I owe someone some thanks

and I don’t know who, but thanks!

Back a while ago someone on here mentioned using saran wrap over epoxy when making repairs.

In the past I had always used a thicker non flexible plastic sheet when I was touching up the bottom of my Jensen Canoe, but never had to do any touching up on the portion that was rounded sharply.

Our comp cruiser had a fairly bad scrape several inches long (right into the kevlar) at the stern where we went over a rock and I recalled about the use of the saran wrap.

My biggest worry was would the saran wrap peel off or stay glued to the boat - Not to worry, it peeled off beautifully and left me with a perfect smooth fix and no sanding.

So whoever you were that mentioned it, many thanks



Was that a Chattahoochee battle scar?
Hopefully not.


No, we used the Jensen there
and read the river good - never scraped at all.



Me Too
Thanks to the person who started the thread about the thermarest sleeping pad. I bought one and slept great the other night. The pad fit nicely in the front hatch.

A gentleman I work with does alot of repairs on racing canoes, Kevlar and Carbon and he vacuum bags almost all his repairs…along the same lines as saran wrap but with pressure.

C. Walbridge warned against using
Saran Wrap because it might stick to the resin. He recommended using any thin film food wrap except Saran Wrap.

However, I have read two successful cases of Saran Wrap in the last few weeks. Either Saran Wrap has changed, or Walbridge was mistaken.

I would still suggest skipping Saran Wrap (likely to be a bit more expensive) and just using the generic food wrap film from the food store, all of which has worked for me.

Fotographic film works great too. But
can see where plastic wrap would be more desireable as can see the work being done and do more through the wrap too.



My apologies, this was:
“Glad -Cling Wrap”

I have always just used the term “saran Wrap”, figuring it was all the same stuff.



Be careful with Photo Film!
I used it quite a few years ago,(old negatives) and ended up sanding a bunch of black stuff afterwards.

I normally use the clear thin stiff sheets that you use in three ring binders, but they are two stiff for sharp curvy places that is why I went with the Saran Wrap.



Idea of a friend
And as above, it was actually some kind of clingy food wrap of no particular brand. I just had to replace the gel coat along the keel like of my Explorer after a particularly rough drop, and a local paddler (wetzool here) mentioned that he used it. I still have to take off the wrap from the second layer and (if I am seeing and feeling right) can start the final sand down, but it doesn’t seem to have stuck.

The nice thing about it was, as in this case, I needed to replicate how the gel coat thickens and rounds right along the keel. So I needed something that’d be flexible enough that the gel coat would pretty much goop down into it and give me enough thickness to be able to sand back to that shape.

Always wondered about old negatives.
I always used new film as I suspected full layered film would be cleaner than file with part to most layers etched away. Thanks for confirming!!!

Film can not be seen through when in use and is difficult to use in sharp bends.

I really like the idea of see through, easy to use most anywhere, vac baggable, CHEAP, etc



Jack if you really feel that you want
to make it a financial gift send the money to me and I’ll forward it.

Paddlin on…with a smile


duct tape
works too. just keep the sticky part towards the epoxy

One little disadvantage of duct tape
is that you can’t see through it. When I do patches, the plastic film lets me see where I haven’t worked out all the air bubbles or all of the excess West epoxy. I use my finger or thumb gently on the plastic film to work air bubbles and excess resin out to the edge of the film.

Saran wrap -type thin plastic
has been used on fiberglsss repairs for years. Back in the 60’s girls mostly would bring their surf boards into the shop and we would use a hole cutter and cut circles of glass out of the top and bottom (not into the foam) and fill the holes with various colors of resin to make dots on the board. It was a status Kool thing at $30/dot max 2 1/2" dia. The thin plastic saran wrap allowed us to make sure there were no bubbles in the patch.