I’m thinking about getting a lock for my kayak so I don’t have to worry about leaving it on the car if I stop anywhere. I was able to lock my last kayak down by looping the cable behind the hip brace but my new kayak has absolutely no where to attach a lock. Anyone have any experience with the kayak specific locks? Anyone use this one
http://www.marinelock.com/Kayak-Lock-fits-13-to-17_p_8-44.html
Thanks
Kayak locks
These locks do not require a specific attachment point on the kayak. They work by looping around the bow and stern with extra cable going under the roof rack and being secured with a lock.
Of course if a thief had the time and ability to remove the rack from the car, then this type of lock wouldn’t deter him.
stickprotection.com
well integrated system that is no different in operation than using a cam buckle strap.
See you on the water,
Marshall
The River Connection, Inc.
Hyde Park, NY
www.the-river-connection.com
I use homemade Lassos
like the tieyak, but I’m interested in the locking cam straps except the cost.
To make the lassos get the plastic coated cable, ferrules and shrink tube to fit over the ferrules at the hdw store. I make the large loops on mine just big enough to slide on but not past the hatches to make it harder for someone to open them. Also make the small loops just big enough for the other small loop to pass thru to give you more options for tieing. Better to be too long with the cables than too short, you can use up the extra by taking extra wraps around the rack or the boat and that makes them long enough to go around a tree if needed.
SYOTR
Randy
Lasso lock
It’s a two-piece sheathed cable with a loop at each end. Put one loop over the bow and one over the stern. Pass the cabling through your choice of rack or auto parts, loop around to take up any slack, and then lock the two plain ends together. They supply the lock --choice of combination or key style. Just make sure you are locking the boat to something on the vehicle that is secured to IT. No point in locking your boat to a QR tower/bar that isn’t itself locked.
Looks good but …
… they’re pretty pricey. Also, the potential thief may only see the webbing and not the embedded steel cables and start slicing away at it before realizing he can’t cut through the steel. Then the webbing is butchered up although the boat is probably safe. Might it be better to just use exposed steel cables to deter someone from even trying? And the cost is likely to be half.
Lasso Kong Cable
is what I use - it’s the same two piece system with a little thicker cable.