Does anyone know what type of glue you are supposed to us when glueing an airbag floor patch to a Mohawk probe canoe?
Dap Weldwood contact cement with the red label.
My opinions; others opinion may vary…
Buy the smaller can; a little of it goes a long way. Make sure the can is securely closed when you’ve finished using it.
- Make sure the patch/anchor is where you want it.
- Outline the patch with a fine tip magic marker, where you want the patch/anchored secured.
- “Lightly” sand the area inside the magic marker outline. Sand just enough to rough up the surface of where the patch/anchor will be placed.
- Clean surface sand papered with alcohol and let it dry (bone dry!).
- Apply smooth coat of Weldwood to outlined area, and to bottom of patch/anchor.
- Let that coat dry in both locations mentioned.
- Apply second coat to outlined area in canoe, and to bottom of patch/anchor.
- Apply patch/anchor to outlined/sanded area. Make sure patch/anchor is in proper place inside outlined area. Be quick!!!
9.Apply pressure to, and smooth out the anchor/patch. Do this repeatedly with lots of pressure. A big, wooden handled tool of some sort is helpful in smoothing out, and pressuring patch/anchor into place. - Don’t quit doing #9 too quick. It’s great stuff, but it ain’t magic. Need to take time enough for it to dry…
- If you follow #1 thru #10; you should be “good to go”
I have never/ever had a vinyl patch, plastic anchor, or close celled foam pads break loose from the place where I secured them with Weldwood. I’ve used it to secure air bags anchors, air bag center straps, saddles, thigh straps, knee pads, paddle and canteen anchors and ankle pads.
“Take your time; don’t rush”. Avoid distractions.
A lot of the boats pictured were outfitted by me.The others were added to illustrate varied outfitting.
Don’t get in a big hurry…
BOB
P.S. The long haired, “hippie hipster” is NOT me. He is a hustler, from Wisconsin, who talked me out of the red colored, Mad River Flashback in the photos. He paid me less than what the outfitting, and sweat equiyt
I had invested in the canoe was worth. He got airbags, painters, air bags covers, and a custom made saddle cover for basically nothing. If I remember correctly; he still owe me $450.00 for the bare hull. I ain’t holding my breath waiting for it!
He goes by Pat or PJC. If starts eyeing your canoe; grab the canoe and "run away’!!!
That old Wisconsin “hippie hipster” is smoother than a snake oil salesman…
It’s ok I guess 
; I have another one!
Great to know. Thanks. Also my thigh strap is coming apart from the thigh strap pad that it comes glued to. Will this glue work for that process too or will that require something different to bond them together?
As noted in original opinions/directions; it will work for thigh straps too.
Good luck.
Post photos of your efforts; it will assist others with same issue.
BOB
Definitely the Original Contact Cement, what we used to call in the hardware business the “sniffable” one. The one that is in the green can (“unsniffable”) does not hold well when wet. You can still get it in a 2 or 3 oz bottle too that has an applicator. I usually keep on in my emergency bag just in case a D Ring comes off on the river.
I glued patches yesterday and put a bunch of weights on it. How long before I can take the weight off and get the boat back in the water?
I typically leave a boat sitting overnight, after I finish gluing down any piece of outfitting.
You should set aside time, to be able to take your time.
It is a big/unnecessary hassle redoing a piece of outfitting; because you got impatient, and didn’t allow sufficient curing time for the adhesive.
You don’t want whitewater outfitting popping loose when you’re actually “doing whitewater”. Again, big/unnecessary hassle. If the river gods want to play with you a little; you might end up with a piece of loose outfitting wrapped around your neck or ankle.
NOT GOOD!
BOB
1 Like