I recently installed a hullavator on my Honda Accord. My problem is that the car is so low that when I load the kayak, I have to crawl under and search for the release levers, because they are so low to the ground, and then it’s very awkward the first few seconds I pull them pull them. I’d be curious to hear from other small car owners? It looks like this: Thule Hullavator demo at EP/BC Martinsburg, WV - YouTube
I have a Honda Fit and a Hullavator. While I do have to squat to get to the levers, it’s not a big deal.
Could my itty-bitty Fit be taller than your Accord?
How do you like the Fit? Considering purchasing a used one. (Sorry for the thread hijack!)
@Doggy_Paddler
It’s been a wonderful vehicle. Took delivery late December 2015 on the 2016 six-speed. Get great mileage, averaging 41-42 and sometimes getting up to 48 mpg. Versatile interior for cargo and with a good set of four snow tires, handles nicely in snow and ice.
Sorry, another temporary thread hijack. My wife has a 2020 Fit. Same general comments as Rookie. Her’s has the auto transmission (CVT) and averages around 38 MPG in suburban driving. Front legroom is weak though if you’re taller.
FYI, Thule fit kit 141751 is the one specified for 480 Traverse feet. That’s discontinued so no longer listed in the fit guide. Fit kit 145152 is specified for the new EVO feet. Those numbers apply to the last generation Fit 2015-2020.
Thanks, Rookie, that’s great to know! And thanks also to Wolf.
Do you really need a Hullavator on that low of a car? Unless you have a very heavy kayak, that’s a lot of money to spend.
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It’s not a matter of the car, it’s a matter of the person’s strength- like you said, the weight/length of the kayak.
I am a small woman with a 16.5 ft fathom, and I’ve used a Thule slipstream for about 20 years. I think if you’re a big strong person, you can do the sliding up on the slipstream easily, but for me it was always a struggle.Twice my kayak slid off, while i was putting it on, and I’m the kind of person who will jump in front of the kayak to cushion it! I have scars on my nose and my shoulder and back pains from that nuttiness! Also the kayak knocked off my side mirror.
I kayak in the winter, and when a cold kayak falls, it shatters. Also it’s not good for a kayak to rest on the bow or stern, while you lift the other end up, to slide up.
I love my hullavator, (why did I wait so long?) and I’m getting used to reaching way down to find those release handles.
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Why not use a well engineered product that makes loading a boat to the roof of your vehicle easy, efficient and quick? No boat wrestling with the Hullavator; just load, lift, tie down and you’re ready to go.
Lots of money is spent on quality light-weight paddles for the same reason: efficiency. 
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I wrestle with how to move forward on this car-topping decision AND I wrestle with boats! Here’s what puts me off the Hullavator, which I haven’t bought yet: expense, the trouble and weight of removing it between uses, it’s a single use (kayak) item.
I am a thrifty old hippie who has trouble lifting boats so I bought a folding canoe (it’s good) but also want a sea kayak.
I saw on Youtube a homemade system of moveable pins that march up 2 planks that lean against the car. You get one end up on the first 2’ long pin, then put the other end up on next pin that’s a little higher up, and continue alternating until you get to the Shove onto (in my case) Yakima strap-on padded roof racks. (They are excellent.)
Has anyone tried this? Do you have recommendations for the best materials? Did you feel like a complete idjit using this technique whilst others are Hullavating?
Thanks very much in advance, and you are also welcome to tell me to get over myself and buy a Hullavator. (A Yakima Rack ‘n’ Roll trailer also seems great but is expensive as well and involves learning a new skill.)
There are a lot load assist approaches available. One of the regular people here on the forum, bud16415), has a home made system similar to what you described for loading a canoe. With a longer kayak like a sea kayak, you can often also leave the stern on the ground and lift just the bow up onto the roof to help with loading. There are devices available that help you load this way from the rear of the car. If you like the DIY approach, you can also do what do and load from the side. I connected the ends of my Thule cross bars with another bar. I slide the kayak up and then pivot it into position. There’s a removable upright post that helps keep the kayak in place while I slide it up and pivot it. It’s not the only option, and might not be for everyone, but it works for me.
