My car has whisperbars, my truck has jet bars. Both use T-slots neither has exceptional rack spread, so towing shell carriers might be a good choice for my 18’ sea kayak.
Any suggestions?
The car I m using (a 2000 Audi) came with a factory rack made by Thule, and has t-slots.
2 ways I attach things:
- get extra t-slot bolts and nuts and use that way. For example, this kit contains 4 bolts and 4 nuts: http://amzn.to/2A2JXIR
- get adapters that grab around the whole rail. Many of the kayak trays and such come with these. You are looking for parts that look like this as part of the kit: http://amzn.to/2gSpSwu
Some trays, like the bike trays that keep wheels on, I am using both types of attachments.
You can replace those allen nuts for wing nuts with a kit like: http://amzn.to/2xISEXr
The T-Tracks of both will accept the Thule XAdapt T Bolts or the M6 square nuts thqt come standard with the various Thule carriers. The newest iteration of Thule saddle (hull down application) Dock Grip seems to be a nicely upgraded design from the previous Set-2-Go. If you have 27"+ you will be good for the 18’ kayak. Use your bow and stern tie downs (Thule includes them with the saddles)
See you on the water,
Marshall
The Connection, Inc.
9 W. Market St.
Hyde Park, NY
845-228-0595 main
845-242-4731 mobile
Main: www.the-river-connection.com
Store: www.the-river-connection.us
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For a long kayak on a short spread, V-bars are a good option. I use KayakPro, there is also GoodBoy. To adapt to the aero bars that I have, I used rectangular tubing that could fit around the bar entirely, with the V-bar mount attached into threaded holes in the tubing. Fasteners are 5/16 Allen cap screws, and are probably over-specified. There is one thumbscrew on each tube to keep it at a set location on the bar, and the tower has to be disassembled to get the tube on, not difficult. Overall, it is very sturdy, although it took a bit of work to make. The car now has two V-bars, working well since 2006.
