Hurricane Lorenzo briefly hit cat 4 yesterday – fortunately out in the middle of the Atlantic. The impact is nice long period groundswell flowing across the Atlantic. We have been getting 15 plus second swells for several days now. I was able to rearrange my schedule and got in a dawn patrol this morning. Nice chest high swells with plenty of zip for 100 yard plus rides. Never more than 6-7 of us out in the line-up. Plenty of rides to go around.
An extra-tropical fish storm is brewing between Bermuda and the east coast. Looks like we will be getting 12 second interval, head plus swells this weekend.
Liking the Infinity more and more. Wasn’t sure what a large single center fin performance would be on a waveface. But, the 8" fin holds the face well and still allow the longboard to be loose enough to make quick cutbacks – faster (I think) than the Island Longbord with the sidebite fins). It’s been while since I surfed the Island Longboard since I still haven’t repaired the three holes left by an unfortunate ride too far into the homebreak (rocky) shore about 2 years ago. Getting lazy with repair work.
The current ocean storm is expected to generate swells upto 20’ in the next couple of days. Too much for me… Will have to wait til the end of the weekend to get the more manageable head highs for me.
