i have a kayak sport hatch rim with a crack in it. the crack runs along the rim length about 3 inches and splits the outer lip cleanly in one spot. heavy sigh… i reckon replacing this is a nightmarish job. anyone think this is repairable with epoxy and light glass work? i can’t tell what kind of plastic the rim is, but it seems like abs.
If it’s anything but poly, then you’re
in pretty good shape. You can get West G-flex for about $16 in 4 oz bottles. Not being able to see or visualize the damage, I don’t know if you will need a little glass. G-flex will adhere a little better if the plastic is lightly flamed with a propane torch, but probably just cleaning and sanding will be enough.
What is the configuration of the crack? Is it right on a 90 degree bend? Does a hatch cover have to butt down right where the crack is? Possibly if you decide to do a G-flex only (no glass) repair, you may prefer West’s pre-thickened G-flex. But if you use glass, you’ll need the thin G-flex and a little patience to wet out the glass.
By the way, if the plastic is ABS, you can melt some Lego blocks or ABS pipe in acetone and paint it on the crack. It will fuse real nice.
really?
yes it is abs plastic. you can melt abs and spread it on the crack? this hatch is oval, with a defined lip on it. the lip is cracked through (cleanly) and the crack is met by another split, perpendicular to that one running under the lip. pain in the arse…
Yeah, you can fix it…
…but the repair won’t last. You’re going to have to replace it eventually, so you may as well just do it. If the original rim is screwed or riveted in place, don’t use them with the new one, as that’s what usually causes cracks. Just bond it to the deck with 3M 5200 and clamp it securely. Screws/rivets are just used to speed up the building process in production and are no more secure than a good bond.
I would trust BNystrom on this because
I think he’s more experienced with your kind of repair. If he says 5200 will work, it should work, though I think thickened G-flex would work also. As for melting and painting ABS, it’s been used successfully to build up worn ABS hulls, but I’ve not talked to anyone who has used it for a primary bond on a crack.
how the heck do i get the thing off!
seriously, i can’t see how it’s possible.
Removing a hatch ring
– Last Updated: Sep-11-09 8:45 AM EST –
They are usually bonded in place with a flexible sealant. One way to remove them is to work a thin steel wire under the ring, then saw back and forth through the sealant as you work the wire around the ring. An alternative is to work a thing putty knife or other blade between the deck and the ring, then work your way around it. You can also just cut the rim in several places and pry it off carefully a piece at a time.
If the original sealant is well bonded to the deck, there is no imperative to remove it. You can apply the new sealant over it. If the bond is sketchy, scrape it off as best you can before installing the new ring.
If the rim is installed with epoxy, you'll have to cut off the vertical section, then use a sander to sand off the base of the ring.
hatch
What kayak do you have? Most plastic kayaks tend to have the rim molded in with the kayak, and then the rubber hatch fits over that rim.
Kajak Sport hatches…
…are not integral with the deck. They use a separate ring that’s bonded and sometimes screwed or riveted in place.
Kayak Sport Vivaine
with nice, huge hatchs