I am looking for a trailer. I am looking at the Slick Rydr, Sport Rig, and the Rack and Roll. I have two hobie kayaks, a tandem and a single. I live in the midwest and would be on the road for trips up to and beyond 1000 miles. I have a Camray Hybrid car that would be pulling the trailer. I tried the roof racks, but would rather have the kayaks ready to go anytime on a trailer. I saw a lot of reviews for the sport Rig, but nothing for the slick rydr. Any comments would be appreciated.
Have you ever been to Harbor Freight. I have a 4’x8’ foldable trailer with brake lights, turning signals, etc and 12" tires w/a 2" hitch coupler. It only costs $269. I realize that you would need to setup a way to mount the boats, but it still would be considerably cheaper than any of those other trailers. I do not haul my kayaks this way, but just thought I would give you another idea. The trailer can hold quite a bit of weight (up to 1,000 lbs) and we have done trips up to a couple hundred miles with it and it’s done just fine. Here is a link, http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=90154
Shoot me an e-mail if you have any questions about the trailer.
Trailers with small wheels (like the dinky things on most folding trailers) rotate at a very high rate of speed. They eat up bearings and tires at an alarming rate. Weighing so little they are also prone to pouncing at the slightest bump. Those things are not at all appropriate for long distance travel.
HF Trailer Works
Once upon a time I had a truck with no shell and two kayaks to haul. Also had, and still have, one of those trailers you’re speaking about with side rails.
I made a rack system which laid on top of the trailer’s side rails. Used 2x4s on the ends and 2x2 (covered in marine carpet) fore and aft, spaced appropriately apart for two 'yaks. Would put a 17 ft and a 14 ft 'yak on the rack system then strap rack, yaks and all to the frame of the trailer. All camping and other 'yak gear would be placed in the bed of the trailer.
When not hauling 'yaks the rack would be lifted off and stowed “outback”. Another option is to make two saddles out of 2x10 and fit them to 2x4s which will slide into the stake holders on the side of the trailer. This too can be removed when not being used BUT you lose the storage space.
Any day on the water is a great day.
I’ve seen some nice DIY trailers based on light weight galvanised boat trailers but two things you need to watch; as arkay says above you need wheels much bigger than 12" and make sure you get an extended draw bar to get the kayaks far enough from the vehicle.
I have a harbor freight 4x8 trailer with 12" wheels that I have set up to haul kayaks. I’ve used it for several years and put thousands of miles on it. I live in North Alabama and have hauled it to northern Michigan, Florida, North Carolina, South Carolina, Tennessee, Georgia. I go locally on a weekly basis, sometimes 2-3 times per week. No problems. None. Now, nothing is perfect. I do go carefully over railroad tracks if I don’t know how rough they are. I did extend the tongue in order to carry my longer boats. Used it to move a piano once. Doesn’t look fancy, but then neither do I! But it works well.
I’m glad it’s working out for you Redmond. Really.
Don’t mean to turn this into an argument, just a friendly discussion/exchange of views. My experience is as a guy who has owned many trailers over the years – large to small. I have a landscaping business and several trailers, I’ve owned many over the years. Trailering equipment is part of my business, untold miles traveled on a daily basis. At least one of my trailers is working every work day. On various sized trailers we haul things like backhoes, 4-whl drive tractors, masonry building materials, zero-turn mowers and of course for fun - canoes. In my experience smaller wheels and bearings wear out much faster than larger. Smaller wheeled trailers also bounce more and are rougher on cargo.
I use a 13’ utility trailer to haul up to 5 canoes. It can serve double-duty for general hauling and can also be set up with a removable rack for paddle-craft. The one I use has 14’ wheels, a 5’X13’ wooden deck, welded steel rails and an easily detached full width expanded metal ramp. When I use it for hauling boats I drop off the ramp and set up the canoe rack – made of 2 X 4s with bolts and wing-nuts. I did not find it necessary with this particular trailer to extend the A-frame (tongue). Trailer cost was about $950 a couple of years ago, about $40-50 in 2X4s and hardware as I recall. I spent the better part of a day gathering materials and building the rack.
