Greendland paddle?

Hey everyone, new to the forum and was looking for some help. Have never used a Greenland paddle and looking to buy one. Have landed on the Gearlab Akiak 220 cm, but looking for advice on length. I can’t try the paddle before and don’t know anyone who has a Greenland style paddle. I’m about 6’2" have a Dagger Stratos (25 in width) and my current paddle is a Werner Skagit CF, believe 230 cm. Advice/opinions/help on whether the Akiak 220 cm would be too short? Like how Gearlab mentions on their website that 220 cm is the “best of both worlds, enough power while relaxing enough for long journeys”. Also like the idea of a bit more compact paddle if I can get away with it.

Thanks

220 or 225 for your height would be appropriate. Akiak is a nice paddle, but the Kalleq is, while a little more expensive, significantly lighter in weight, and worth consideration. If you want to stay under $400, the EastPole Nanuk 2 two-piece wood paddle is an excellent option.

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I second those suggestions. I have several GPs including a 220 cm Akiak and a 230 cm Eastpole Nanook 2. I have a couple of kayaks that are a little wider and the extra 10 cm is better for them. I am a lot shorter than you and need a little more length to clear the gunwales on the wider boats. You might want to get the 225 in the Eastpole. Gearlab only makes even sizes so it would be a 220 or 230. Either paddle would be a good purchase.

I have a Gear Lab Outdoors Kalleq, 230 cm. I am 6 ft. Works well, I am happy with it, in fact it is all I use now. I started with a Werner Kalliste 230cm. And, I was completely happy with that one as well.

you might consider giving your paddling location. never know who is local to you that is a Greenland paddle user. Greenland paddlers can be a quiet group. it would be good to try several before you buy, they are all different and the technique is different than that for a euro.

technique of stroke can change the length that you would prefer, and also the paddle maker you prefer. they are not all the same anymore than believing that all euros are the same.

best wishes
Roy

I agree with Roy. If you’re comfortable stating your location, you might find someone on here who can let you try one of theirs. I can say that whenever I go out using my Greenland paddle, and anyone asks about it, I’m always practically begging them to give it a try. :grin: And yes, I have a spare you can borrow.

At 6’-2", one factor of paddle length will depend on how far you sit up out of the cockpit. I have relatively shorts legs and a long torso at 6’, so we might be sitting at a similar height. I made a GP at 223cm and like how it handles. I use it with a 22" wide WS Tempest 175. However any wider boat and I think I would be wishing for a slightly longer paddle. If available, I might recommend a 225cm, and if only even lengths I would probably go for the 230cm. You probably already know that GP paddling involves a low angle style, and a number of subtle factors, from body size, boat, and preferred technique. Too bad these beautiful carbon GP paddles are a bit spendy, you could have quiver of different lengths to use.

My 2 cents worth here;

I am mostly a GL paddler. I like them and feel most comfortable in using them, especially in choppy water.

But I have a theory. An observation — which I believe bears consideration. GL paddling is most often thought of with an overview of forward paddling and going from point A to point B. BUT the overarching principal of Greenland paddling is control, and much of that for it’s use in bracing and turning.

I make them and have sold quite few to many paddlers and I have been using them for a few years now. It’s been my observation that a longer paddle then you’d choose in a euro types is more useful. Easier to use too.
One thing that a good GL paddler does is to move the paddle all over the place in his or her hands. It’s a general purpose tool, not a specialty tool. Doing ruddering with a GL paddle, it’s common to extent it. Same with most bracing strokes. I am a short man at only 5’ 6". Yet I make Greenland and Aleut paddles of 8 feet and longer for my own use.

My nephew lives in Soldotna Alaska and he made friends with a woman up there who’s husband made kayaks and paddle for years before he died, but she is still quite informative as to some of the details she learned from her husband. She told Liam (who then told me) how her husband used to measure men for paddles. It was their arm span + 1 cubit for most paddles and for “big water” (I am unsure the connotation of that phrase) he would add a hand span, from pinky to thump with maximum spread of the fingers. Also his measurement from the place on the hand where the thumb and palm meet below the index finger meet, to the 1st joint of the MIDDLE finger was how he’d make the blade width.

Using that set of measurement I find MOST commercial GL paddles made today are too small in either length or blade breath, or both. Is he right and everyone making today wrong?

I can’t say.

But what I have been told is that many commercial paddles made today are copied from existing paddles used in Greenland by champion paddlers. That may be the difference ----- insomuch as the average Inuit man is fairly small compared to the average European or American man.

But I am a student, not a master. So I am learning too. This note is not to correct anyone, but just to bring more thought to the conversation.

Even at only 5’ 6" I find 8 foot long paddle seem to just do everything better for me then the 7 foot to 7-1.2 foot paddles, and some of my Aleut paddle are 9 feet and over. Again, they work great (for all but shallow waters)

I reemphasize the way they are used is different then how most euro paddles are use. It’s proper and expected to move the GL and Alaskan paddles up and down it’s length a LOT, as you use them. If a paddle is 8 feet long and you extent it naturally and quickly, the blade is catching water much farther out from the seat of the kayak which makes for more arc in those strokes ,allowing good maneuverability with minimal stress. The planting of the GL blade in the water for many strokes is close to neutral and as the blade enters*, then* the paddle is rotated to get the desired amount of catch and purchase. The blades are long, so going deeper give more traction, and rotation more to give greater face-to-water will also gives more traction, but that is all in the control to the paddler at all times, because of how GL and Aleut paddles are used.

