Does anyone know a good supplier of kayak deck lines and bungee cords? I’m trying to replace the deck lines on an 18 foot sea kayak. Also what is the best diameter to get? 4mm?
Thanks
A few sources
http://www.rockcreek.com/bluewater-ropes/nite-line-reflective-accessory-cord/ colored lines, pretty and reflective
Static climbing line from places like EMS or REI, for perimeter rigging
Both static line and bungee, from Atlantic Kayak Tours
http://stores.aktretail.com/-strse-Parts/Categories.bok
lots of good links right on this site…
http://www.paddling.net/buyersguide/accessories/showCategory.html?cat=58
Sta-Set
I like 1/4" sta-set for deck perimeter lines. It’s a polyester line found at boating stores (made by New England Ropes, I think). Other double-braid polyester lines would be fine if the store you are at carries a different brand.
You don’t want nylon because it stretches too much for a static deck line.
You can also get bungies from marine stores, but not black, in my experience. I last ordered black shock cord from store.thekayakcentre.com.
Sterling Ropes
packages hanks of polyester with a reflective tracer. An almost identical line is sold w/o tracer and marketed as “drum line”.
Jim
neocorp
neocorp
That’s www.neocorp.com
Their Sport Cord is ideal for deck lines and I’ve rigged a lot of boats with it. It’s ~3/16" braided polyester that doesn’t stretch. They also sell the best bungee I’ve seen anywhere. It has a textured sheath that holds objects more securely than the slick stuff most companies sell. On top of that, you won’t find better prices or service anywhere. For real bargains, check their remnants section. You can often get killer deals on spools of Sport Cord.
PMI – excellent supplier – good price
– Last Updated: Oct-10-09 1:50 AM EST –
About two years ago, after a lengthy search, I found Pigeon Mountain Industries, which specializes in climbing rope. For an excellent price I got rope for deck line (4mm?) that had patterns woven into it that were both highly reflective and glow-in-the-dark. (I could turn off the shop lights and watch the lines glow in the dark, then turn a flashlight on them and see the bright reflective pattern.)
Here's their link: http://shop.pmirope.com/rope/index.aspx?pageID=15
They were very helpful with my questions; apparently a number of kayakers had found their way to them.
I think tensile strength is more important than diameter - keeping in mind that you don't want to cut your hands on thin line.
Also, and I'll probably get flack here on this, I believe it is important to have your deck lines taught-enough, and up off the deck-enough to grab (regardless of "expert" opinion that deck lines should be slack). Here's why: Did you ever try to pick up a wet noodle off the table? A wet, loose deck line off the deck? You (or somebody you're rescuing) need to be able to snatch that line quickly before you drift away.
I get my understanding of this from my aviation background. You use taught line for aerial snatching, not slack.
Of course, you don't want to use bungee for deck lines, but you can tie-into and run bungee line parallel to the deck line (see my photo) several inches before they both connect to a deck fitting. Wrap the two around each other, pulling the bungee taught when you connect to the fitting and the bungee will keep the deckline taught enough all the time - even with temperature changes.
I can't add the photo (something's wrong on the pnet site): a close-up shot of integrated deck and bungee line, so maybe try my photo section on pnet (Caladesi Island photos).
Taut, elevated deck lines…
…are far more functional in rescue situations than loose lines. I’ve been preaching this for years, based on lots of rescue practice and a fair amount of experience in real rescues. When you can’t grab a deck line quickly in an emergency situation, it’s not only a royal pain, but a potentially serious problem. As you stated, you have to think of it in terms or snagging the line with a hook (your hand), as picking a wet deckline up off a pitching kayak with wet, gloved hands is difficult and time consuming at best. If the line is elevated, a quick swipe is generally all that’s needed to get a grip on the line.
Flush deck fittings have been standard on kayaks for decades, but they make the lines nearly useless. While they provide the illusion of safety and functionality, in real conditions they don’t work. It’s long past time that some forward-thinking manufacturer started making boats with elevated deck lines.
As for tensile strength, IMO it’s really not a factor, as deck lines don’t see that much stress and the deck fittings will break long before 3/16"/4mm cord will.
Brian, 2 questions
1. Do you elevate your perimeter lines, say, with beads or something?
2. What kind and weight of line would you recommend for a contact-tow setup?
On perimeter lines: my Mystic came new from the factory with perimeter lines so tight they were useless, not grabable. Apparently they made a few like that! So I cut the line and tied in some additional perimeter line using bowlines. So my perimeter line is a bit loose, but at least I feel it’s grabable. Maybe too tight is as bad as too loose?
Ginger
More on deck lines
– Last Updated: Oct-10-09 5:48 PM EST –
"1. Do you elevate your perimeter lines, say, with beads or something?"
That's exactly what I do. You can get 3/4" wooden beads at craft stores for ~$3.00 for a bag of 27, or 1" beads for the same price for a bag of 18. You'll need to drill out the holes to fit your deck lines, but it's important to make the fit tight so the beads don't slide around too much. I melt the end of the deckline and taper it, then twist the beads onto the line as I rig the deck. I find that the 3/4" beads are fine for perimeter lines, but I like the 1" beads better for paddle rigging and such. You can see examples of my deck rigging at:
http://community.webshots.com/user/brian_nystrom-reg
"2. What kind and weight of line would you recommend for a contact-tow setup?"
I use 3/16"/4mm line, just as I do for deck lines. The size is not critical and this size line is more than strong enough for a contact tow. IMO, the size, shape and type of gate on the carabiners is more important than the type of cord connecting them. You need to be able to grab, clip and unclip the 'biners quickly and easily.
"On perimeter lines: my Mystic came new from the factory with perimeter lines so tight they were useless, not grabable. Apparently they made a few like that! So I cut the line and tied in some additional perimeter line using bowlines. So my perimeter line is a bit loose, but at least I feel it's grabable. Maybe too tight is as bad as too loose?"
Tight and elevated works really well. Loose and elevated works, but not as well, since the line can droop onto the deck between the beads or whatever you're using to elevate the lines. If your lines are not elevated, you have to leave them loose, as you discovered. Otherwise, you don't have a prayer of being able to grab them. Perimeter lines that you can't grab are just useless decoration.
Thanks for the deckline info, Brian.
agree 100%
I remember some production boats where you’re just as like to have your fingers trapped under tight perimeter lines.
On the other end of the scale I liked the foredeck rigging I had on my Mariner where a doubled line went from the u bolt at the bow and back to the two recessed deck cleats. Pulled tight the lines were a inch off the deck and went down either side of the peak. It made for a very easy grab when stumbling out at the beach and getting a hold of the kayak while running forward to grab the bow toggle. Even though it made for a looser connection to the kayak as the lines could bow a foot in either direction when grabbed in the middle of it’s 6’ length I liked being able to toss the kayak around without having to change grip to different handholds between deck anchors.
Thanks…
I plan on contacting Neocorp.