Someday I’d really like to own a purpose-built canoe trailer - the Blue Mountain Outfitters canoe trailers are the “Gold Standard” in my book. But for now this double duty utility trailer works well for me. It’s less expensive and more useful for a variety of tasks. - Randall
I’ve been using a 4 place Slik Rydr for the last eight to nine years. It has seen thousands of miles throughout the US and Canada, and, with the exception of changing the factory lights to LED’s, has been problem free. It also makes a great storage rack in the garage. Normal care, tire pressure and bearing grease, takes ten minutes. The newer ones seem to have improved materials and options.
They are custom built and will not rust, but for pulling with a Hybrid, probably too much trailer. Even the 2 place mut is a a big trailer with considerable rolling resistance. Hobies are not that large that you will need the extra tongue length of a SlickRdyr so I am going to strongly recommend a Rack and Roll trailer.
They are anodized aluminum so again, no rusting. Important for the midwest even if you say to yourself, I would never pull the trailer while there is salt on the road. The powder coated steal frames of the Sportsrig will chip and rust. Not to mention that the Rack and Roll folds for storage and weighs only 140 lbs. It doesn’t bounce when towed and doubles as a kayak cart.
While an expensive option, I think they are well worth it in the quality of the build and the ease at which any car can pull them.
I will have to go with a trailer or lighter boats. Possibly both. The specialty trailers are very appealing but pricey. I will not be hauling thousands of miles and the trailer must be light weight. I will use it locally and on some trips but not on the ground when long distance traveling. I will be towing a fifth wheel and am thinking of hauling the trailer off the ground vertically on the rear bumper of the fifth wheel trailer. The kayaks will rack on the truck then move to the trailer when we park.
Bounce is caused by more than tire size. The heavy spring rate of most utility trailers is the major cause. Ever haul an empty boat trailer? I am not in a big hurry so I am looking at options. My daughter uses the 4x8 HF trailer with 12" wheels to haul 4 kayaks and camping gear. It works quite well for her but would not work for me. One option for me is the light Harbor Freight trailer with an 875 load capacity. The tongue could be cut, extended and made two piece. Racking would be basic as I dont need to haul stuff in the trailer. Another option is the aluminum folding trailer. I am more interested in light weight than heavy duty.
I bought an old homemade
trailer and modified it to hold two kayaks on the right side and my Suz Dr 650 moto on the left side. it has 14 inch rim car tires and shocks. It is fine on paved roads but on gravel washboard it wants to jack knife while breaking.
I tow it with a light truck but it really needs a heavier tow vehicle to be safe. At least it tracks straight and it makes it easy to do a self shuttle.
Not a problem. I think it was the “Those things are not at all appropriate for long distance travel.” Sounds kind of absolute. Just wanted to give another perspective.
My earlier statement was too absolute. - Randall
A stronge vote for Lighter Boats
If resources (money) allocation is the issue, I would allocate it to obtain lighter boats.
When the weight of a boat is less than 30-35lbs, everything is soooo easy!!!
Weight ain’t the only factor
Rotomolded or carbon fiber boat, the wind resistance is just as bad for either. A trailer eliminates a good portion of this and allows a smaller car to move bigger boats with better fuel economy.
A galvanized small boat trailer
is about $500 and can easily have racks added with wood or metal. Big tires come with them.
Don’t think so
While driving the car’s engine is moving the boat(s).
While paddling the boat’s engine (us) is moving it., and it is not funny to move a barge (taperware).
Just my two cents,
How about the Blue Mountain Outfiters.
I have been reading all the posts and thanks for the feedback. After the suggestion that Blue Mountain Outfitters make the gold standard, I went to their website. Does anyone have any experience with them.
I’ve been considering a castlecraft
kayak trailer, aluminum will handle 4 boats for $928 including shipping.
Academy Sports sells a galvanized john boat trailer for less than $500. It could be modified to carry at least 2 kayaks relatively easily…do it yourself (bolt together parts) or sub it out to your local welding shop (a little more solid).