I count the remaining days of open water that also have “open” status administratively. Due to the need for staffing AIS inspections, our season here is artificially shortened to late October or early November.
Winterization simply means cleaning and storing the kayaks.
SPRINGization will, however, require that I replace old perimeter lines and bungies, and try again to adjust the skeg. It no longer retracts fully even with the slider in retraction position. Do skeg cables stretch like bicycle cables do? This one is 8 years old.
Coincidentally, have been messing the skeg cable in my Mystic. I doubt the cable can stretch much, being a full 1/8" thick and nearly twice the diameter of a bike cable. Likewise, my skeg was not retracting fully. I unscrewed the machine screw in the skeg control knob and then pulled out the skeg cable. Turned out I had probably run aground without fully retracting the skeg on a landing. The skeg cable had a couple of to 25-30 degree bends. This was enough to create binding of the cable within the tube housing to preclude full retraction. Took two needled nose pliers to work the kinks out as much as possible. I reinserted the cable through the tube housing and was able hand pull the cable to fully retract the skeg. What I am struggling with now is actually re-inserting the cable through the control knob and then into another tube housing in the front of the skeg control box. I managed to kink the front end of the cable trying to get through the knob and the front housing. Now I have friction and resistance in the front of the skeg cable…
More fudging around tonight.
Drat! I probably did the same thing, landed without the skeg completely retracted. Never did it with the skeg deliberately deployed, but I suppose even a little protrusion could cause kinking.
I had previously loosened the screw in the control knob but did not remove it entirely. I was afraid I would not be able to reasemble if the knob fell off. I’m going to hold off on further attempts until after the reservoir is closed. The skeg still works (with more resistance than it had years ago). I wonder if something corroded between the cable and what appears to be the metal housing that the knob is attached to.
Good luck, and post a follow-up here, if you don’t mind.
Thanks for the info!
I just finished. It’s working like almost new. So, I couldn’t quite straighten up the cable in the front end of the skeg control box. The cable kept bending as it re-entered into that front housing tube and created enough friction that I could not push the knob all the way forward to retract the skeg. Finally, I reached inside the cockpit and cut about 5" off the 8" long tube. This reduced enough friction to allow the control knob and skeg cable to slide freely, restoring full range of skeg deployment/retraction. However, I had to glue and tape up a piece of the cut-off tubing to the end of the protruding cable (where the individual wires act like needles) to avoid getting any accidental impalement in the future.
Anyway, I am glad that I didn’t end up having to replace the cable, as it was not too badly kinked and/or frayed. A 7’ piece of skeg cable from Harmony is around $20. Looking around, I found a more cost effective option is which is to buy 100’ of the same type of wire for deck cable fences. It’s less than twice the price of the Harmony cable and offers multiple repair. You’ll have to get a good bike cable cutter if you don’t already have one.
Good luck with your repair. Pulling out the skeg cable from the aft end was not hard at all (for my situation). I just have to pull enough (about 4-5’) to expose the kinks right near the skeg connection and to straighten that out. I then lubed to pushed the cable all the way back into the housing. Silicone lube spray helped.