. I would have have inside access to add a washer for extra security to those spots.
I bought some of these adhesive lash points to use in various locations on the kayak. They might work as attachment points for a better gear securement in the tank well. I’m thinking maybe a stretch net sort of thing that could go over the regular shock cord system as a back-up to hold things better. Or maybe just one of these right behind the seat and I can run a strap from that point to the U-cleat that the rear carry handle is secured with. That would give me one extra strap over top of stuff. I have time to tinker with ideas over the winter.
http://www.austinkayak.com/products/19155/Sea-to-Summit-Self-Adhesive-Lash-Points-4-Pack.html
Don’t worry about drilling holes in your kayaks to mount gear. I do a lot of kayak fishing, and have added a lot of fishing gear to my 13’ Hobie Revolution and my 13’ Ocean Kayak Trident. For example, shown below is a picture of my Revolution set up for downrigger trolling. Use stainless bolts and nylock nuts, backed up with fender waters or backer plates, and seal the bolt holes with Marine Goop or Aquaseal.
very nice pmmpete
@Raftergirl said:
Yes, I’d rather not drill any holes if it’s not needed. … I bought some of these adhesive lash points to use in various locations on the kayak. They might work as attachment points for a better gear securement in the tank well. I’m thinking maybe a stretch net sort of thing that could go over the regular shock cord system as a back-up to hold things better.
If you have any concerns about how well anchor points will hold, just install more of them. However, check with those having experience regarding whether adhesive pads will stay put, because not many adhesives bond well to polyethylene. I’d have no fear at all about attaching additional anchor points by drilling, because providing more of them than supplied by the factory would reduce the stress on all of them.
Then, if it were me, I’d get rid of any bungie cords, and also forget about nets, straps, and other special items, and just use paracord in some kind of zig-zag, shoelace, or diamond-hitch pattern. Any of those patterns also eliminates the need for a trucker’s hitch to cinch it all down, since you keep pulling things “tight enough” as you work out the slack so that all you need is a finishing knot such as two half-hitches (the trucker’s hitch was mentioned by an earlier poster, which is great for cinching-down a single line but is pointless for finishing-off any kind of back-and-forth weave which will simply maintain however much tension you provide as you tighten the various parts) . This might sound complicated to a person who’s looking for ready-to-buy items of that sort, but it’s actually every bit as fast and easy, and even more adaptable. Still, if you can find the right ready-made item that works like a cargo net, it would do the job.
Just to illustrate the idea, to secure a dry bag or canoe pack of any size or shape to the floor of my canoe, I use a single diamond hitch woven through just four anchor points on the floor (nothing could be simpler or faster). I cinch it moderately tight, so that even lacking the “walled-in” storage area that you have, the gear stays where I put it.
I’ll be attaching the adhesive lash points to an Eddyline ABS plastic kayak, not a HDPE kayak. The package says they are good for adhering to smooth surfaces such as epoxy, polyurethane, plastic, and fiberglass, but not rotomolded HDPE boats. My biggest concern about adding pad eyes is putting them in areas that I can’t access from inside the kayak to add backing washers for strength. I did drill plenty of holes in my Poly kayak to attach Railblaza mounts, paddle clips, and pad eyes. I used well nuts. They work nicely & provide a neoprene seal inside the hull.
I originally bought the adhesive lash points to put inside my Eddyline SOT to be able to clip in the paracord leashes that I have on all my gear bags. The leashes allow me to slide stuff into position inside the hull, but reel it in when I unpack. It keeps me from losing smaller stuff inside the hull.
@pmmpete said:
Don’t worry about drilling holes in your kayaks to mount gear. I do a lot of kayak fishing, and have added a lot of fishing gear to my 13’ Hobie Revolution and my 13’ Ocean Kayak Trident. For example, shown below is a picture of my Revolution set up for downrigger trolling. Use stainless bolts and nylock nuts, backed up with fender waters or backer plates, and seal the bolt holes with Marine Goop or Aquaseal.
Hey pmmpete,
Are those Chaco Outcross that you are wearing? Been considering those. How do you like them? How sticky is the sole? Anything you don’t like about them?
