Fairing carbon skin hull

Anyone in Florida have the equipment and skills to redo the bottom of a carbon C1?

The maker said he’d charge $200 to $500, depending on the condition.

But then I’d have to send the boat to Maryland, and that makes the price really go up.

Surf board makers, Paddling builders?


What’s the problem?
Have you broken the hull or just scratched it?

If it’s just scratched, square the hull to your garage floor, scribe a magic marker line with a felt tip on a 2X4, turn the hull over on saw horses, apply masking tap and mask from there down, which is up on the hull,and paint the bottom with spray enamel, then pull the masking before the paint sets.

If you’ve breached the hull you really want the manufacturer, Savage?, to do the repair, because their resin will match and link better, they know what partials are broken and how thick to make the patch, etc.

Under 500 seems an inexpensive repair on a $2500 boat that’s been broken.

Charlie,I have a few gouges in the
keel of the RF from hitting a limestone shelf last weekend. Not deep. Same advice apply? What do you use on the white part of the hull?

RF repair
Sand, acetone, apply gel, then sand back to shape and surface smoothness w/ 120, 220, 320, 600, 1200 grit wet paper.

Not to be a DA, but tell me about gel

Charlie: PC-8?
Are you familiar with PC-7 (gray) and PC-8 (white)?

I have used these for gouge repair in the past and have been pleased with the results. Any strong feelings?

And yes, I realize that PBW hulls have a “cream” gel coat, not white.


Poly Gel
We use a spray -in-the-mold polyester Gel as a sunlight inhibitor and a sacrificial layer. The tan waterline patch is an especially dense gel material.

After cleaning the area, a small amount of gel would be catalyzed with 1.5% MEKP, fully mixed and spread on the scrape to rebuild thickness. Put it on a little proud.

After fully cured, the gel can be sanded back to shape w/ 120, 220 dry paper, then successively sanded out from 320 through 1200-2000 grit wet paper and buffed to restore original surface. conditioin.

One minor change in the order
Clean the surface with solvent first, otherwise you may end up sanding contaminants INTO the surface. This is especially true on a thin hull where you want to remove as little material as possible.

If this is a racing boat, it may not have gelcoat on it. I would ask the manufacturer about it and get their recommendations on repair products.

not broken, just worn
it’s been through a few races. the guy i bought it from used a glazing putty or bondo and sanded it smooth.

should i use enamel instead. There are no major impact points or weak areas.


Don’t know

No knowledge of PC 7/8. Cliff Jacobson suggests bondo and spray paint. I’ve always felt that the proper gel and sanding bonds better and lasts longer. Probably important to get gel from the hull manufacturer; Cook verse American verse? Who knows about bonding compatibility.

I’m concerned about someone putting poly Bondo on an epoxy laminated, skin coated hull.

That said, while Emron would be better than enamel, I’s mask and spray the bottom an off white. Touch-up of future scratches should be easy.

Bad memory - actually PC-11
This is formulated for marine applications. Over the years I have used PC-7 (similar stuff in grey) to repair stem damage on my Sawyer Cruiser, make outfitting changes to my Seda slalom C-1, repair paddles etc. I currently have a package of 11 I plan on using to fair teh wear areas on my QCC-500. Hopefully the white color will match reasonably well.



Ever try JB Weld?
I’ve only used it on Royalex but it sticks like crazy (even waafffer thin!) is very hard and slippery. It’s grey though.

I imagine that JB Weld
and PC products are actually not too different, advertizing claims aside. I started using PC-7 about 30 years ago, and have had good results, so I declined to change.


so enamel as a filler?
and is there a way to safely remove the reddish bondo?

CEW, i want to fill and smooth
enamel spray it like you said for the entire hull?

Just the masked off waterline