Ok, so I just received a set of hully rollers and was perusing the instructions (link to it below so you can follow along if I don’t describe it correctly):
On step 8, they show a warning where you shouldn’t loop the straps on the outside of the roof rack rail - but instead all loops under the crossbar should be made on the INSIDE of the roof rack rail. (hope that made sense)
I don’t think I’ll be able to do this with my vehicle. Since I’ll be laying two kayaks flat, I’ll probably have some overhang on each side, necessitating me to loop outside the rail.
My question: do all of you follow this step 8, or are you forced to loop outside the rack rail? And if so, have you had any negative effects from it? I don’t know why it’s a big deal to loop outside the rail. Maybe they are concerned that the loop could work it’s way to the end of the crossbar and “unloop” completely from the rack.
Thanks for any/all advice
just about everybody loops on the outside who carries more than one boat. Just don’t tell your insurance company that if you have an accident!
yes and here is killling tow birds
Yes I loop around the outside. Then I tie a knot behind the buckle in case the cam fails and loop the extra material around the rail and tie it off. this holds the loop that goes around the boat close to the rail.
Bow and stern loops and I never worry!
I personally feel comfortable about looping the straps on the open end of the x-bar, but I have teh Yakima end-caps that feature a nubbin to prevent the strap from sliding off.
If you don’t want to buy the new stoppers, try this: As you are facing the vehicle, adjust the strap so that it runs from the buckle AWAY from you, over the boat, around the bar, back over the boat towards you, under the bar near you, around the bar AGAIN, and up to the buckle. When you thread the buckle and pull down on the free end the strap will slide at the far side of the bar, but the extra wrap near you will keep the strap stationary. When tight, the extra wrap should also prevent an unintended slide-off when you are cornering on two wheels! As always, bow & stern lines are cheap insurance.
Loops outside the support bar can slide off the end of the bar if they loosen or if the kayak moves sideways due to wind or a sharp turn. Better to take the tie-down strap inside the support even if it means going under the kayak to do it. Also tie a few half hitches in the end of the tie-down strap in case the buckle slips. Tie off the end of the strap so it can’t beat the boat up as you drive or fray itself useless in the wind.
Yakima makes an end cap called strap caps. They have a screw in the end that as you tighten it the inside expands to hold it in place and a long lip to keep straps from sliding over the cap.Very secure. I think they are about 10 bucks. I’ve used them for a few years and they work well. Peace Joel
Has that got something to do…
…with the hully rollers?
I have been using the outside of the bar for a long time when I am carrying our two yaks.
If you are using camelock straps, and you cinch them down tight, and if you once or twice a year give the little springs in them a shot of silicon lubricant, and then if you check them for tightness each time you use them, there is no way that they will loosen up.
Straps and Hully Rollers
I have two yaks that I carry with Hully rollers. I don’t have the instructions handy (will check tonight) but I think I know the problem you are referring to.
If the boat extends outside past the towers, the strap needs to loop under and around the towers to be safe. On the middle, inside of the boat, the strap will just go around the rack bar. On the outside, make sure that the strap not only wraps around the bar, but also wraps under and around the tower mount (where the rack bar meets the roofline). This way, it can’t accidentally work loose and slide off the end of the bar.
I hope this makes sense?