Can you get inflatable shocks for the Subbie?
I used to use those when I hauled a heavy trailer, you pump up the pressure and add rigidity for towing. Take the trailer off and let the pressure off, for the ride.
The Subaru hitch is fairly high up. The receiver hides behind the bumper when not in use.
So that’s 17" in the photo.
Some run air bags. I’ve seen reasons NOT to on the Ascent Forum, but also, that didn’t make too much sense to me at that time. And… we leave on our trip in about 2 weeks…
In the past I have strapped my CD Solstice GTHV across the coaming without any damage to the coaming. With Hulivator racks I would think that the risk of damaging the coaming would be even further reduced. If it were me, I’d at least give it a try, see if the kayak is secure and go for a drive around the block, see if the kayak still feels secure after a short trip.
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I have strapped over a combing before, but I don’t have a fiberglass boat…
How about using your hand tools to make a wooden stiffener that fits over the combing where you strap it? Pad it where it touches the kayak, so it does not scratch the fiberglass.
I’m more concerned about cracking the coaming than it not being secure. Then again, I cinch mine down pretty tight, British Fibersteel is pretty strong. At least I think it its made of steel since it weighs so much…
I think I found the perfect tow vehicle for putting long boats up. Was parked next to this just now…
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If the air-lift (inflatable) shocks make you leery, there are heavy duty shocks made for the Ascent that will help compensate when pulling a trailer.
There are also spring inserts to keep the spring from being crushed all the way down.
These are a lot cheaper than air-lift but will make your ride like a truck when not pulling that trailer.
It has been an active spring, weather wise, so balancing your load will be a lot safer.
See https://www.ascentforums.com/threads/towing-rear-axle-sag.10060/post-146846
but to quote it:
And you WANT some rear squat (to the Ascent’s load limits, or less) - (what you want is the rear to be able to compress without bottoming due to load, instead of being stiff and becoming a fulcrum). Without it, the rear becomes a fulcrum sooner than later, lifting the front. The front weighs more than the rear, which counterbalances tongue/rear cargo weight. That pushes the fulcrum effect farther out. The springs giving, push the fulcrum effect farther out. Making the rear stiffer makes it act more like a fulcrum at different loads. So, it’s a tricky thing.
Carrying the Cetus cockpit-up so that you can slide the kayak forward seems like the simplest solution. I’ve transported my QCC 600X (carbon/Kevlar) 1600+ highway miles with a nylon cockpit cover and the only extra security I added was to secure the forward grab loop under the forward strap that holds the kayak to the rack. Or, if a strap around the middle sounds more secure, just make some padded wood spacers to go under the cockpit rim to help stiffen it wherever the cockpit cover is strapped down.
On the more off-topic question of the car’s rear suspension sagging, I use Air Lift 1000 air bags on my two cars. Those only cost $100 or so and take and hour or two to install. But they only work with coil spring suspensions. The bags go inside the spring, and when pressurized the air bag bulges out a bit between the turns of the coil - that provides the stiffening effect.
did you have straps over the coaming?
No. Just the nylon cockpit cover with elastic cord tightened under the combing, plus the forward grab loop tied under the forward strap. There was no sign that the cockpit cover ever even tried to come off.
I’m not worried about the cover coming off. I’m worried about the coaming cracking when I tighten the straps done. My problem is that if I move the boat forwards I have to have straps over the coaming.
That’s where I’d make some padded pieces of wood that go under the cockpit combing to help keep it from flexing. To keep the wood in place, imagine a loop of bungee cord that goes around under the cockpit rim. The bungee goes through holes or slots in the wood to hold it tight under the cockpit rim.
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Rain Gutters!!! … and a straight roofline to die for!!!
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Chiming in a little late here & I’ll stick to the original topic: “I need a new boat ASAP”
Not entirely a bad idea to look for something different & perhaps more playful that the Cetus. Especially if you are going to build a F1 in a year or two. Why not one of the Romany variants (they come up for sale often) or a Delphin. Might need a 155 if Marshall is recommending a HV for the Volan.
I want it!
People do die for a chance in one of those. 
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Center the boat on the car
No need for a hearse. I have the perfect travel and boat hauling solution – have tried to convince the custom builder of this thing to put these into production instead of just building for himself and then selling to build the next version (how I snagged this one.) Homebuilt boondocking camper fitted into a used Penske box truck (on a GMC Safari 3500 chassis). Note that it not only has the full overhead rear door but also the pull out ramp. Never have to hoist a boat above my waist to load.
All my boats can fit inside the 16’ box with overhead door, including the 18’ Greenland SOF, which points its nose into the cab between the seats. The double bed is a Murphy frame that folds up out of the way. There are eyebolts through the floor of the cargo box through which I run Thule straps during travel to secure the boats. Overnight on trips I haul them out and set them beside the truck, though I can still use the facilities and sleep in it with one or two boats inside the box. Any of my boats up to 16’ can fit sideways between the Murphy bed and the bathroom/kitchen side of the box and i just have to climb over it to use the toilet (covered with a trash bag on the left, beside the shower stall.
This kind of “toy hauler” camper design with full rear access is perfect for paddlers. I have had as many as 4 hardshell boats inside the truck. Since I have 6 folding kayaks too I can actually haul my entire fleet of 9 kayaks and one canoe in it at once!
Has 50 gallon water and combined grey/blackwater tanks, dual propane tanks, 5000 watt Onan propane genset, 480 watts of solar and even a built in swamp cooler. AC is through the front box wall behind a custom spoiler. Two burner propane cook top, full aluminum framed shower, 80,000 btu gas furnace, gas on demand water heater and propane/120v fridge. Dinette table and pedestal pulls out of the floor so I can unfold the twin cot frame stored behind the dinette chair to set up across the the room to the loveseat base where the cushions pivot to add a second bed. Builder even installed a switch so I can have the solar panels trickle charge the coach battery when it is parked for a while. Ingenious vehicle and I only paid $26,000 for it. No more fussing with roof racks and trailer hitches – plan to sell my kayak trailer this summer.
![reduced camper pic|200x200]
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I am afraid we are not helping with the immediate problem Buying a new truck or camper means no getting out this summer. Long range plans maybe. But campers and trucks are insanely priced and there is a long waiting list for builds.
The immediate problem is fit the kayaks on the car.
Willowleafs suggestion works for some. For others whose tax mill rate is imposed on vehicles not so much… Trailers have a lower rate. Motorhomes assessed at 50 k pay here $700 a year in tax. Same assessment as a house.