Unless I need a really strong yaw correction, normally the J stroke is one continuous motion without any hesitation at any place. The catch goes in, pull to power to the hip as the rotation of the thumb has already begun, blade gently drifts fully submerged to slightly behind with gentle pressure out as needed, (this is where transition to doing the Canadian can begin) and then the paddle fairly rapidly exits the water for the recovery while feathering to cut through the air without any air resistance to return to the catch again. All one continuous motion throughout the process.
Depending on the actual tilt from vertical that you have the blade in the water, and also how far you might push out or pull in the grip hand, you can make the correctiive yaw go either toward the onside or to the offside. Practice this while moving slowly forward and you will see that it works.
It might shorten the time in the water but mostly it will lessen the amount you need to pull in on the grip or push out on the shaft. The greater the angle that you create by pulling in on the grip or pushing out on the shaft, the more drag you create.
If I am not race paddling, then I am most likely recreationally paddling along easily with a straight wood paddle doing the J or pitch or Canadian, or Indian stroke or some other variant. In which case a litle exra drag is not any issue to worry about if I effect the maneuver control that I seek. If I am race paddling, the J or other advanced recreational strokes are generally not done and any drag their technique creates is of little or no concern
If you are using a symmetrical straight blade you can modify the J easily to hold the thumb down position for just a fraction of a second while you do the correction, Then without moving the paddle switch to thumbs up. Don’t move the paddle while you do this… Then you can slice the paddle through the water forward and be in position to start a new forward stroke.
I cannot do a long held thumbs down J and fortunately do not have to with that simple adaptation. Arthritis.
That sounds like a J ending with the Indian stroke vairant. Like I said earlier, The strokes you do can flow effortlessly and smoothly from one to another as needed to get the job done if you have the right kiind of entry stroke. The J format can be the beginning of many.
Correct. But that form is easy to learn first before you change to the pitch , Canadian and Northwoods
The J is the basis of FreeStyle as its a low cadence stroke and leads to first the bow hanging draw and bow jam but this gets ahead of starting.
Every stroke has a use. Sometimes I do hit and switch with a bent Zav paddle and then aah time to rest and do a J with the same paddle… Not the goon ( better termed the stern pry… a fine river stroke… easier to disentangle from rocks.
[quote=“jefffski, post:29, topic:112191, full:true”]
I pry off my gunwale often. it saves effort. I use some kind of tape to protect my paddle.
[/quote] I have been a recreational paddler for going on 50 years now, and a licensed guide instructor in canoes. And a racer for 30 of my later years years with an estimated 8,000 or more miles of combined racing and race training.
I can’t say that I have ever had the need to use my paddle to put a gunwale pry into my basket of regularly used paddling techniques. I care more for my expensive paddles and wood or fiber gunwales than to abuse them like that.
I have been a recreational paddler for going on 50 years now, and a licensed guide instructor in canoes. And a racer for 30 of my later years years with an estimated 8,000 or more miles of combined racing and race training.
I can’t say that I have ever had the need to use my paddle to put a gunwale pry into my basket of regularly used paddling techniques. I care more for my expensive paddles and wood or fiber gunwales than to abuse them like that.
it’s a light touch. I’m paddling at a stroke rate of about 43 strokes per minute and in calm water, I match virtually every stroke with my bow. So, my correction is very quick and light.
Here’s a quick video (0:33-1:03) that shows how little I sometimes pry off the gunwale
And here is how champion C-1 slalom racer Davey Hearn describes the J-stroke:
"The J-stroke is the more efficient and elegant of correction strokes. Execute the J-stroke at the end of the pull-through, when the blade is nearing the hip, by turning the thumb of the top hand downwards. The power face of the blade exerts the turning force on the boat. The paddle shaft drags on the edge of the boat as the blade traces a J-shaped pattern in the water. The J-stroke works well because it blends right into the recovery, with no wasted motion. When you need a strong turning action, you can pry the paddle right off the side of the boat as you would in a rudder stroke. But often you can create enough turning motion without touching the side of the canoe. Move the top hand in across your face, toward the offside, as the J-stroke unfolds.
The top hand controls the J. stroke, while the bottom hand and the edge of the boat act as the fulcrum for the lever of the paddle shaft. The edge of the boat must be smooth within knuckles of the bottom hand drag along the gunwale, or you may end up with some scars."
If this thread makes anything clear it is that there are J strokes, and there are J strokes. There is no one right way to do it, it depends on the circumstances.
The J stroke that Marc Ornstein describes might be called a classic J stroke or “long” J stroke. It is a relaxed method for recreational paddling. With the paddle blade far back near the aft stem of the boat the blade acts like a rudder on a ship. Very little or no outward “hook” is required for correction, just a slight angulation of the blade outward relative to the long axis of the canoe and the forward momentum of the boat will apply sufficient force on the blade face to provide correction.
But this type of J stroke requires a long stroke excursion which translates to a low stroke cadence so it is not the type of stroke that a racer or someone trying to provide as much propulsion per stroke would use. It also makes it very difficult for a stern paddler to remain in sync with a bow paddler’s much shorter power stroke.
The type of J stroke that ydnpdlr and Davey Hearn describes, which might be called a “short J”, allows for a much higher stroke cadence. But since the correction is done as the paddle blade reaches the hip the paddle face is much closer to the longitudinal pivot point of the canoe so an outward “hook” is required to provide sufficient corrective force. Yes, this creates a bit of drag, but the higher stroke cadence more than makes up for it.
That’s what I’m thinking. Not sure I follow all the points made but for me it’s key that you start with a little bow draw to pull the boat slightly towards your paddling side at the beginning of the power stroke and then you don’t need much correction at all at the end of the stroke.
Hey mountainpaddler, I have a Magic that I bought for paddling while sitting. I’ve always paddled it sit and switch with a bent shaft but a couple of days ago I did some J-stroking (maybe C-stroking) with a straight shaft and I was surprised to learn how responsive the Magic is to J-strokes. Personally I prefer sit and switch for the balanced exercise and higher cruising speed but J-stroking is relaxing and aesthetically pleasing.
The C stroke starts with a partial draw, puts the tip of the blade under the canoe, and ends with a partial push-away. Not designed for creating much of any forward velocity. Doing the C violates the efficiency rule of “stacking hands” with a vertical shaft that should put the power of the paddle stroke in line with the desired direction of forward propulsion. it is also a much slower stroke . Can not see comfortably or efficiently spending much time even at a slightly slower recreational cadence using a C stroke much of the time.
Even when I am not hitting and switching I do change sides when paddling for a while on one side to balance things out physically. I use to tend to favor my right side, but now it doesn’t really matter on which side I paddle.
When paddling solo in wide open water, I typically spend many minutes just on one side or the other, changing sides only for variety, or for even muscle training. I will also shift my weight in the seat or kneel to heel the canoe over on the paddle side somewhat, which better benefits straight tracking. Racers typically swiitch (hut) as needed to minimize yaw, often after only 6-12 strokes, depending on canoe design and conditions.
C4 and voyageur (C6) canoes set up for racing will have center seats that actively and easily slide from side to side, gunwale to gunwale on each “hut” so the paddler is always positioned in the best power configuration.
