Well, he said he was going to use
epoxy on the ends. I have used epoxy on the ends and edges of both canoe and kayak paddles. If I ever turn my 10’ length of quarter sawn, clear, close-grained sitka spruce into a Greenland paddle rather than soundboard slats, I will probably epoxy the ends and edges.
I certainly wouldn’t use epoxy on soundboards. Clear shellac only, and not much of that.
Anyone else?
If anyone else would like to weigh in with your preference for a finish I would love to hear it.
Thanks,
Bob
I like the simplicity of
Formby’s Tung Oil. It’s a durable finish that feels good. Some people get hung up on the semantics of “Tung Oil” because Formby’s is not really a tung oil.
A couple coats of epoxy on the tips and the a few coats of Formby’s on the paddle and it’s a done deal for a couple of seasons. At least it’s what works for me.
I agree with Matt
If I remember correctly Brian uses a mixture of varnish, oil and a thinner. I think what he likes about the finish is that it seals the wood well and provides a durable finish that has flexibility to it. When I’ve used hard finishes like polyurethane, it would develop cracks from the smallest dents and let water into the wood. I have found Formby’s Tung Oil to work very well for protecting soft wood. It has a durable finish that will some good denting before it cracks.
If your going to apply epoxy to the paddle, do it before you apply any finish. The more coats that you use, the more durable it will be. On a soft wood paddle epoxy helps with abrasion but will chip off if it is hit hard.
Similar…
… though I like Minwax Tung oil finish (does have tung). Lately I only use it for first coat (it’s finish is a little tougher than just oil), and just use pure tung after that. The pure stuff feels silkier and is so much nicer on the lungs and hands. Can apply by hand and wash off with soap/water.
Tip epoxy may be a good idea (before oiling!). Most of my personal paddles don’t have it as I’m not very rough on tips (and I just grab the composite paddle if battling rough ground). Last one I made/sold did. Used graphite powder so tips complimented carbon ferrule (warning - sanding this mix, or any tinted/filled epoxy, can make a BIG mess on your otherwise unfinished wood. White not so much, clear no problem). In all the tips are pretty easy and quick to do.
I am thinking of going to varnish over epoxy for laminated 2 piece paddles. Durable and good looking, but I just don’t like the added expense and more all or nothing results compared to oiling/blends. Easier for people to touch up the tung oil finishes if they want to, and wood can breath, dings can pop out, water doesn’t migrate under finish cracks…
I use a simple 50:50 blend…
– Last Updated: Feb-08-09 11:38 AM EST –
...of oil and natural varnish. I've also used polyurethane varnish and it seems to work better with a little more oil in the mix, say 60:40
I stopped thinning the mix, as it really doesn't increase penetration to any significant degree and it's one less component to deal with. I'm beginning to think that the only reason I ever used thinner is that the scent of my original mixture of turpentine, linseed oil and varnish is really quite pleasant. I now use tung oil and it's not the same. ;-)
Speaking of which, either tung oil or boiled linseed oil will work fine on paddles. Tung oil cures a bit faster and has slightly less gloss, but boiled linseed oil is much cheaper and available just about everywhere. OTOH, 100% tung oil is generally only found at stores that carry specialty wood finishing products (Woodcraft, Rockler, Lee Valley, etc).
As for epoxying the tips, you should definitely do the sealer coat before finishing the rest of the paddle. You want the epoxy to penetrate into the end grain to seal and reinforce it, so it needs to be applied over the bear wood. This also makes finishing the paddle easier, as you can support it in the middle while you epoxy the ends, then support it by the ends as you finish the rest of it.
If you choose not to add contrasting tips, you should find that the clear epoxy and the oil/varnish blend produce very similar colors and the seam should be almost invisible. You'll want to add a coat or two of epoxy to produce a smooth finish. You can degloss it with #000 or #0000 steel wool to match the satin finish of the oil/varnish blend.
There is a pic of clear tip (single coat of epoxy) in my "Greenland Paddles" album on Webshots at:
http://community.webshots.com/user/brian_nystrom-reg
As others have mentioned, there are detailed instructions and photos in my book.
Thanks to all that responded…
I never really took to the GP built to the specs that chuck holst gives in his instructions (loom just felt too narrow) so I put a 24" loom on the one that I’m finishing now (I can just hear the traditionalist gasping in horror 
It’s 86" long. We’ll see if it makes enough difference to convince me to switch over from the Euro.
Bob
Use whatever works for you
A true traditionalist will say the same. There is no one size fits all when it comes to greenland paddles. Anthropometric measurements are meant to be a starting point. The more you study greenland paddles, the more diversity you’ll find. Also you’ll find that you’ll like paddles with different characteristics for different conditions. That’s why we all wear different shoes.
Just plain Danish Oil
is all I use, a couple of soaking coats on a new one and a freshening occasionally if I think of it. My favorite paddle doesn’t have anything on it at all and it is three years old and my most used paddle. It has developed a “patina” in the shoulder area.
Nothin’ wrong with that!
I know of a few people who prefer a 24" loom, one of whom is the Greenland paddling icon Maligiaq Padilla. That puts you in darn good company!
My first one
was way too heavy, twisted, warped, too thin, too short and ugly but I loved it up until I made the next one. That’s what making your own is all about.
