Waves @7.5’ plus are building along with the winds of 20-25 knots. It is going to be BIG, MESSY and BLOWN OUT tomorrow. While I am still holding hope for good left over swells and offshore (clean up) winds on Sunday, I am glad I dropped stuff and caught some of the early Lee swells yesterday. It was a short (1.5 hours) but fun session:
So, sorry to say, it’s a wrap for Hurricane Lee swells. It didn’t take the more ideal fish storm track. As I expected ,once Lee made landfall on Nova Scotia, the energy was taken out of the water column. This dawn, we had decent 3’ plus swells that very made better by a 15 knot offshore wind. The waves weren’t big but were steep and juicy with energy.
Given expected sun and temps hitting the high 70’s, I am sure the south shore beach break would get too crowded. So, I headed my to my favorite rocky break on the north shore. It actually was not at all crowded, but I made my way to the offshore reef break, thinking I would get some solitude and plentiful waves. Three boardies had the same idea and got out there before me. So, we all played nice and shared the two peaks - one on each side of the big rip current running through the reef. Got in a couple of hours of riding. Enough for an adrenaline fix.
Still an active tropical Atlantic season. Nigel has formed and he looks to be taking a fish storm track. We should be seeing those swells towards the end of next week!
I LOVE and appreciate getting solitary waves (winter surf is BEST for that). But the reality is that we are going to encounter other surfers. Here is a good primer on how to “play nice” and share waves with others!
Nigel swells will begin to show in MassBay by Wednesday. RI is getting its share (and more) beginning today.