Hard plastic D rings no longer made?

-- Last Updated: Jan-25-11 9:50 AM EST --

Last week I called my local paddle shop to see if they got any more of these D rings (shown) http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2449711730043436830jInzFo
I bought the last couple they had last year. Paul at Wind and Water Boatworks said he can't get them anymore. I then called BMO. Same story.

What gives? Anyone know of a supplier? These things are a nice, neat solution for composite boats.

mcmaster.com has acetal D-rings, product numbers 3781T51, 3781T52, 3781T53

A quick google search also comes with a whole list of sites.

Is it possible that paddling stores are not carrying them due to slim margins?

Seems unlikely


It’s not the metal D ring itself …

It’s the rigid plastic anchor that works with the D ring.

But, like you said it does “seem” unlikely. But nevertheless, that’s the info I have.

Oh, the bottom ones
I was looking at the top lacing rings.

I’ve successfully used 1" polypropylene webbing. Just smush some epoxy into the web, slap it on and smooth things out a bit. It wets out similar to very heavy glass.

like these…

I have a bunch of the similar small ones
first marketed by Dagger. They were designed for easy application to Royalex using Vynabond.

Trouble is, they don’t stay on. I have to use G-flex to get them to stay, and I have to push a G-flex shoulder against the wings of each pad to make sure.

Those large pads of yours have more area to adhere, but think about it… when your boat slides over a pointy rock or ledge edge, the stiffness of those pads will make them inclined to pop off.

I think that pad design is OK for the sides of the boat, where they are less likely to be subjected to differential hull distortion, but not for the bottom of the boat. On the bottom you’re better off with flexible vinyl fabric pads, or with webbing ends soaked in G-flex. Flexibility is essential where distortion may occur.

I think I’ve had the failure U described

– Last Updated: Jan-25-11 2:26 PM EST –

... on the ME in the picture. I've since re-attached with G-flex and so far so good.

My composite Shaman has the rigid plastic ones for thigh strap attachments. Two just in front of the saddle and one on each side. Interestingly none of the bottom ones have failed on that boat. But the proximity to the saddle probably greatly reduces any hull flex in that area.

And yes, I G-flex up the shoulders as you describe. Harold Deal's boat uses the 3M and he goes all the back over and covers the top of the rigid plastic with the 3M.

Lacing Rings
They look like the ones Wenonah has in their flotation bag tye-down kit. Give them a call to see if they sell them outside the kit.


I think my picture was misleading
This is the piece I was referring to. Particularly the plastic base. The metal D ring part is still available elsewhere separately.


Ah’ put 'em in me OT Tripper…

– Last Updated: Jan-25-11 3:24 PM EST –

some 25 years ago an' dems still holdin' strong - sides an' bottom. Ah'd let dem set in hot water fer a bit ta be able ta bend it ta de contour of de hull section an' then used 3M Structural Adhesive.
Ah' did have one o' de side mounted pop off about 20 years ago an' glued it back on.

Ah' think ah' still have a couple of these kickin' around somewaar.


These work?
Mostly SS D-rings, and a vinyl back rather than the mount you have now, but if this combo would work it is pretty available.





Try calling Marlin Bayes at Clipper Canoe in Abbotsford, BC.

These used to be made by Voyager. Marlin bought the mold for the smaller 1-inch plastic D-ring with a similar polycarbonate base. I don’t know if he has the mold for the larger 2-inch base, but I did get some from him back in August and I suspect he would sell you some if you just needed a few.

The bases are somewhat oversized for the typical 2" D-ring but they are easily narrowed on a grinding wheel or even just with a file.

I have had excellent results glueing these into both Royalex and composite boats using the 2-part 3M urethane structural adhesive and I have never had one let go. If the bottom of the hull at the attachment point is not absolutely flat, heat the plastic D-ring base with a heat gun and press it against the hull bottom till it cools. It will conform exactly to the shape of the hull bottom.

I have not found it necessary to “peanut butter” over the top of the base with the structural adhesive. A good film is all it takes.

Some people shied away from these in Royalex boats because they felt that the plastic base, especially when glued in with structural adhesive, was stiffer than the Royalex creating a stress riser at the edge resulting in stress cracks in the Royalex. I never personally had that happen. Shouldn’t be an issue in a composite boat anyway.

Thanks Pete!
Sent you an email …