I want to glue some D rings or something to the interior of the bow and stern in my big open rec boat to attach float bags to.
Any readily available glue type favorites to look for?
What do I stay away from?
Thanks
Mary
I haven’t found one yet
The plastic that most rec boats are made of isn’t very glue friendly, even after roughing up .
foam sticks with contact cement
but I’m doubtful that it would stick the vinyl tabs on d-rings to the poly of a kayak.
Perhaps there is some existing hardware penetrations for the toggles that you could use. For example, I used the existing holes in front of the cockpit (used for deck bungies and perimeter ropes) to accomodate longer bolts, that I used to hold a section of webbing on the underside of the deck.
Maybe there’s a way you could do something similar to provide a point to attach float bags to.
Alternative to glue…
On the same paddling.net message board where your inquiry is posted; look up the post listed below, and check out that inquiry & responses:
Bell YS Solo/Installing bag cages
Posted by Bowler1
That’s a good alternative.
BOB
Footpeg rails
are fairly easy to attach to. If there is any deck rigging behind the cockpit you can replace one of the existing bolts or drill out a rivet to tie ont to.
West claims that their new G-flex epoxy
will work for that application. You can get enough for the job in the 4 oz bottles, and it mixes 1:1, and isn’t fussy about the ratio. West gives instructions on their website for G-flexing stuff to poly. It involves not only cleaning and sanding, but also briefly flaming the plastic surface with a propane torch. But they say the G-flex will then hold tight.
I have used G-flex for D-rings, but I haven’t yet tried it on poly boats. However, West usually don’t make claims that they can’t back up.
If it be a Royalex boat…
– Last Updated: Aug-27-09 8:34 PM EST –
Ya didn't tell use wat kind o' material or boat it be.... but ah' find DAP Weldwood (red can) woyks wunderful on Royalex skin (vinyl)...
FE
Shoot
I didn’t anticipate that this would be difficult. How hard is glue? LOL
Its a Loon 111. Do its polylink 3 if that helps. The outside seems pretty much like regular poly, the grayish inside seems slightly different but I don’t know if it really is or what it would be if not poly.
Should I try a marine/boat type store?
On the bag cages, I did searches on bowler and could not find that post.
Ok,…
– Last Updated: Aug-27-09 8:50 PM EST –
Never mind de Weldwood contact ceement thing...ain't gonna stick. G2D's soogestion sounds like it might woyk on poly.
FE
Polyethylene is hard to glue to.
From http://www.yemmhart.com/materials/origins/fabrication.htm
Polyethylene can be laminated to itself and other substrates. When laminating to wood or any other material, abrade the side of the polyethylene to receive the adhesive with a 36 to 80 grit paper. Apply a good grade of contact cement per the label directions. With contact cement lamination, the seams can still be welded using adhesive or heat. The highest quality lamination of polyethylene to polyethylene is in a compression molding press. With this method several thicknesses of material can be laminated together to form a 100% bond. When different color panels are used, the laminated panel becomes suitable for engraving or edge profiling. This method of lamination requires no surface preparation. The various adhesives tested and approved for use with Origins are:
1.
3M # 4693 Contact Cement, quick, visible glue line - http://www.3m.com
2.
Loctite Super Bonder Products #414, 416, 454 w/ #770 primer, a cyanoacrylate, invisible glue -
http://www.henkel.com/cps/rde/xchg/henkel_com/hs.xsl/12165_COE_HTML.htm
3.
3M #DP-8005 Scotch-Weld Structural Plastic Adhesive, invisible glue line - http://www.3m.com
Rough it up and use…
…3M 4200 fast cure. Let it cure a day before stressing.
Forget glue, if you want them secure…
It is likely that your boat has pad eyes somewhere along the deck. If they are not riveted in place, and you can reach the nuts from inside, you can remove one of the screws from a pad eye on each side, the most forward and most aft; take screws to your local Lowes or Ace Hardware and match, replacing the screws with longer ones.
You can also find, there, nylon loops or round clips with screw holes in them. Get these and washers for each replacement - all of the metal stuff in stainless steel.
Put the longer screws in the pad eye holes, reach inside and, first put a nylon loop or clip over the screw, followed by a washer, then the nut. You will then have more secure attachment points for your bags than glued D-rings. Just run your rope through the nylon loops/clips and attach them to the flotation bags, drawing the bags up into the compartment as far as possible.
One other thing, to be sure you have a watertight seal, you can add a drop of “Marine Goop” around the hole under the pad eye, before you put the screw in.
This will give you two attachment points at each location (bow and stern) for each flotation bag, which should hold up under any of the conditions in which you will likely be paddling a rec kayak.
Good luck . . . it’s a simple project, really.