Support the paddle when finishing?
Jeez, you probably even have power tools, dust collection, and a climate controlled workplace! L
OK, I get it for epoxying the tips (I have a work table the ends overhang) - but for oiling? My methods would be more familiar to those using seal oil than you serious woodworker types! Rub it on, wipe it off - right over the epoxy tips - stand 'em up to cure.
Do I dare explain my primitive laminating and carving methods? Best not…
epoxy duribility on GP and refinishing
I bought a used a two part GP that was made for a paddler going to the Greenland rolling competition. By being a two piece paddle, it was easier to fly to Greenland. I was told that it was used during Greenland competitions three different years.
Structurally, the paddle did hold up to the stress of the Greenland competition. Solid WRC 2 part paddles have a tendency to break at the carbon ferrel due to stress being concentrated there; There is a wide difference in flexibility between the WRC and the carbon ferrel. This one shows no cracking at the ferrel.
However, under the oil finish there is a coat of epoxy. The epoxy has fractured or crazed from the ferrel to about 1/2 way to the tips. I surmise that it is from bruising while leaning on the kayak for entry and from the stresses of many rolls. With my oil finished GP’s I see bruising in the same area. I’m mentioning this to point out that while a epoxy coat may toughen up the paddle surface slightly, it creates it’s own problems in the long run.
I am removing the epoxy and will recoat with a oil varnish blend.
Dave
Give it several weeks at least on water
Before you make a conclusion. It takes some time to begin to feel good and it can be uncomfortable/unusual at first. They require a somewhat different power curve on your part and that is not something that is easy to get fast even though it may have been well illustrated by Greyak’s (?) curves and associated discussions.
I’m new to it but over the past 3-4 months have gradually convinced myself that the sticks are much superior for me in most situations. But I was not sure at all at the beginning…
Buying or borrowing a good one that is sized close to your measurements from someone could give a good idea about what to expect and then you can customize to suit you.
I have not seen that on canoe paddle
shafts coated with epoxy, but if the shaft is subjected to a force strong enough to depress the wood underneath, then the epoxy is going to crack or craze. And the force on a shaft from entering and exiting certainly might be enough.
My WW canoe paddle shafts take a lot of punishment, and while some are spruce, and presumably soft, I haven’t had the cracking problem.
That will solve the problem
My feeling is that if you’re going to epoxy the paddle, you may as well glass it. Gabriel Romeu uses a VERY light fiberglass that only weighs .55 oz/yard (it looks like pantyhose material) and it’s completely invisible on the finished paddle. It adds substantially to the durability and reduces the likelihood of crack that can allow water in, but adds very little to the weight. However, it does make the paddle stiffer and like epoxy without glass, you still have to varnish over it, which adds considerably to the maintenance of the paddle.
I have used a similar glass material
but what I tried was disappointing in its lack of strength. One could use a lighter, non-glass cloth, but on an entire paddle, you are correct in noting it adds palpable weight. With my limited understanding of the use demands on a GP paddle, it seems a shame to glass the whole thing. Also, I have noticed on more than one of my paddles, that when wear goes through the epoxy and into the cloth, my hands start to crack because of microfibers being driven into my skin. Better to have a nice oiled wooden shaft.
?Is it possibly the case that the most protection is needed at the paddle tips and around the center of the loom, the latter because of stress against the boat when boarding, etc.? Perhaps one could glass (or Nylon) only the area around the loom. Of course one cannot use a shrink-down vinyl sleeve such as we use to protect carbon shafts on slalom paddles, but perhaps there is a way to seam some vinyl or leather or genuine imitation Naugahyde around the shaft.
Naugahyde on paddle shaft
Yeah, I had thought about using Naugahyde on the paddle shafts. But, after I thought about all the Naugas that are killed to make Naugahyde, I decided against this “solution”.
Dave
Stress on center of the loom?
– Last Updated: Feb-12-09 9:46 AM EST –
I don't see why there should be any undue stress on the center of the loom. When entering the boat, I always place a blade on the deck, not the loom. I often enter the boat with it in shallow water. The buoyancy of the paddle set up as an outrigger is more than enough to allow for entry and it puts very little stress on the paddle. Speaking of which, if you're leaning hard enough on your paddle to seriously stress it when entering your boat, you need to work on your technique. The paddle should be used as a balance aid, not a crutch.
In the past I've used fiberglass and Dynel as reinforcements on paddle tips, but I don't any longer, as they really don't seem to help much. IMO, it's not worth the extra work required. Nowadays, I just coat the tips with thickened and tinted epoxy.
stress on center of loom
Hi Brian,
The paddle I’m refinishing is a well used solid WRC paddle with a carbon ferrel. The maker relayed to me that it is one of the few (of probably low production #) that survived breakage at the ferrel. He stated that the issue was differences in flexibility at the juncture of ferrel to shaft of loom.
He didn’t break them, so the reason for breakage is his guess and whatever feedback he received. On my part, I’m just speculating. Another guess of mine is that most were broken by using the paddle for entry support with one end on shore, dock, rock but not floating as you recommend. Takes a bit more practice to learn to balance against the flotation of the paddle while entering and exiting the kayak, but is much better for paddle survival, and should be practiced.
Dave