After years of owning assorted plastic kayaks, WS Tsunami, Sealution, and a Necky Elaho, I finally came across a good deal on a fiberglass Current Design Gulfstream. It’s in great condition and I’d like to keep it that way as long as I can. I launch from a lot of boat ramps that are fairly rough concrete which didn’t bother me with the plastics boats but make me cringe when thinking of my new yak being scrapped up. So the question is how good are keel strips to address this issue? Thanks for any help.
They slow your boat down a bit, but keep it not as banged up. I have them on one of my canoes…a Dagger Legend. I personally gave up the good looking boat belief. They are a tool, like a wrench. Use them to the fullest and who cares about gouges, scratches and holes for that matter. I guarantee on your last breath of air in the hospital you won’t be uttering, “I wished I had not scratched, but protected by boats a little more”.
Keel Easy strips are durable and prevent those irritating dings and scratches. I’ve never been fast enough to worry about a miniscule speed difference.
Launching and recovery from concrete isn’t bad , said the wood boat guy, if you pick the boat up walk out getting feet wet. It’s the awkward that damage the boat.
Keel strips slow the boat most when they start coming off the boat.
Learn to enter and exit in the water with the boat parallel to the shore in at least 6 inhes of water… Always carry your boat to and from the water. Never drag the boat onto, or off the shore. You might still get a little nick now and then, but my boats are many years old and still look like brand new. Your Gulfstream isn’t that heavy unless you have to carry a bunch of stuff with you.
I launch from concrete ramps quite often and I use the same in the water entry and exit–parallel to shore. The boat never touches the concrete. I treat my plastic boats the same as the composites.
I couldn’t care less that some people might think this is fanatical. I just believe in taking care of my things. Someone took great care while building these beautiful boats and I’m not going to purposely mess them up. I’ve been a woodworker for decades and I know how much work goes into fine furniture. I will not build anything for someone who I know won’t take good care of it.
yeah, I believe I’m gonna pass on the keel strips and just do the parallel entry and exit. Still going to try and take care of it without being too anal retentive .
At $4/foot get some KeelEazy so, with confidence, you can set the kayak to rest on the concrete ramp, or know that sacrificial layer is going to likely take it before your hull does. Do 3’ of bow & 3’ of stern. Less agita (sp? Siri wasn’t helping) and less cost than you fixing gouges. You’re still going to get events on the hull but hopefully fewer.
I don’t agree on the decrease in speed. I use keel strip kayaks in a variety of races and do better than ok.
See you on the water,
Marshall Seddon
The River Connection, Inc.
9 W. Market St.
Hyde Park, NY
845-229-0595 main
845-242-4731 mobile
Main: www.the-river-connection.com
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@The Nazz said:
yeah, I believe I’m gonna pass on the keel strips and just do the parallel entry and exit. Still going to try and take care of it without being too anal retentive .
I’m glad you can.
I am physically not capable of that any more.
I’m a fan of keel strips but not a fan of the KeelEasy product. I favor a glass strip applied by a professional. I’ve done my own and had them done by glassing experts. Theirs always come out better than mine and don’t cost that much. The KeelEasy are grippy so they don’t slide over things you want them to slide over.
Just sayin’.