Chodups what year is your CD Extreme? What peddles are those? They don’t look stock. thanks
@PaddleDog52 said:
Chodups what year is your CD Extreme? What peddles are those? They don’t look stock. thanks
Not an Extreme. Tempest 170
ok thanks!
@Chodups said:
I use these to suspend the underdeck bag and to secure water and food against the front bulkhead. The North Water UnderDeck bag comes with 4 lashtabs (2 are shown) and I added another one along the keel. I used Vynabond to adhere them. Not sure what to use on poly or Carbonite.
I have them in my WW canoes to help hold float bags in.
@Guideboatguy said:
(the trucker’s hitch was mentioned by an earlier poster, which is great for cinching-down a single line but is pointless for finishing-off any kind of back-and-forth weave which will simply maintain however much tension you provide as you tighten the various parts) .
I use a loop in one end of the rope of a diamond weave and tie a slip knot with the other end of the rope through the loop. I don’t need to tighten each crossing rope as I go. I just use the loop end like the loop in a truckers hitch to act like a pulley and feed the other end of rope through it. Then I tie off with a slip knot at the loop for a quick release knot. Very fast and comes loose faster than 2 half hitches
I use a loop in one end of the rope of a diamond weave and tie a slip knot with the other end of the rope through the loop. I don’t need to tighten each crossing rope as I go. I just use the loop end like the loop in a truckers hitch to act like a pulley and feed the other end of rope through it. Then I tie off with a slip knot at the loop for a quick release knot. Very fast and comes loose faster than 2 half hitches
Sounds good in principle, but I’ve never seen any kind of hold-down pattern in a rope going around several different attachment points that could be tightened uniformly simply by pulling one end, because only that loop you refer to in your description will easily act like a pulley without some coaxing. So that’s what I was referring to, giving a little tug on each segment of line, just as you would need to do at several locations when tightening the laces on your shoes. Even the single diamond hitch I referred to can’t be tightened equally across the load area simply by pulling the free end. As to being faster to release than two half-hitches, you can tie two half-hitches with a quick-release loop if you wish.
Not arguing, but I do this often. Its not a theory. When you use a mechanical advantage it is no longer simply pulling. My attachment point is a perimeter line running through several attachment points with the weave crossing between the attachment points over the line. Yes half hitches with a quick release loop are easier than 2 regular half hitches as you first stated. I enjoy many of your posts, Happy Holidays!
Guideboatguy said:
Sounds good in principle, but I’ve never seen any kind of hold-down pattern in a rope going around several different attachment points that could be tightened uniformly simply by pulling one end, because only that loop you refer to in your description will easily act like a pulley without some coaxing.
Ok if I have some things in the hull but it is not full how do you keep them from shifting? To this point I have usually just the float bags front and rear and may be a few light things in there like a jacket. In my Libra xt Tandem if I take a cooler it’s in the center hatch.
@PaddleDog52 said:
Ok if I have some things in the hull but it is not full how do you keep them from shifting?
If its all light, shifting isn’t a big deal. I regularly roll when out on a day paddle and can hear evetything clunking around in the hatches. My 2 litre bottle of water is probably the worst but doesn’t interfere much. Sometimes if I come up and notice I’m listing to one side I’ll give a bit of a hip flick to readjust my load. That, or I might just need to shift my butt left or right in the seat a tad.
I haven’t had a problem rolling it yet, either fully loaded or with just a few lighter items rattling around.