Put one coat of Milk Paint Pure Tung Oil on my Lumpy stick. Pure tung oil is what Bill Bremer recommended, so that’s what I use.
I’ve read some posts here and elsewhere that it should be sanded between coats. If so, why?
Thanks.
I have never sanded but have used a Scotchbrite pad to warm the oil so it soaks in as much as possible… Yes multiple coats Note how the successive coats after the first are applied with 600 grit sandpaper
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KqKzUGkiue0
Thanks. First time I oiled it, I used a rag then during a conversation with Bill, asked him what he did as I knew he put multiple coats on each paddle before it’s shipped. He uses his bare hands so I switched to that method. Feels good on the hands and easy to clean up.
Haven’t done multiple coats before; have lots of the Scotchbrite pads so I’ll go over the paddle with one before moving to the next coat. It looks pretty darn good with just one coat, but wood heat tends to dry out the house and everything in it.
I was on the drill team in college. We used M1-Garands ; every winter the stocks we’re sanded and refinished as done in the video. Very nice looking and a plus in drill meets.
When my Lumpies start looking shabby I’ll sand down the nasty gouges and dings and re-oil with the fake Hornby’s stuff. I’m a ‘low gloss’ guy so I use very fine steel wool before and between coats. Two coats is plenty.
To answer your question… I rub with steel wool before and between and after applying the oil because the paddle feels and looks better to me that way. I want a beautiful wooden paddle and not a glossy, plastic paddle with wood underneath it.
Tung oil doesn’t leave a gloss if its worked in properly and not just lying on top. . All steel wool is not equal… 000 ( or the even finer 0000) will get you the matte finish you desire. Just make sure its a quality wool that wont leave behind shards
I use a Scotch brite pad on the advise of a boatbuilder.
I’ve been using the same application method as the video, not because sanding is necessary - it isn’t - but because it produces a great finish. However, I don’t use pure tung oil, as it’s simply too soft and doesn’t hold up well to paddling use. I mix it 50:50 with a natural spar varnish. The resulting finish looks and feels just like oil alone, but it’s much more durable. You can use polyurethane varnish in the blend, but you’ll probably want to increase the oil content to 60:40 oil/varnish.
Rex,
Formby’s (I assume that’s what you meant) isn’t actually tung oil, it’s wiping varnish that may contain a bit of tung oil (a lot of “tung oil finish” product contain no tung oil at all). That’s why you have to use steel wool to degloss it. Pure tung oil or blends (like I describe above) that contain a large percentage of oil do not produce a gloss finish.
What I found with wiping varnish is that even if you degloss it as you describe, it it becomes polished and glossy over time where you hold the paddle.
So true that you can’t apply pure tung oil and let it dry. Has to be worked in, then wiped off. The Milk Paint directions state to wait 40 minutes, then wipe off and allow to dry 4 - 48 hours before the next coat. If you don’t, you’re left with one sticky mess. That warning was in the letter that came with my Lumpy.
Because the air is dry and warm, thanks to my woodstove, I did the second application at six hours, wiped it off and let it sit overnight. Paddle is dry, has a light sheen, but not at all glossy. Will do another coat or two today.
Especially like the easy cleanup of the tung oil. I have to do the work in my laundry room and this morning I noticed a few drops of tung oil on the tile floor. Came right up with a wet paper towel and drop of dish soap.
Another finish very much worth considering is Varathane Spar outdoor water based urethane. It is very easy to apply, but works best with a very fine high quality brush. Multiple coats (6 to 10, or more) for a deep tough finish. Lightly sand with fine paper between coats as necessary and allow each coat to thoroughly dry–even though it will feel dry to the touch in about five minutes, it needs several hours to fully cure. Repairs are very easy–sand as needed and reapply–no stripping required. Soap and water cleanup.
I used this finish on my GP’s and they look like new all the time.
Will definitely try the Scotch Brite pad next touch up.
Scotch Brites work great and have nearly replaced my use of steel/brass wool. No worries with embedded particles and they’re excellent for applying an oil or oil blend finish. I keep a good supply of the red, grey and white on hand for canoe projects as well as for gunsmithing tasks. Very versatile little creations those Scotch Brite pads.
There’s a significant difference between using Scotchbrite and sandpaper. Scotchbrite will follow the grain and abrade the softer material faster that the harder. It also follows existing contours in the surface and tends to enhance them. In comparison. sandpaper tends to level the surface, making it smoother. The finer the grit, the smoother the surface, which is why using 400-600 grit produces such beautiful, smooth results. I’ve used Scotchbrite to degloss existing finishes and it works well for that. I won’t use it for apply a new finish on bare wood because of the characteristics cited above.
That’s my plan… to use the Scotch Brite in place of steel wool for removing the gloss. Very fine sandpaper will remain the tool of choice for smooth finish.
@bnystrom said:
There’s a significant difference between using Scotchbrite and sandpaper. Scotchbrite will follow the grain and abrade the softer material faster that the harder. It also follows existing contours in the surface and tends to enhance them. In comparison. sandpaper tends to level the surface, making it smoother. The finer the grit, the smoother the surface, which is why using 400-600 grit produces such beautiful, smooth results. I’ve used Scotchbrite to degloss existing finishes and it works well for that. I won’t use it for apply a new finish on bare wood because of the characteristics cited above.
Good to know - thank you.