Jon
Not sure if these would work, might be overkill, but could probably use west systems g-flex epoxy and one or two of these.
http://northwater.com/collections/ropes-tie-downs-hardware/products/loop-track-anchor
pmmpete
12:19PM Flag
Don’t worry about drilling holes in your kayaks to mount gear. I do a lot of kayak fishing, and have added a lot of fishing gear to my 13’ Hobie Revolution and my 13’ Ocean Kayak Trident.
Totally different material than an eddyline carbonlite 2000. If you can get in to back up with a decent washer on a flat surface I would guess OK.
I use these (http://northwater.com/collections/ropes-tie-downs-hardware/products/underdeck-anchors) to suspend the underdeck bag and to secure water and food against the front bulkhead. The North Water UnderDeck bag comes with 4 lashtabs (2 are shown) and I added another one along the keel. I used Vynabond to adhere them. Not sure what to use on poly or Carbonite.
Chodups what year is your CD Extreme? What peddles are those? They don’t look stock. thanks
@PaddleDog52 said:
Chodups what year is your CD Extreme? What peddles are those? They don’t look stock. thanks
Not an Extreme. Tempest 170
ok thanks!
@Chodups said:
I use these to suspend the underdeck bag and to secure water and food against the front bulkhead. The North Water UnderDeck bag comes with 4 lashtabs (2 are shown) and I added another one along the keel. I used Vynabond to adhere them. Not sure what to use on poly or Carbonite.
I have them in my WW canoes to help hold float bags in.
@Guideboatguy said:
(the trucker’s hitch was mentioned by an earlier poster, which is great for cinching-down a single line but is pointless for finishing-off any kind of back-and-forth weave which will simply maintain however much tension you provide as you tighten the various parts) .
I use a loop in one end of the rope of a diamond weave and tie a slip knot with the other end of the rope through the loop. I don’t need to tighten each crossing rope as I go. I just use the loop end like the loop in a truckers hitch to act like a pulley and feed the other end of rope through it. Then I tie off with a slip knot at the loop for a quick release knot. Very fast and comes loose faster than 2 half hitches
I use a loop in one end of the rope of a diamond weave and tie a slip knot with the other end of the rope through the loop. I don’t need to tighten each crossing rope as I go. I just use the loop end like the loop in a truckers hitch to act like a pulley and feed the other end of rope through it. Then I tie off with a slip knot at the loop for a quick release knot. Very fast and comes loose faster than 2 half hitches
Sounds good in principle, but I’ve never seen any kind of hold-down pattern in a rope going around several different attachment points that could be tightened uniformly simply by pulling one end, because only that loop you refer to in your description will easily act like a pulley without some coaxing. So that’s what I was referring to, giving a little tug on each segment of line, just as you would need to do at several locations when tightening the laces on your shoes. Even the single diamond hitch I referred to can’t be tightened equally across the load area simply by pulling the free end. As to being faster to release than two half-hitches, you can tie two half-hitches with a quick-release loop if you wish.
Not arguing, but I do this often. Its not a theory. When you use a mechanical advantage it is no longer simply pulling. My attachment point is a perimeter line running through several attachment points with the weave crossing between the attachment points over the line. Yes half hitches with a quick release loop are easier than 2 regular half hitches as you first stated. I enjoy many of your posts, Happy Holidays!
Guideboatguy said:
Sounds good in principle, but I’ve never seen any kind of hold-down pattern in a rope going around several different attachment points that could be tightened uniformly simply by pulling one end, because only that loop you refer to in your description will easily act like a pulley without some coaxing.
Ok if I have some things in the hull but it is not full how do you keep them from shifting? To this point I have usually just the float bags front and rear and may be a few light things in there like a jacket. In my Libra xt Tandem if I take a cooler it’s in the center hatch.
@PaddleDog52 said:
Ok if I have some things in the hull but it is not full how do you keep them from shifting?
If its all light, shifting isn’t a big deal. I regularly roll when out on a day paddle and can hear evetything clunking around in the hatches. My 2 litre bottle of water is probably the worst but doesn’t interfere much. Sometimes if I come up and notice I’m listing to one side I’ll give a bit of a hip flick to readjust my load. That, or I might just need to shift my butt left or right in the seat a tad.
I haven’t had a problem rolling it yet, either fully loaded or with just a few lighter items rattling around.