Anyway…food for thought.

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I have a 220 GearLab Akiak. It is a bit blunter at the tips than the more expensive GearLab paddles. And, the replaceable tips are different from the more expensive ones (you can get glow-in-the-dark tips). So, it occasionally makes a ‘ploonk’ when entering the water. I’ve used it for four years, now on our local ‘big’ river (Columbia, near Wenatchee, often with fast and nasty currents from dam releases), placid lakes, and Puget Sound and in the San Juans. I find it pleasing to use, plenty powerful to keep up with groups, easy on my 70 year old shoulders, and compact.

A major reason I chose the Akiak over a more expensive paddle is if it got lost or stolen, it’s less of a sting than a paddle half again the price.

One more thing. I read a lot about Greenland paddles, watched a plethora of YouTube, and spoke with a few people using them. I found the transition to be no big deal. But, when I occasionally go back to my Werner Euroblade I find it (the Werner) is somewhat more effort than I recalled. And, on a paddle-float self rescue, if you put your paddle end under the cockpit-most deck lines, there’s a lot of space for the paddle to ‘windshield wiper’ while you’re crawling back in. My solution has been to put a couple of pieces of strap on my deck just behind the coaming that is wide enough to comfortably slip the paddle under, but with a far more steady brace to work with.

Whichever paddle you get, enjoy the change.

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Thanks for taking the time to reply, really appreciate it. Wouldn’t call myself an advanced paddler but am not a beginner either, probably intermediate. From when I started I went by height & kayak width for paddle fit. Over the years I have read about kayakers moving to shorter paddles as they developed better paddle technique. That, along with Gearlab stating on their website 220 cm “being the best of both worlds” is what lead me to 220 cm. Also hoping that the minimal difference in length between 220 & 230 cm wouldn’t be an issue.

Have wanted a Greenland paddle for a few years but price, availablity, etc have held me back. Finally decided I am getting one. I do have the option of a 230 cm but in gloss instead of satin finish. Really want the satin finish, looks so much better to me… concerned the gloss could get a bit hotter in the sun, maybe be more reflective, and show signs of wear more. Have some more thinking to do now.

Thanks again

Mind sharing your height and kayak width when using the 220 and 230? Thanks

Mind sharing your kayak width? Thanks

Would you mind sharing your height and kayak width?

I made myself a GP from a very nice Home Depot 2x4 of Englemann Spruce. 230cm, 1063 grams, finished in tung oil. I came from a Werner all carbon 220cm paddle. I am 6-0 with tall torso paddling a Tempest 170 (22" wide). The more I use the GP the less I like the Werner, which is a very nice paddle! Hard to notice any speed difference but the GP is more comfortable for a longer paddle and the sweep stroke is amazing. Plus its pretty!

Pardon the bird poop!

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I have a Cetus, 21.5 inches wide.

This doesn’t really apply to Greenland paddles, since the entire length of the blade is useful; whereas for a European paddle any part of the shaft that’s in the water on any given stroke is just wasted energy.

FWIW I think length on a GP is more forgiving, but I also think you will only find your preference after you’ve used the paddle for a while. I started out with a 210 that I bought used and initially I thought it was the best length for me, but now it feels a bit too short. I can still totally use it though.

I’m 5 feet 7 inches (and getting shorter). My regular boat is a Current Designs 17’ Prana, 21 inches wide. I have a 14’ Pygmy Arctic Tern as my backup boat, which is 23 inches wide.

If I was buying a paddle today, I’d go with the longest available (I followed the same GearLab guidance you note; I’m happy with 220, but think 230 wouldn’t be too long). My near term plans include carving a paddle.

I’m 5’ 5" but have long legs so my upper body (seat to shoulder) is probably closer to an average 5’ 3" woman’s. I use the 230 with my 28" beam Feathercraft Java sit on top and with my 27" beam Curtis Lady Bug solo canoe. The longer paddle keeps me from banging my knuckles on the gunwales. I use the 220 paddles, and also my 213 cm custom one piece cedar GP with my touring kayaks which run from 19.5" to 24". I carry a 183 cm (72") GP storm as my deck spare, since it takes up little room and doesn’t clutter the deck.

Appreciate everyone sharing their experiences/advice. Also thanks for answering my follow ups. One last thing… paddle fit is certainly personal perference, how it fits/feels, etc and you will get a better idea after spending time using it. I keep going back & forth between how much 10 cm/3.94 inches can really affect things. It seems like such a minimal difference. I think most posts feel the 230 cm is the way to go for me. If it is possible to describe, what will the extra 10 cm provide for me? Do you feel the 220 cm will be “unusable” for me or it’s just that the 230 might be a bit better fit? Hopefully I am not rambling and making some sense.

Either one will be usable, although the shorter GP may lead you to higher angle and higher cadence stroke than with the longer one. FWIW, I talked about my experiences with 216, 210 and 200 cm GP here: Playing with GearLab Aukaneck (Surf) GP

-sing