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Awesome, Wolf! More than one way to skin a cat! You have inspired me to think about what I’d need to make your approach work for me. Thanks for responding.
Each Hullavator cradle weighs only 15#. They’re easy to carry and install.
Not telling you to buy one. Just want to set the record straight about the weight.
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Thanks, Rookie.
I appreciate getting your response to an old thread!
Here is the above mentioned solution I use with a pretty heavy canoe. It walks right up using the end to end method or I normally just push/pull it one step at a time. Sure you will look funny but who cares. The biggest problem is people wanting to help you.
On a kayak longer pins that you could pull out might work well.
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Another diversion off topic, but if you are looking at getting a sea kayak, consider the PakBoat Quest 150 folding kayak. I’ve got the earlier smaller version and it performs favorably compared to my way more costly Feathercraft Wisper sea kayak, also is lighter (under 30 pounds) and easier to assemble. I’m another “thrifty old hippie” and like having boats light enough that I can swing them onto the roof rack with one hand. The Quests are sleek and fast and have a very comfortable seat design.
There has been a recent boom in new high performance folding kayak models including by companies like Nautiraid, but it’s hard to beat the lightness and price point of PakBoats. It’s around $2000 to buy one with the add-on rigid adjustable foot peg assembly plus a pair of inflatable floatation bags.
There are some YouTube videos of the Quests out in open water that illustrate the model’s seaworthiness. I’ve found it takes about 20 to 30 minutes to assemble mine, but I often leave it set up for the season. Of course a folding kayak has the added bonus of being easy to store in a closet or check as baggage for airline travel. I’ve taken mine to Europe with me and carried it after assembly on the roof of a rental car using a Malone H2O inflatable rack.
No deck lines bothers me. If you can hold your paddle and do a self rescue it’s OK, but there’s no deck lines to put a paddle under for a float rescue. Assisted rescues look like you’ll be limited to the skin on frame versions as another kayaker doesn’t have a whole lot to grab onto to stabilize the swimmer’s kayak. Of course a roll solves both issues.
Do y’all have rescue techniques that are particular to foldable? Just curious because I may need to help someone out at some point.
What folding canoe did you get?
I got the Solo2 by MyCanoe (PopUp canoe). I got it on sale at the beginning of the year. It fits in the trunk of a Honda Accord nicely. I have no complaints and it sure has been nice to get out on the water. Also nice to just lift it up over my head to dump water out.
Other thoughts: It’s not featherweight when folded and is like carrying a very heavy thick artist’s portfolio. I would not want to have to carry it far (along with PFD, paddle, and gear). MyCanoe sells a shoulder carrying strap. I made my own; it helps.
I grew up kneeling while paddling and was told by the company you can paddle this kneeling. Not completely true. To do so, you have to leave flat the seat that is designed to fold up into place, so it leaves the interior of the canoe empty with no place to brace. I put in my homemade kneeling seat (made so one can rest bum on the homemade seat while kneeling; lower than a normal canoe seat) and it threw off the balance of the boat competely. The MyCanoe seat is very low, your center of gravity is very low, and kneeling higher up made it tippy. So I went back to the as-designed seat. The low seat and outstretched legs could be uncomfortable. (You can buy an additional seat with back and straps for bracing feet from MyCanoe.)
Rocks when launching , deadheads below the surface, or pointy dog claws could poke a hole right through the sides of the canoe, so you have to keep that in mind. (They include a repair kit: tape. Hilarious but sensible.)
Both bow and stern, when you fold them up and close the clasps to hold them in place, still have a little gap at the prows. This has made me hesitate to launch into bigger waves on the Chesapeake Bay when I didn’t have a sponge-type bailer with me.
To me, canoes are and should be works of art. The pleasing and clever design of the Solo2 fulfills my aesthetic needs.
I wish I had taken the idea of a folding canoe seriously years ago!
Thanks, willowleaf. Serious food for thought.