Grumman Gunwale Repair Question

Hello everyone,

I didn’t see this question in the forum, so I thought I’d start a new thread. I’m a new paddler on a budget, and bought an old aluminum 15ft Grumman canoe online. It’s from the 1960’s and in good shape save for two small cracks in the portside gunwale. It’s still usable, but the hull is more flexible there and will undoubtedly be damaged more as time goes on. I’m looking for advice on how to best repair them (pictures included).

I assume new gunwales would be optimal, but the cost would be nearly what I paid for the canoe. Other options I’ve come across include welding the cracks, using an epoxy like JB weld, or reinforcing the area with some more aluminum and riveting/using epoxy to hold the patch in place.

As for intended uses, I’d like to rig it with a sail at some point for some fun and paddle it on some river trips. I’d like it to be as strong as possible, and definitely prioritize structural integrity over aesthetics. Any tips, previous fixes, or ideas are greatly appreciated as I’m operating in foreign waters!

I’ve included photos. The first three show the worst crack, which seems to have extended to the hull. Photos 4-6 show the second crack, which is about 14inches fore and appears to only be the gunwale. Photos 7-8 show the profile of the frame and indicate where the crack is.

Other than the cracks she floats and paddles well, and was a steal for $150! I’d love a showroom boat someday, but we gotta start somewhere.







Maybe aluminum angle from a big box, comes in various sizes, maybe one or one and a quarter inch. About a two-foot length, either bolted or riveted over the top and outside.

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This looks tricky, but certainly worth a try. I believe this boat was subject to some severe strain, likely impact or pinning. Grumman canoes normally withstand decades of all manner of “everyday abuse” without ever developing cracks. I have seen boats like this develop cracks like these from being pinned (in current), even without other obvious hull damage. The nature of the cracks makes it seem like lateral forces where involved, which does not happen during normal use. Because of that, I don’t think a “perfect” repair is needed to keep new cracks for forming, but a crappy repair won’t do.

How good are you at metal work? Someone tried to weld that first crack that’s shown, and the job was out of their league, and then some. I think a piece of angle stock attached along the top of the gunwale with the vertical flat on the outside would work. If I did this myself, I’d use steel angle stock, and I would carefully bend it to exactly fit the proper curvature of the gunwale to avoid inducing new stress. The best way to do that would be to make relief cuts and weld them closed again after setting the proper curve/shape. Most of these cuts would be needed on the horizontal flat, but there’s a bit of curvature in the vertical plane too, so some cuts would be needed on the vertical flat. I myself can’t weld (the cuts) with aluminum, hence my choice for steel (I have an aluminum Jon boat with home-built steel oarlocks bolted to the gunwales in this way, and in 30 years, much of that outside, there has been no interaction of the two metals). I would also rig up some spacer material along the inside edge of the outer (vertical) flat to accommodate the overhang of the existing gunwale material to maintain a flush contact on the outside so that bolting could be done horizontally instead of vertically, or at least so the number of vertical bolts could be kept to a minimum. Those holes for vertical bolts will be where new cracks are most likely to start, but that’s the reason for doing a really good job of matching the curvature for your reinforcing piece. It’s also a good reason to use small-diameter bolts.

You would need some experience and the right tools to do this well. Otherwise I’d look to a professional welding shop for help. A good welder will use aluminum reinforcing patches, and also will know how to minimize new stresses at the ends of said reinforcement pieces. This might cost more than you want to spend, but don’t use the purchase price of the boat as your gauge for this because you already got it for almost nothing.

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You can find a skilled person to weld it, that know aluminum.
Or you can add some 6-8 pieces of flat steel shaped to fit the gunwales and drill and bolt them in place.

If you’re thinking of adding a full-sized sail like those Grumman sold as options way back when, I’d go for the strongest fix possible. The mast is supported by a cross member and can put considerable stress on the gunwales under a stiff wind.

Sailing Grumman

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The best plan might be to use the steel to reinforce the gunwales and weld the steel plates in place. That would be especially true if you plan to put a sail on it.

How do you weld steel to aluminum? Didn’t know it was possible.

Aluminum melts if you even look at it with anger in your eyes, which really limits the processes for bonding it to other metals. Welding aluminum to steel is not possible. Even brazing of aluminum to steel is “practically” impossible (it can be done, but a quick perusal of this topic online leaves me with the impression that it’s only when using extremely specialized products and methods). Soldering would be more doable, but I doubt if it’s worth the trouble when bolting will do the job.

Also, lets not get too carried away in estimating what stresses from sailing will be. Try to envision how the mast of the sail will transfer stress to the boat. That mast will act as a lever, with the wind exerting the force on the long end of the lever, and the resultant levering action being between a thwart-like brace across the gunwales and a fitting on the keel line. It might seem possible to generate all kinds of destructive force this way, but it’s not, as I’ll try to explain below.

This setup will be most susceptible to lateral force, since that’s the weakest orientation for stress applied to the gunwales. Doesn’t this mean that the gunwales will have to be really strong to tolerate sailing in a cross wind? No. Consider what the force is that resists lateral “levering action” of the mast when subject to a cross wind. That resisting force is almost nothing, because before the lateral force on the mast increases much at all, the boat will simply roll over. The leeboard won’t provide any actual resistance to rolling over, even if it will slightly slow-down the process (the leeboard’s only purpose is to enable the sail to propel the boat forward in a cross wind because skidding sideways inline with the force of the wind is prevented). The only resistance to rollover is provided by the off-center leaning of the passengers onboard, and how much force does that generate? Not enough to break the gunwales.

The sail will be able to generate more force in the longitudinal direction, but that’s no big deal for a similar reason. It can be pointed out that the gunwales are far less susceptible to damage when stressed in a longitudinal direction, but even here, there’s a limit to how great that force can become, since the amount of resistance to a longitudinal force is limited. Picture this: If you attempted to theoretically increase the longitudinal force to an “impossible extreme”, what would happen? The boat is not anchored to the water, but easily moves through the water instead, so the boat would simply move forward at an “impossibly fast” speed. You may have even seen this be demonstrated. If you were to attach a pair of ropes to opposite thwart connections and pull with a biggest, fastest motorboat you could get your hands on, would those thwart connections break? No. The canoe would simply be towed as fast as you could make the towing vessel go, and the canoe would never be in any structural danger (towing methods that allow the canoe to broach are not applicable for this comparison). The same principle applies for the thwart-like brace supporting the mast. The longitudinal force of holding up the mast when the sail is pushed by a tailwind will never reach a point where the gunwale failure occurs, but instead, the boat will simply go faster as the force from the wind increases. Winds do occur which could break these connections, but you won’t be out sailing at those times, and if you were, you’d tip over before having the chance to break anything.

I am quite sure that even if a crappy job of repairing the broken gunwales wouldn’t likely tolerate the forces of holding up a mast for sailing, any decent repair job will be good enough (though as has been pointed out, a decent job won’t exactly be easy).

Oh! And lets not lose sight of the fact that the breaks in the gunwales are not even at the location where a mast would be installed.