Hurricane Lorenzo - Fish Storm Swells

Hurricane Lorenzo briefly hit cat 4 yesterday – fortunately out in the middle of the Atlantic. The impact is nice long period groundswell flowing across the Atlantic. We have been getting 15 plus second swells for several days now. I was able to rearrange my schedule and got in a dawn patrol this morning. Nice chest high swells with plenty of zip for 100 yard plus rides. Never more than 6-7 of us out in the line-up. Plenty of rides to go around.

Got in almost three hours. towards the end, swells dropped down to about waist to chest high, but still a bit of fun to them.

Perfect way to end the day. Something to remember and appreciate.

Hoping for more this weekend but forecasted from a local system with shorter period and messier waves.



Fifteen seconds is an eternity. Just checked my local Lake MI buoy: three foot waves at four seconds.

Glad you had such nice rides.

An extra-tropical fish storm is brewing between Bermuda and the east coast. Looks like we will be getting 12 second interval, head plus swells this weekend.



Looks really nice. Also forgot you got an infinity ski - mine is 9 years old and I am glad I spent the bucks to have it custom made.

Liking the Infinity more and more. Wasn’t sure what a large single center fin performance would be on a waveface. But, the 8" fin holds the face well and still allow the longboard to be loose enough to make quick cutbacks – faster (I think) than the Island Longbord with the sidebite fins). It’s been while since I surfed the Island Longboard since I still haven’t repaired the three holes left by an unfortunate ride too far into the homebreak (rocky) shore about 2 years ago. Getting lazy with repair work.

The current ocean storm is expected to generate swells upto 20’ in the next couple of days. Too much for me… Will have to wait til the end of the weekend to get the more manageable head highs for me.