Read gnarely blog but he really doesn’t answer anything with facts. More personal preferences.
I wanted to try exfriends paddle but X complicates that now
@PaddleDog52 said:
I wanted to try exfriends paddle but X complicates that now
Carve one for you to try. They aren’t hard to make, and don’t require much in the way of tools. Just some time and patience.
I’ve made three now. I didn’t use one at the time I made the first one. Now I’ll usually take both with me and paddle maybe 40% GP, 60% Euro.
Time is the problem 
@PaddleDog52 said:
Inuits had no choice so they used what they had.
While it’s true that they used what they had, it was not a limitation, as they used trees that landed on their shores. There is a common misconception that all they had was small driftwood, but that’s simply not true. Otherwise, they never could have built kayaks for hunting and the much larger Umiaks used for transport.
@PaddleDog52 said:
Yes some like them for a number of reasons easier on arms, easier to roll with, not high angle,
GPs can be used at any angle. In that regard, they’re probably the most versatile paddle design.
@PaddleDog52 said:
how would you measure blade on GP paddle? I see blade width listed and loom length not blade length. How much h of the paddle is in the water up to the loom? I can’t remember from videos I have.
Measuring the blade _length _is easy, you just subtract the loom length from the overall length, then divide by 2. Measuring the blade _area _is more complicated, due to the taper of the blade. How much of the blade is in the water depends on the paddler’s technique. In my case, my hands are in the water on every stroke, so the full blade length is in the water. If you paddle with a sliding stroke, the full length of the blade is in the water, and then some. If your hands stay out of the water, some of the blade does, too.
@PaddleDog52 said:
Time is the problem
You can’t find 8 hours over some period of your life? You don’t have to make a paddle all in one sitting.
Probably could have built one in the time all these posts took. Usually takes me about 3 hours , but I have an electric planer.
Going back to the OP original question, I’m surprised no one mentioned a wing paddle. If speed is what you desire, a wing paddle is the way to go. There is a reason all racers use them!
@string said:
Probably could have built one in the time all these posts took. Usually takes me about 3 hours , but I have an electric planer.
Yes that would be an advantage.> @bnystrom said:
@PaddleDog52 said:
Inuits had no choice so they used what they had.While it’s true that they used what they had, it was not a limitation, as they used trees that landed on their shores. There is a common misconception that all they had was small driftwood, but that’s simply not true. Otherwise, they never could have built kayaks for hunting and the much larger Umiaks used for transport.
@PaddleDog52 said:
Yes some like them for a number of reasons easier on arms, easier to roll with, not high angle,GPs can be used at any angle. In that regard, they’re probably the most versatile paddle design.
@PaddleDog52 said:
how would you measure blade on GP paddle? I see blade width listed and loom length not blade length. How much h of the paddle is in the water up to the loom? I can’t remember from videos I have.Measuring the blade _length _is easy, you just subtract the loom length from the overall length, then divide by 2. Measuring the blade _area _is more complicated, due to the taper of the blade. How much of the blade is in the water depends on the paddler’s technique. In my case, my hands are in the water on every stroke, so the full blade length is in the water. If you paddle with a sliding stroke, the full length of the blade is in the water, and then some. If your hands stay out of the water, some of the blade does, too.
Yes I can see loom minus balance of paddle /2 but not really what area is working.
I really don’t want my hands in the water especially in the winter.
They were limited to shape by materials they used unlike modern composites.
@Andy_Szymczak said:
Going back to the OP original question, I’m surprised no one mentioned a wing paddle. If speed is what you desire, a wing paddle is the way to go. There is a reason all racers use them!
From what I have read wing is 3 percent gain. Not worth it to me to lose in other areas.
@bnystrom said:
@PaddleDog52 said:
Time is the problemYou can’t find 8 hours over some period of your life? You don’t have to make a paddle all in one sitting.
Just post when driving on Long Island Expressway.
I did watch Nigel Foster video I have on forward stroke. Covered GP a little bit slso wing.
Okay just got back from trying out the Corryvreckens and well I have to admit it…you guys were right…the 210cm is the winner over the 220cm. Both give me much more torque and more speed from what I had previously however man that 220cm really kinda wore me down over the 210cm. Now I was also Kayaking in horrible weather with high winds but it looks like I am keeping the 210cm. 
…or maybe upgrade to the all carbon version?..just a thought.
@PaddleDog52 said:
Blade just below the surface as stated above and if your paddle is to long you will tire faster and it will slow you cadence.
This is EXACTLY what would happen when I used the 220cm paddle. I actually had a friend by the docks I would actually Kayak with the 220cm Corryvrecken with a decent cadence (BTW Cadence is still a term I am learning…I believe this just means tempo or the speed at which I paddle to keep the Kayak at a certain pace correct?) and then as I passed by him he would quickly take the 220cm from me and throw me the 210cm Corryvrecken and I would immediately continue and everytime I noticed right off the bat that everything felt better…same speed and torque only my cadence or whatever that is called felt so much smoother and natural. The best part is with the shorter 210cm paddle my shoulders and whole body for that matter felt so much better and did not tire out as quick as it would with the 220cm. I spent 3 hours on the water trying out both paddles vigirously and again…the 210cm Corryvrecken wins all day long…and night if I had some lights.
Thanks again for the advice everyone and I am sorry that I did not believe any of you who were saying I need a shorter paddle.
I feel really good right now as it has been a while since I have been able to Kayak due to our weather but right after the 3 hour mark the storms came in…so everything worked out perfectly.
Cool enjoy now drypak your phone for times. You can even set the screen to see immediately see your speed.
Then try a faster kayak like 22" wide or less X 17’+ to really feel the difference.
@PaddleDog52 said:
Then try a faster kayak like 22" wide or less X 17’+ to really feel the difference.
Hey as long as I can fit in it I’ll go for it.
you’ll love it!
Unless your stroke looks like this, you probably dont need a bigger paddle
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=70XD4roNlmY
Also, a great cheap paddle:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/carbon-kayak-paddle-mid-wing-paddle-bag/582942338.html?spm=2114.10010108.1000014.7.XMrGcT&scm=1007.13338.50051.0&pvid=42ff8145-e2be-4f52-ae41-fadf900d0ac8&tpp=1
Also, look into a faster boat, like an Epic V7 or something along those lines.
As the wise have told you, a larger blade is almost certainly not the answer you seek. Invest in stroke training, a good paddle, and a skinnier boat.
Wow, that’s some serious precision and properly applied power. Just to get so little splash with such rapid entries is a minor miracle in itself.