Installing Yakima Foot Braces to replace P&H Twistlock Foot Braces?

Advice
#1

Hi,
I want to replace my P&H kayak’s twistlock foot braces with Yakima style braces. I like the Twistlocks, but they are just a bit too flexible and the fact that they “creak” when I push on them is annoying.

I have done this before with mixed results. The problem is that the bolt spacing is different between the two by about 1/8 of an inch. This does not sound like much, but it’s enough to make a difference.

In the past I have just drilled out the holes in the hull a bit bigger, but this is not a great solution.

I am wondering what others have done. I am considering this time using the existing holes for the forward bolt and then using Gflex epoxy to fill the holes for the rear bolt hole and then re-drilling them at the proper location 1/8 inch from the center of the previous holes. This seems like it might be a better approach rather than creating a large hold on one or both sets of bolt holes that are larger than the bolts going through and therefore proving opportunities for movement or water intrusion.

Any thoughts / ideas?

thanks

Matt

#2

I had a similar problem and instead of drilling the holes larger I slotted one hole on each side using a Dremel tool. Unrelated to enlarging the mounting hole, my hull was sort of sunken inward at the screw holes which I didn’t like so I also made some external washers with rubber backing. The external washers hide the hull deformities and also seal out any water.

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#3

Bowler; nothing wrong with your approach, or with the other suggestion. Make sure to add something to keep water out., a rubber washer or some type of sealant.

#4

Other way around.

Instead of drilling the hull, why not make the hole in the Yakima footbraces rail slightly slotted? A small washer and nyloc nut will span the gap easily.

See you on the water,
Marshall
The River Connection, Inc.
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#5

Couple of rubber washers and stainless steel flat washers even fender washers on each surface of the hull.

#6

I ended up putting duck tape on the outside of holes, leaning the boat on its side, and then putting Gflex on the inside of teh hole, allowing it to dry before doing the other side. This filled the hole and make it flush on the outside of the hull. A little sanding on the indside when dry, adn then re-drilling. Worked perfectly. A little gel coat touch up paste covered what was exposed from where the old hole was.

Difference in the center to center distance is 1/8 inch shorter with the Yakima versus twist lock. Basically you drill the center of the new hole right on the outside radius of what was the old hole (holes are 1/4 inch diameter so this works perfectly)

Matt

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