Forecast is for Lee to track up between the east coast and Bermuda next week as a major hurricane. Let’s hope it stays on a “fish storm” path.
Nevertheless, Lee is going to bring epic wave action up the entire east coast. Recent Hurricane Idalia, a weaker storm, resulted in at least 8 drowning deaths up the east coast as a result of rip currents. Here is someone who lucked out:
Choose when and where to paddle and play safely next week.
Serious question. Is there any normal course of swimming instruction that teaches people how to stay calm in a rip tide, save energy and gradually extricate themselves? I fully understand that the occasional baby rip l got caught in along the NJ shore was less powerful than some along places like the California coast. But the principles remain the same.
Happily in this story the rescuer was able to rescue the other person without drowning themselves. But sadly the more common story is that the rescuer gets into as much or worse trouble than the rescuee.
I been too damned close to too many hurricanes through my life. All I know of them is that you will know what they will do after they do it. No weather pewk is going to tell them where to go.
East coast paddlers should pick your venues carefully THIS WEEK. Make honest assessments of your physical conditioning and skills and, if applicable, those of your partners, and match these up with where you choose to go out so that it is fun, perhaps challenging, but not life threatening.
Hear hear. Rip tide threat seems to be staying steady on.
Thanks, sing, fun to watch.
I think if you’re going to use bungies to hold things down in the surf, you should be able to cinch the bungies tight after placing items under them (eg: olive cleat).
There’s been steady long period swell out there, albeit rising and ebbing depending on the storms. Right now, we are getting 1’ plus of 14 seconds. I suspect this is coming for TS Margot out in the mid Atlantic. The Southeast is seeing building long period swells from Hurricane Lee. These won’t start to show until Thursday or Friday, depending on Lee’s speed coming up.
The rip currents from groundswells are stronger than that from local wind waves. I can feel these even when surfing modest 2-3’ swells. I have been able to zip out fast through the break zone by using the rips. At the same time, I have surfed into a rip and all of sudden it feels like I hit molasses. If I don’t start paddling aggressively, I end up losing the wave in those rip currents.
Part of being an experienced surfer is being able to recognize the rips and to use and avoid as appropriate. Newbies and/or casual beach goers get literally sucked in because they think that relatively flat area (a rip current) in the midst of the breaking wave action is the “safe spot” (NOT!).
Certainly a test of his equipment and setup. Noting when this video was posted, I suspect he was getting decent groundswells from either Hurricane Emily or Franklin (both “fish storms” that went up the north Atlantic). As he noted himself, he wasn’t sure if he was physically all there after a laid off. Getting stuck inside the breakzone and “gassing out” is a not a good feeling, never mind dealing with errant gear (personally, I rather have my spare behind me, locked in between my coaming and the paddle saddle).
Swells in the 2’ and 12 second range are rolling into MassBay. I think these are still from TS Margot and not yet Hurricane Lee which is too far south and blocked by the “arm” of Cape Cod.
Still, should be good stuff for another practice session tomorrow.
Looks like Lee is going to pay New England a visit…
Don’t know if it’s from mid-Atlantic Hurricane Margot, or upcoming Hurricane Lee, but we have 3’ swells in the 12-13 second range rolling in.
Going to grab some the building waves today. Onshore winds pick up tomorrow and by Saturday, its “victory at sea” conditions with huge blown out waves as Lee makes its closest pass to MA, on it’s way to Bay of Fundy.
Definitely getting forerunner swells from Hurricane Lee. 2.5-3’ @ 13-14 seconds. Fun, fun waves with some zip to 'em.
The “DANGER - Rip Currents!” warning was flashing. Like the waves, the rips have some zip too!
Really missed by lost blue Seda composite helmet. But the new carbon WSRI carbon Trident" helmet is pretty comfortable, albeit heavier, and provides a good brim for sun protection for the eyes. Don’t have to wear a cap underneath as previously with the Seda. Wish I still have the Seda but…
Oh… got a nice prop! Surfer came up when I was done. Said, “Was watching you. You surfed better with your kayak than most of the boardies out there!”
Doesn’t really matter as long as i don’t run or get runned over. Still, took the compliment graciously.
Wow…Jeeze… Wish I was still out there!!!
Was lucky to get an early “long lunch break” in… Thank goodness for remote work!
Preparing mentally for Sunday, post Lee swells. Haven’t taken a major beatdown in awhile on my waveski. But, there haven’t been any big/good waves in quite while either.
From jet plane to submarine in two seconds. That was some pretty awesome carnage. A lot of tasty waves there too. I think my Glory Days are past and gone. I’m out of the water with an infection I got in my leg helping my wife in her garden. We are looking to move to Utah full time this fall so my surf is probably going to be pretty limited to visits with my son.
It looks like the storm track may be ideal for you sing, close enough to make some good waves but not close enough to do any damage.
I’m glad I’m not in Yarmouth though.
Wow. That’s huge. I know you are from Utah orginally. But, won’t you miss the coast? Guess you can take up up mountain biking and skiing. Think I was at Salt Lake once or twice in the 90s for meetings. I remember heading over to Park City for some skiing after work. I don’t think I have ever seen fluffy powder like that. In the east, we get denser and wetter snow generally.
My nephew moved to San Diego this past spring. I think he said he wanted to try SUPing. He is an athlete but mostly focused on team sports – volleyball, basketball and baseball. I find a lot of “team sport” players don’t seen as inclined towards loner activities. (shrug)
So, actually I (and other surfers) would be happier with Lee tracking farther to the east, say another 5 degrees of longitude. This would be a true “fish storm” track, where Lee would skirt just east of Nova Scotia and New Foundland. This usually results in a longer window of waves, without the impact of the windfield. Even as a “fish storm” travels away, it continues to send pulses of swells back to New England albeit smaller.
As it stands now, Lee’s track brings it too close to New England. We’ll get huge waves but also Lee’s strong onshore winds that will really make it messy. By Sunday, as Lee travels into Nova Scotia, we’ll still get small window of residual swells and maybe offshore winds (which helps to clean up the wavefaces). But, it’ll disappear fairly quickly because Lee would be over land and no longer imparting energy into the water column as it would out at sea.
East coast surfers really have to develop a good understanding of the storm patterns and tracks because usually our surf windows are 2-3 days at best. Also, have to be willing and able to clear out the schedule and jump on the waves when they are here. I think we more persistent than west coast surfers because of this. But, then in the same vein, the Great Lake surfers are even more gung-ho and die hard to get what they can, when they can!
Yeah All Things Must Pass. The plan has been for a long time to retire and live on our farm my wife inherited from her parents. Selling the house here has always been part of our retirement plan. If my oldest son stays in the Bay Area we may buy a tiny house or trailer near Santa Cruz but I’m not counting on that happening right now. There are lots of great places to paddle where we will be, some whitewater, but we will see. Long ago it was my dream to be a ski bum when retired, maybe I’ll be a powder hound again, if the bones and arthritis will let me.