Trying to find the exact location of foot brace installation on a plastic kayak. Before securing the foot bar brace to the sides of the kayak I’d like to know what is the best location before drilling mounting holes. Closer to the floor or up the sides high enough to minimize any water leakage thru the bolt holes. I can’t find any info on line addressing this.I’m going to sit in the kayak (on dry land)and stretch my legs to find the most comfortable position then go from there. Any info or computer links would be appreciated. Thank you

balls of your feet
On most kayaks, they line up with the balls of your feet. The drilled holes seem to be just a few inches down from the deck line. Around a 3rd of the space above the holes, and 2/3 of the space below.

In all athletics that discuss incorporating your legs, it seems working off of the balls of your feet is where you get the most strength and agility. In surf skis and ruddered kayaks, it seems they may work more from the heels, in order to incorporate rudder control with the tops of your feet. Or maybe you just angle your foot up and work the rudder with your toes. I guess that’s the way it is in one of mine. Since you’re working from a seated position, I’m not sure the balls of your feet are quite as important in paddling. I haven’t given it that much thought. But without the need to have a fixed portion and a moveable portion of the pedal, I think I would stick with the balls of your feet. If you allow yourself room to rotate in your seat, it will allow you a little better extension inside the cockpit than working from your heels I would think.

I can’t remember any discussions about optimizing placement of foot pedals according to where your feet are placed upon them. The little things are always worth some thought.

3M masking tape

– Last Updated: Jun-24-14 9:54 PM EST –

The pedals are on fore aft adjustable runners ?

try a flat aluminum angle, you bend in vise...maybe a 2x4 U-clamp vise.

mask the angle to your first choices. try with bare feet. my heels sore, a floor pad is deluxe.

layout is a problem. You need an accurate fore aft center line, several filled U shape cardboards...Wal has the thumbs !

try establishing with the angle (or wood block) where the runner starts and where you adjust height fore and aft, from hull center...for stretching legs on longer days.

standing the full U cardboards 90 degrees off hull bottom will orient your measurement perceptions.

use a drop light, fresh Sharpy or lay down masking tape along a pencil line

drilling exploraroty holes is allowed. drill bits for composites and plastics are available.

if you not experienced at building stuff, look for a boat builder.

more layout
I forgot the main tool.

Establishing a centerline allows ‘accurate’ measurement up to the hole or mounting line.

On a Solstice, I began with the seat front measuring to the center.

A straight edge, use a steel rule, sighted down above the seat with 2 small tight cardboard box rectangles either side sitting on hull. Equal angles off the boxes to rule indicate a center line position.

Wood 1x2” across the coaming with plumb bob dropped from center with 1x2 positioned again with equal angles all 4 sides of the 1x2”/coaming intersection.

Uh, I remember getting within about 3/16ths” of where the centerline may be as the line passed the foot peg area.

The tool here is a 90 degree angle of shirt box cardboard…thin, flexible yet durable.

With a centerline and a good 90 angle tool, you may measure up from the ‘center line’ locating’ holes or mounting positions on similar areas starboard and port.

The approach is not nautical but residential housing.

We welcome criticism.

The line about the approach was funny!

keep in mind
…you’re only fixing the vertical location, in a sense. Because the pegs are on sliders. No need to overthink it.

I agree with what CapeFear said about lining them up with the balls of your feet.

custom custom

If the slider’s front position, that where the foot pedal is on the slider, is fixed on the hull from the taped metal angle tryouts then the rear is positioned same way.

Try sitting in a replica position against a wall with your foot against the wall as with the angle/hull on boat.

Attach a marker to your foot ball then slide leg forward down the wall/slider length.

Average this motion/position over several trials on odd days and there’s the deep custom end of the custom slider installation.

no snickering !

Please don’t take offense.
I started chuckling, and feel inclined to joke at your expense.

I just have to ask.

Are you the person that types up the assembly instructions for all those big-box assembly-required items?


No, but once upon a time South Koreans were top dog. My feedback from builders of my ideas is positive in the device’s building and efficacy. On the other hand, many people, professional writers to illiterates, who do not build criticize my language structure.


You know machinist’s eye ? progress from 1/8th" is large measurement to .5mm…25mm is a large measurement.

I now encounter boat wright’s eye where hull curves distort built in perspectives for rectangular flat landers.

OK, we can go ahead and drill holes in the hull willy nilly and get that right more or less but ensuring success here requires some layout just to get your eye straight.

I could re write that and let it digest for a week but…its a forum not Woodenboat.

Thanks everyone for the replies but I still haven’t found a link on line or a tutorial about addressing this problem. Seems as if most of these braces are factory installed altho I see a lot of ads selling them. I’ll combine all your hints and double triple check things before I drill. Planning on using neophreme washers and fender washers with 1/4-20 srews provided to help seal out any leakage.

Thanks again, Tom