I picked up a pair of adjustable footpegs to install in my Wenonah solo+. (tuffweave) and two tubes of vinabond at the big year end sale as recommended by the sales person. I am concerned about how strong the bond will be. I’m no lightweight and am wondering…
Did I make the right purchase?
Is two smallish tubes enough?
Should I have purchased something that drills through?
If I install them this week, will they be ready for Raystown?
Thanks!
Ralph
Vynabond ,Tuf weave and footpegs
I don’t think I’ve ever heard anyone discussing those three elements coming together in one project before.
Go get two 4 oz bottles of G-flex epoxy
I have no idea why some people think Vynabond is a suitable adhesive for attaching things to composite boats. With Royalex, Vynabond has a unique “grab.” With composite, the Vynabond has only a weak surface bond.
You might prefer the pre-thickened version of West G-flex. Should cost you about $16, will last indefinitely, and is an outstanding adhesive.
I got those Harmony Slide-Loc
foot pegs to install in my Kevlar canoe and CEW recommended Plexus structural adhesive to glue them directly into the hull as does PBW. I haven’t done it yet. I’m still trying to figure out a good way to bridge the pegs with a bar.
http://placidboats.com/Seatopt.html
Does this help? Here are the pegs I got.
http://shop2.aol.ca/shop/product–productId_2857807.html
They are North Water “yakima style” pegs with vinyl flaps for glueing. One site recommends vinyl tec 2000 for attachment. Is that the same as g4Epoxy?
Is Tuf weave a composite? I guess this is what happens when a kayaker comes over to the dark side. Total confusion! I haven’t had any luck yet searching for an installation of these things in a Wenonah tuf weave boat.
ctk, how wide is the attachment base
for what you want to install? Now, Tuffweave is one of Wenonah’s stiffer and more substantial layups, but if the bases of your footbrace are small, you might consider using G-flex, Plexus, or whatever to glue in a sort of “washer” or expanded base to spread the load, and then glue in the bases themselves. I would glass in one or two layers of Kevlar or polyester as a base, but some sort of semi-flexible substance would do.
The surface area of the vinyl base
– Last Updated: Sep-26-10 5:37 PM EST –
is 4.75" x 12.25" for each. My first thought was that they would attach to the side wall like a kayak footbrace. Now that I'm looking at them, I guess they attach to the floor, with the heels placed against the pedals. I'm surprised that they aren't angled back on top for a more natural fit to the foot. Yes, I am at least half a dumb-ass...
Why not use standard footbrace?
Why not just use a standard canoe style foot brace with the bar. Something like this:
http://www.rutabaga.com/product.asp?pid=1012350
Just drill a couple holes and pop in some rivets. I’d find kayak style foot braces very frustrating in a canoe, I like to put my feet wherever I want.
Alan
I saw those on the Wenonah site too.
When I paddled bluemerle’s solo+ last year at Raystown, I thought I remembered footpegs somewhat similar to what I purchased. Today was the first time I saw the bar style footbrace.
Yikes
– Last Updated: Sep-26-10 6:58 PM EST –
No way I'd put those in a composite. And no way 2 of those little tubes of Vyna Bond would attach them even if it was the right adhesive for the job.
I'd call Wenonah, tell them you've got a composite, they'll send you a footbrace and the right rivets for a through the hull attachment.
Considering shear, I’d feel better
about drilling through. Eric’s install advice makes sense to me if I’m going to make use of what I have. Had I done my homework, I might have given the bar more consideration. The way I sit (no kneeling for me) the kayak-style braces will work well. I can’t return them, year end “all sales final”, but I will bring the vinyl bases to Raystown and will be happy to give them to the first whitewater canoeist who needs them.
The existing panhead bolts that attach the rails to the vinyl backing are 3/4" long. I am replacing those with the longer ones, correct?
Crimp two ends of two different
diameters of aluminum tubing. Slide the open end of the larger over the other. Of course the diameters should be just slightly different like in collapsible tarp poles.
Measure carefully then tailor the length to the width between footpegs allowing the tubes to override each other to some degree. Drill hole through each peg and each corresponding end of crimp. Attatch short bolt through each end. Voila.
Of course a picture would make this seem so evident but I forgot to take one this weekend when I actually had access to this arrangement.
As the pegs are Plexused to the boat, no holes are needed and the pegs are free to flex and the bar free to lenghten or shorten with flex of the boat and placement fore and aft.
Its actually pretty neat and stress free to the skin.
Thanks, that’s pretty much what
– Last Updated: Sep-27-10 8:28 AM EST –
I saw in my mind's eye until I started mocking everything up in the boat with blue tape. Then it became a 3-D puzzle. The ends of the bar need to swing independently and I may end up needing to cut away a lot of the pegs themselves for clearance. But that's okay. It was really the adjustable-on-the-fly tracks I was after!
BTW, Openboater (who I both admire and trust) isn't nuts about the idea of glueing the tracks directly into the hull. Of course, he's thinking about having to remove them later. I'm thinking, OTOH, that if I can do it right, removal won't need to happen in my lifetime!
Thanks for the help everybody.
Didn’t mean to start any controversy.
a picture is worth a thousand words
the bar runs in back of the pegs and nothing needed to be trimmed on the sole of the pegs…you do want your feet comfy.
Wish I had a picture!
Nah, your description was good.
Reinventing the wheel is my specialty. You think I’d wanna make it less complicated?