I was thinking of making some drybags out of a coated/waterproof nylon material I found.
Has anyone done this?
I was planning on sewing the fabric, then using McNett seam-grip on the inside and outside of the seams to make it waterproof. The other option would be to just use the glue with no sewing for fewer holes.
Do I have the right sealer/glue? Other recommendations?
Thanks
Heat sealable nylon…
http://www.seattlefabrics.com/nylons.html#heat%20sealable%20oxford
Much easier and what most nylon commercially made drybags are made with.
Yup To That.
Got a 20 yards of the stuff on a group buy/sale. Custom float bags for various kayaks and different sized drybags galore.
Just cut to size and seal the edges with an old iron.
sing
jjoven answered this not too long ago.
He has gone paddling for a few weeks, but a search should turn up the thread and info you seek.
:^)
Mick
You will love this stuff
It’s called, “boot material” used by the phone company and such. Stretches like rubber, has a peal off backing, sticks to itself without any glue or stiching and can be easily fitted with an air valve. Just cut to size. I don’t know the trade name, we just called it “boot material” at New Jersey Bell.
Thanks!
I am going to go with the heat-sealable nylon for now (because it seams so much easier), and look for the boot stuff over the winter (when there is no paddling for me).
That Fabric place is a great find.
Cost/Benefit?
Looking at the Seattle Fabric site, it seems to me that you might be able to buy a commercially made drybag about as cheaply as making your own. The heat-sealable ballistics fabric listed is $18.75/yard + shipping and seems to only come in hot pink! That is pretty pricy fabric. When you consider you could buy a commercially made dry bag for $15 to $100 (depending on fabric, size, and configuration of carrying straps, etc.), I am not sure of the cost efficiency. So, unless you need a specially-sized bag, a bunch of smaller bags, or you just want to do this for your own satisfaction/education, you might want to reconsider…
Oxford is sufficient…
– Last Updated: Jul-07-06 11:51 AM EST –
Typically the oxford is durable enough that ballistic cloth is not needed in my experience.
A 'yard' is typically 36" by 60". That's a few dry bags for $12.75/yard.
I use 1/2" flat nylon tape and 1/2" fastex buckles sewn around the opening of the bag. That adds about $1 per bag. Seems cost effiecient to me, not to mention that you get exactly the size and shape you want.
Cut tape length with to leave enough slack at either end of the bag opening (after being sewn around the circumference of the opening) so that it sticks out about 1/2" per side in a loop. This is where the fastex buckles are placed.
I start sewing one end of the tape midway through one side, sew it from the middle to the edge of the bag, add a buckle with the 'base' of the buckle about 1/2" from the edge of the bag material (extra stitches through the edge of the bag where it's sealed to guard against where and tear here), sew along the entire other side, add the other side of the fastex buckle such that the tape forms a loop about 1/2" away from the bag edge that the buckle rides in and then sew the rest of the tape down the side you started sewing on such that the tape ends butt up against each other. Might want to keep the tape long by an inch or two and then cut and heat the end right before you sew the last of it down so you can get a precise fit. Use a lighter (lighters are not meant to be used continuously) or other heat device to clean up the thread ends and bag edges as needed.
I can make a bag in about 1/2 hour start to finish. Probably faster if I did it more often.
Odd sizes
Yes - you were right when you guessed that I want drybags that fit certain bits of gear. The sizes/shapes I am looking for are not readily available.
I have been calling around trying to find a closer seller, but so far no luck.
As a thought to the subject
I use a $ 5.00 padded and insulated lunch cooler for my gas stove and lantern if this is a type of equipment your interested in containing and also give them some protection. Might waist a little space with the shape but do protect this type valuable gear in the hold.
Small lanterns, fuel bottles, cameras, binocular’s, eye glasses, small radios, favorite hooch.
They measure rectangular about 8 x 6 x 6 inches
Brian
SoFlo
nylon drybag
I just made a few drybags out of nylon material that had a rubbery waterproof backing. I cut two rectangles and sewed the edges together. Then I turned it inside out and covered the seam with instant welder (a cheap liquid nails type glue). I’ve only been using them for a couple of months so I’m not sure how it will last but for now it’s completely waterproof.
I made some drybags for my maps
using clear vinyl that I bought at a Wally World. It isn’t too expensive and comes in various thicknesses. I sewed the seams and then used a vinly glue HH66 to seal the seams. The sewing was an overkill since the glue works great on vinly. I got the glue from a factory that makes vinly tarps and it isn’t very expensive. The glue works great on Royalex.