contact cement
Thanks Andy
The great majority of kayak and canoe outfitters who glue together minicel foam use DAP Weldwood contact cement, the flammable, water resistant variety that comes in a black and red can. Most Walmarts have cans priced pretty cheaply. I apply it using an inexpensive, metal-handle “acid brush” that you can buy at most hardware stores. Foam likes to soak up contact cement. Use at least two coats on each of the two surfaces you want to join. If it seems a bit dry after two coats, apply a third.
Some folks like 3 M spray contact adhesives for convenience.
If the foam you want to bond has a “skived” surface, take that coating off with sandpaper before applying the adhesive. In fact, even if the foam is not skived, it is a good idea to rough up the bonding surfaces with 100-150 grit sandpaper.
Skived means kind of slick looking and shiny?
Yes, it is minicel that has that dressed coating which can inhibit absorption of the adhesive, or can peel away from the minicel block later.
Have always used DAP weldwood for padding in with minicell. As above, it wears forever. And it is relatively cheap.
@kayamedic said:
Skived means kind of slick looking and shiny?
Actually no, that’s a “skinned” surface. When Mincel buns come out of the mold, they have a skin on them all the way around. Skiving is the process of removing the skin and exposing the foam. The term is also used to describe the process of creating thin sheets of foam.
Do not waste your time trying to glue a skinned surface; it doesn’t work very well. Either sand or slice off the skin before gluing. I also recommend cleaning the surfaces with lacquer thinner before gluing. It won’t affect the foam, but it will remove any oils or other contaminants from the surface and improve the glue bond.
In the case of the blocks in the photo, the non-skid material could be glued with contact cement, if that’s your intention. The other sides should be fine, too.