You would say, but I posted my speeds so WHAT IS YOUR POINT since you weren’t there and have no clue.
Are you suggesting that if I change to high angle I could paddle faster.
No I won’t waste my time posting a video, because you’ll just challenge the camera angle. You’ve already challenged the GPS accuracy and the track. I posted based on time to cover a measured distance - you challenged the accuracy of the nautical chart and topographic map, or whether the watch was calibrated to the US Naval Observatory. I frankly don’t care what you believe, because I’ve come to think of your comments as a reverse barometer:
I’d suggest that you ask @Craig_S, since we paddled together, but you don’t trust his comments any more than you trust mine.
Wrong never said a GSP is inaccurate. I never said charts are not accurate. Link or quote where I said that. Yes I don’t believe your 14’ boat goes like an arrow doing low angle with a long paddle. You admitted to 10° swing that slows down a boat.
See anybody racing with low angle paddling? 
Well Paddledog52, that depends on where you look. Here’s one place you see it. (and yes there are others)
Semantics. Read what I said: up to 5° either side. “Up to”. Just tekl me you don’t believe it. Why do you think I’m trying to race. I paddle low angle because my left rotater cuff was damaged, it had sepsis induced porosity, two of four tendons are detatched. I can’t raise my left arm above straight out. I was shocked that I’m still able to paddle and managed to adapt to low angle paddling. Two years ago, I reply to a post about what members accomplished for the season. My accomplishment was gettin to within .16 mph of my high avg set 15 years ago over an 8.5 mile course.
You told me:
- a 145 Tsunami couldn’t go that fast.
- GPS isnt capable of that degree of accuracy.
- the GPS track isn’t accurate enough . . .
- it depends on wind tide current and waves
- low angle yaws to much and wi slow your progress. To that I’ll simply say, "you don’t know how to paddle low angle.
In case you missed the details, i managed to match my high speed that I set 15 years ago, so I’m faster now than I was when I was in my prime, and I did it with a gimpy arm. The boat traxks straight enough for my needs, so I don’t really care what anyone thinks about it.
My kayak did 13 mph on a GPS does that mean that’s how fast my kayak is? No it’s the current and wind that pushed me that fast.
Yes I know how accurate a GPS can be I watch them guide munitions. Last I heard military has GOS down to 3’ .
I’ll agree speed depends also on wind and waves besides the paddles and hull. Many equations to speed. To find true speed of a hull and yourself it has to be exempt from currents , winds, and waves.
Gee not one Euro paddler there and all Greenland boats?
Yes and no.
Plenty of European paddlers there, but to the best of my knowledge all GL style paddles (which do vary more then most people realize) And mostly GL style kayaks, (more or less) but many of them are made in the UK and Europe too.
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You win. My GPS tends to be more realistic.
Talking about blades not people as in euro
There should be more emphasis on paddle technique than speed. Speed comes with understanding and connecting with the boat. It doesn’t have to be a fast boat or a super paddle. Learn to become part of the system.
You can’t go fast in a slow boat. You can’t go fast with a bad paddle. It’s physics’s.
You can’t go fast with bad technique.
You can’t make a good cake with bad ingredients.
You can paddle a slow boat faster with proper technique and a good paddle.
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For once we agree. That’s why I decided to keep paddling my Tsunamis. I’m less concerned with the potential of the boat than the efficiency of my technique. I’ve been able to reach every destination on the Upper Chesapeake Bay by paddling or by using one of three different launch site Dundee Creek, Havre de Grace or Turner Creek Landing. Why do I need a faster or more seaworthy boat.
@Jyak can you explain the 5-10deg drift while paddling, when I do I might get 1-2 if pushing but for me it’s more of a lean than anything, so to say if I make a paddle stroke on the left the boat tilts towards the left, if I do right the boat tilts right. The actual paddle stroke itself doesn’t cause the nose of the boat to delta one way or the other, the glide between the strokes is what sort of make the nose turn in or out as it were.
In effect it’s sort of like a mini-edge, the tilt makes the waterline longer on one side vs. the other slightly ever so slightly but still visible, the next stroke reverses things so the boat basically goes straight as long as I keep my form right and tight.
It’s also more prevalent or noticeable in soft chine vs hard chine eg, Tempest Vs. Tsunami.
If you read my comment, I said I can typically keep it within plus/minus 5°, not that it deviates 10° with each stroke. That deviation isn’t caused by paddling technique but largely depends on conditions and weather cocking, side currents, and tidal influence.
As you know, there’s a difference paddling static water in a lake and tidal conditions. You must constantly react to unseen forces. For example, salt water is heavier than fresh, so an fresh outflow rides over inflowing salt water which causes churning. That is exacerbated by channel depth, shoals, constrictions, confluence of rivers, peninsulas with lee vs. exposed areas, and wind direction builds stronger currents in my area when it runs from the S or SE overnight, because its unrestricted from the sea for over 100 miles.
You paddled with me. If you think my track isn’t practical, feel free to point it out. We had ample time side by side, as well as in lead or follow positions. I’m satisfied with my track which is what matters to me. I don’t suggest low anglecas anything more than an option. I’ve posted my GPS tracks and speeds to validate my claims, so other paddlers can make their own assessment. If a paddler expresses concern or asks for help in improving speed, efficiency, or tracking, I offer an alternative. I don’t make any money if anyone follows my advice.
I’m open to anyone offering suggestions on how I can improve my track, incresse my speed, flatten my speed, or better combat wind, current, waves or tides. Please don’t tell me. Show me your supporting digital documentation. Remember that I don’t paddle a Gucci canoe. I’m in a recreation boat. Its not the most challenging of conditions, but I wouldn’t consider in docile either. In perspective, I can track straighter by edging the 145 Tsunami than I can keep the 175 on track, either with or without the rudder.
Plus or minus 5° is a 10° swing?
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Leg drive will increase rolling of kayak side to side probably an inch or two. Nose on my Extreme will move 1" side to side under full power maximum.
You’re math skills are superb.