@Guideboatguy said:
It depends what you mean by “correctly sized”. The hints I provided were only meant to help if you end up using something that’s about as large a diameter as what will fit through the holes in your rigging.
Yes, good hints, thanks. I meant rather than do that, I found a cord that matches the current cord and holes. If this cord is adequate strength-wise (breaking point 425lb) , it should be all good and hopefully easy? If not, I’d like to hear it.
@SpaceSputnik I don’t think what line you use, or what knots you use are really that critical.
Having said that I think that while 5mm line would afford a better hand grip than thinner 3mm line, I don’t think I’d want to ream out my deck fittings to take the larger line.
And as long as your stopper knots hold, that’s all that really matters. The animated knots link that @Rookie provided should definitely be one of your bookmarks, but a simple figure of 8 knot holds really well and is relatively easy to undo should you ever wish to.
I do agree that the knot in your first photo looks like a double fisherman but keep in mind that such a knot is designed to connect two lengths of rope. If you can make that run with one continuous length then you wouldn’t need the knot.
Here’s another Cape Horn that looks to me like it’s been re-rigged…
And here’s another thread you might find interesting…
http://www.kayakforum.com/cgi-bin/Building/archive.pl/bid/12/md/read/id/78658/sbj/s-g-deck-rigging/
What is the round black thing on the red Cape Horn in the first picture?
Do you mean the deck-mounted compass?
Many sea kayaks have a recess on the foredeck to mount one.
@kfbrady said:
Do you mean the deck-mounted compass?Many sea kayaks have a recess on the foredeck to mount one.
Yes, that. Thanks.
That is how Current Designs does it. I photographed all rigging before re-doing it. They don’t put shrink tube on ends I was just bored.
Some hardware rope is cheap crap and the sun destroys it fast. Flag pole rope flag sells is junk. It last about 9 months and it’s done. I spent $120 on new rope 5/16" to redo it. I have that same rope on dock bumpers for 5 years and is still looks good. Get the right stuff and be done. Reflective rocks are worth it when good quality like 3M
From a functional standpoint, the biggest problem with most perimeter lines is that they are flat on the deck. That makes them very difficult to grab, and it’s nearly impossible to do so with cold hands or with gloves on. To be truly useful in rescue situations, perimeter lines need to be elevated above the surface of the deck. The article in an earlier post makes a passing reference to “deck beads”, but they really should be on any boat used for more than lilly dipping. You can get 3/4" wooden beads at any craft store for little money. You’ll need to drill out the holes to fit your deck line (snug), but they’re simple to install and the difference they make is dramatic. The last three pictures in the following article show what they look like installed:
http://briannystrom.com/kayaking/tutorials/gelcoat-restoration/
@bnystrom said:
From a functional standpoint, the biggest problem with most perimeter lines is that they are flat on the deck. That makes them very difficult to grab, and it’s nearly impossible to do so with cold hands or with gloves on. To be truly useful in rescue situations, perimeter lines need to be elevated above the surface of the deck. The article in an earlier post makes a passing reference to “deck beads”, but they really should be on any boat used for more than lilly dipping. You can get 3/4" wooden beads at any craft store for little money. You’ll need to drill out the holes to fit your deck line (snug), but they’re simple to install and the difference they make is dramatic. The last three pictures in the following article show what they look like installed:
http://briannystrom.com/kayaking/tutorials/gelcoat-restoration/
That makes sense. So you would just thread the beads on the line and otherwise not attach them?
@SpaceSputnik said:
@bnystrom said:
From a functional standpoint, the biggest problem with most perimeter lines is that they are flat on the deck. That makes them very difficult to grab, and it’s nearly impossible to do so with cold hands or with gloves on. To be truly useful in rescue situations, perimeter lines need to be elevated above the surface of the deck. The article in an earlier post makes a passing reference to “deck beads”, but they really should be on any boat used for more than lilly dipping. You can get 3/4" wooden beads at any craft store for little money. You’ll need to drill out the holes to fit your deck line (snug), but they’re simple to install and the difference they make is dramatic. The last three pictures in the following article show what they look like installed:
http://briannystrom.com/kayaking/tutorials/gelcoat-restoration/That makes sense. So you would just thread the beads on the line and otherwise not attach them?
I would knot them in the center beacuse they could work to one end and not be as effective.
A lot of people around here run the deck lines through short pieces of thin plastic hose between each deck fitting. The hose is usually somewhere between 3/8" and 1/2" outer diameter.
Advantages: Easier on your hands when you have to pull hard. Easier to get your fingers under the hose.
Disadvantages: Looks like shit. Reflective lines are not really that reflective when hidden inside a clear plastic hose.
