I recently purchased a used Valley Aquanaut. I noticed the other day that the fiberglass on the bottom of the cockpit has a fuzzy feel to it where you can actually feel the fibers of the material—basically appears that the out coating has somehow been worn / dissolved off. The sides of the cockpit are fine, just the bottom has this feel to it.
Perhaps coincidentally, I have noticed that the bottom of the boat does have a good amount of flex to it. I found this out when strapping it to my Yakima rack without cradles (which I am no longer doing).
Is this something that I should attend to? Is the lack of this outer coating making my hull more flexy?
Is this a problem that I should attend to?
Around The Feet Area?
that’s where the wear would show from feet going in and out with sand on the shoes.
You can sand it down a bit and put a coat of epoxy on, or you can sand and put a layer of epoxy and glass to build it up against future wear. You’re looking at 2 hour job max.
Supplies can be purchased at any marine store.
Glass usually wears smooth. Might be
some other material, if it is genuinely fuzzy.
Kevlar or polyester cloth make better interior reinforcement materials than glass. When the glass wears again, the microfibers may make you itch.
I put a two layer concentric Kevlar patch on the inside seat area of a c-1 I was converting to kayak. The larger layer, the first one down, was probably 18" by 10". Using as little West Epoxy as possible, I added little weight to the boat, but reinforced it in a vulnerable area.
Diolene, a polyester based fabric…somewhere between fiberglass and kevlar in toughness…don’t sand it…it will just fuzz more. Mix some resin and put a light coat on the effected area. Don’t use too thick of layer, just enuff to cover the fibers and make them matt
By the way , all boats flex, even britt boats. They arent made out of I beams and chanel iron afterall
AND >>> while doing the glass / resin
once over, place a unfolded/wrinkled piece of clean, 4 / 6 mil clear plastic over the whole thing and squeegee nice and smooth… just work the air out and let cure … peels off leaving a nice smooth, more wear resistant surface. Or put some Ridge Rest foam down there, groves running fore and aft.
Resin / Plastic
I have not done any glass work before. Exactly what type of resin to I get and where? How about plastic mentioned as well?
West Marine (store)
West System 105 ( epoxy)
West System 205 ( fast hardener)
206 slower cure
Get the squeegee plastic and brushes at Home depot or pay a little more / less driving @ West Marine ( store)
is available on line as well.
Make sure you clean the area very good with water and let dry. No dust, sand dirt of grit. Before applying epoxy I would wipe the area with a rag and acetone or laquer thinner.
Where do I get the 4/6 mil plastic from? Is that like a painting drop cloth?
epoxy can eat some film type sheets…if you use it test it somewhere first…to my knowledge polyester & vinalester resins don’t…but always do a test before committing your boat to it forever
Wax paper can also work with poly or vynal-ester resins…not sure about epoxy
Wha Ho, Pilgrim;
Waxed paper works great with epoxy. Ah’ used it ta build me’ Pygmy Tern 17 using System 3 epoxy. No problems with polyethelene either.
Fadered, I think you have it backwards .... epoxy does not "Eat" anything unless it is one of the harsh, styrene base, oldworld compounds or or anyone of the 'ester' resins vinyl and poly in this group.
Bowler ....Clear unwrinkled plastic 4/ 6 mil.
Epoxy will bond to Saran Wrap, but not
to generic food wrap films.
Onno..I don't use much epoxy...(I bow to you as the epoxy guy) so thanks for clarifing....I tend to use wax paper....anyway..... test before comitting, I have used film with polyester resin and had good results but tend to like the wax
No worries, I just think the clear
has it advantages over wax paper. You can see through it, stronger and more tolerant of heavier squeegeeing, wet epoxy ‘sticks’ to it or it stays layed down better + it has a bit more 3D capabilty.