I have a plastic WS Tempest 170, and have taken the footpegs out, in order to move the front bulkhead back as my foot rest. What is the best glue to use to hold it in place??
Thanks!
Becky… :o)
sealant for bulkhead
use lexel clear sealant to seal it, that’s what
it was sealed with from the factory, most true value hardware stores sell it.
hang on
Using a generic foam bulkhead in a rotomolded boat as a footrest is not a good idea because i bet you’ll push it out with your feet in no time,nothing sticks to poly good enough to give you that strong reliable bond.
Also, if you moved your bulkhead back you should probably replace it with a slightly bigger one because the further back you move the wider the hull gets.
I think your best bet if you’re set on moving the bulkhead back is to make a new bulkhead and make or adapt a whitewater bulkhead-style footbrace,use the rear pair of original footbrace holes to mount it, and then build a new bulkhead and install it in front of the new footbrace.
modified bulkhead
I had already modified the bulkhead to move backwards (added more foam around it), and ran beads of silicon on both sides of it to seal. I took it out today (the silicon hadn’t quite cured - nothing like starting a project when you don’t have enough time), and as you said, I ended up pushing it forward. That’s why I was wondering if gluing it in would help, and if so, the type of glue needed. That’s a good idea on the brace, a friend of mine recommended similar. I’ve already filled the old footpeg holes, but easy enough to re-drill if needed.
yep
find an old ww bulkhead system. aldercreek.com has a bunch up in their attic.
this is the only way to get enough support short of doing a plywood sandwich. If you were to build up your foam with 2 pieces of 1/2" plywood, cut perfectly to fit the shape of the interior, one fwd and one aft of the foam and laminate the whole mess together with contact cement. Then slide 'er in and push it down till it gets wedged, snug. add foam if needed, and hopefully it goes down fir 'nough! 
I did this once. It took a buttload of time. energy. glue and it weighted 2 lbs more. well maybe not 2 but it was heavy and sturdy.
steve
ww bulkhead
Thanks Steve… I was hoping that you would see this thread!! I’m not familiar with a ww bulkhead. Is it just bolted in to the boat? Would using 1/4" plywood, with the foam glued to that, attached to say “L” brackets bolted into the boat work?? Of course I need my boat functional by next Saturday, with no time to drive to Portland (I’m in Lacey, WA). Worse case scenerio, I can always put the footpegs back in, and re-set the bulkhead where it belongs.
yep
they just bolt in like the original footbraces. adjust with wing nuts. quite nice.
Next day UPS?
I wouldn’t rec the sandwich. too much work/weight.
steve
ww bulkhead
Thanks Steve. So what could I expect to pay for those thru AlderCreek?? And if just ask for the ww bulkhead system, they’ll know what I want?
nothing to it
– Last Updated: Dec-24-06 3:42 AM EST –
Just build your own bulkhead style footbrace. really nothing to it. All you need is to get two pieces of bendable aluminum flatbar or strips of sheet aluminum if you can find(about 1.25-1.5 inches wide), bend the ends(last 4-5 inches) at 90 degrees. The third main part is the footboard. It should be roughly the shape of the bulkhead so it doesn't flop aroundin there. Material of the footboard is up to you, decent 1/2'' plywood being the easiest, i personally would use aluminum with some lightening holes and some stick on anti slip tape-doesn't need to be painted and doesn't absorb water.
Now, bolt the bent ends of the flatbar to the footboard. Almost done. Slide the footboard into the boat, sit in it, and mark where to drill the holes for the bolts that attach them to the hull. Drill, cut off the extra length and bolt in. you're done. All you need for this project is a jigsaw and a drill and about an hour's time, most of which will be fitting things.
P.S. Sources of aluminum- Home Depot,Metal stores, Scrap yards, Aluminum boat manufacturers. Listed in order from most to least expensive. you want to avoid...i think 6061 grade for flatbar because it's somewhat springy but it'll crack instead of bending nicely like you want.
$15-20
I would guess. They got a bunch and they’re pretty generic.
try buyer@aldercreek.com
tell 'em steve/flatpick sent ya!
steve
thanks guys!
I’m leaning towards just making my own… but I might call around and see what’s available closer to home. Thanks so much for all your suggestions.
Becky… :o)