Keeping electronic key fob safe on the water

I just wrapped the fob for my wife’s Mazda in aluminum foil and it would not start until I unwrapped it. Surprised the Altoids tin didn’t work but the Mazda fob is way too big to fit in one.

Mine sometimes says key fob not detected when I’m sitting in the car.

I use two plastic ziplock bags, with a couple heavy rubber bands, all within the smallest dry bag. Being Type 1, I need my monitor, and my meter, which MUST stay dry, my system seems to work, have found the dry bag floating in the bilge couple times, was dry inside, no damage, and yes, the dry bag tether was tied to the boat. Unless you are in white water, seems hard to get separated from your boat.

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If it’s at all windy on open water it’s all too common for a person not well practiced in a wet exit to become separated from their boat. I see it all the time teaching wet exits. All most people not accustomed to a wet exit are concentrating on is getting out of the boat, not necessarily holding on to their boat and paddle afterwards. With a bit of wind a boat will blow away a lot faster than most people can swim.

If alone, you’re screwed. If only with one person, especially in rough water, it’s generally not a good idea for the other person to go after the boat leaving the first person alone in the water. By the time a boat is secured and ready to be towed you may be a long way off and it’s really difficult to spot a bobbing head in the waves.

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I agree, forgot about that. We (I) have painters on each boat, both ends, on the yaks the other ends are loose coiled beneath the bungees, where a seated paddler can grab them, my wife does not do well in a steady wind, so, I have to tow her home from time to time. . I always wear a bright red hat when paddling, so far, that has not proven useful, would like it to remain true. I did lose one, in rapid current, it was an Indian 16 Royalex, that I found in the Dead a week after the first Lower Dead downriver race. Easy come, easy go. Lesson learned, keep painter loose and available, my canoes have small bungees on each deck plate, for coiling painters.

I just want to add a general comment to this old thread. A lot of people have recommended various devices claimed to be waterproof. Before you buy one of those, I suggest that you first look into exactly what “waterproof” means. For the purpose of a key fob it would mean “impervious to water when submerged.” But how deep, and for how long? This is defined by IP (ingress protection) codes issued by the International Electrotechnical Commission). For example, a device rated IPX8 can be submerged at 3 meters or more for at least 30 minutes. IPX7 protects up to 3 meters. IPX4 protects only from splashing water. Helpful chart: https://craftcadence.com/blogs/backpacks/ipx-waterproof-guide

So the questions are: Is a waterproof case rated? Do users report that the device actually works as promised?

To start with the popular Pelican boxes, they are rated as IP67––waterproof in up to 1 meter of water. That’s not all that impressive. If you drop the case in 1 meter of water you can hop out of your kayak and retrieve it by hand. What about deeper water? Many reviewers report that Pelican cases failed to protect their contents when submerged.

What about drybags that you fold several times to seal? The Backsak by Skogokust ($70) is IPX6, which is not a submersible rating––not much bang for your buck. This beefier drybag by Grizzly Peak has IP66 printed on it––again not submersible. https://www.amazon.com/Grizzly-Peak-Waterproof-Lightweight-Adjustable/dp/B07DM9YCR3

This drybag backpack is rated IP68––submersible to 1.5 m for 30 minutes.

More claimed ratings: Aquapac IPX8. Dripac IPX8. NiteIze IPX7.

Reviewers report failures for most of these cases and bags, especially with cellphones, cameras, and keyfobs. This can also indicate user error––some of the devices are difficult to close perfectly. And it can happen that a device is generally good but a specific one has a defective seal, hence the advice to test it by placing a kleenex in it and submersing it.

A final question is whether the protective device floats. Some cellphone cases have an air bladder and a drybag may float if it has air in it. Some cases, like my Nite Ize, are going straight to the bottom.

My point is that if you have valuables like a camera, you shouldn’t assume that something like a Pelican case is going to protect it just because it’s widely available and a well-known name. Check the IP rating and read the reviews carefully. Also consider a double or triple layer of protection, like a Pelican case inside a drybag in a hatch. Keeping your keyfob in a waterproof case in the pocket of your PFD is a way to overcome the problem of submersion over 3 feet. Although the Nite Ize is only IPX7 (1 meter, 30 minutes) I’m comfortable with that because it’s in my PFD pocket, but I’ll keep my eye out for a better IPX8 case.

I seriously hope you don’t overthink-to-death everything in your life like this. Just put the damned key fob in a ziplock bag, tuck it in your PFD pocket and go paddling. It’s not rocket science.

I’m sorry if that sounds harsh, but this thread “jumped the shark” a long time ago and it’s long past time to put it to rest.

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The internet’s lasting legacy is that it exists to overthink things to death. :slight_smile:

So, you’re saying these cases do not offer protection from jumping sharks?

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I don’t trust zip lock bags. When I first started kayaking, we tried land walkie talkies in zip lock bags. Seemed like a good idea, but they didn’t last an hour.

I consider the inconvenience of water damage, the cost of a new key fob and reprogramming. I previously put the fob and phone in one large case. On one trip, I got back and checked the case - no key fob. It fell out in the bottom of the boat when I fiddled with the phone during the trip; fortunately, no water in the boat on that trip.

Now I use the small Pelican case from my first flip phone to protect the fob, and a dedicated Pelican case for the smart phone.

@RC51Mike only if the shark doesn’t chew.

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Well, I just double-ziplock the FOB and try to stay dry. That being said, my 2015 Honda FOB has gone through the wash before with no ill effects. Maybe I was lucky.

If you read my post, it was not all about keyfobs,. Some people carry hundreds if not thousands of dollars of equipment in a kayak—camera, laptop, etc. I revived this topic because I’ve been looking for a submersible drybag or backpack. I was surprised at how many supposedly waterproof bags and cases are not really waterproof. That made me wonder what the definition of waterproof is and which devices actually are waterproof. If your only advice is to get a ziplock bag, I’d say this isn’t a topic that has meaning for you personally. But there are people who are interested waterproof containers—divers, photographers, paddlers, swimmers . . . Matter of fact, there was an article about IP ratings in today’s New York Times.

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Sounds like you’re looking for diving gear then more or less. Something that can take being underwater, and not just under the surface for a prolonged amount of time. That’s not something I personally need since I just use a couple of small floatable dry bags. My camera is a GoPro Hero 10 that I put on a floating mount so I don’t have to worry about that.

Buy an old car no fobs to worry about :joy::laughing:

Even my Excursion & Dodge 3500 have 5 or 10 dollar fobs . Keep Grand Cherokee 250+ :face_vomiting::nauseated_face:

Old cars are no fun. They have cassette decks, or eight tracks even. And AM radios.

And people here know what those were.

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old cars were all fine. New ones tons of problems to complicated.

Depending on year. 15,000 tune-ups vs 100,000. Dual point distributor adjustments; carb adjustments, suspensions different; power and gas mileage different. Choice between a 1970 and 2000 or 2010, ill keep the later model. You can have the older ones. Great nostalgia.

Wow we just went through this dilemma as we paddle in remote locations and I have a new 600 Euro key fob :sob:

My old car 20 year old BMW x5 had a valet key I kept in a hide a key under the car.

I agree about people watching you because once I was windsurfing from Red Hook in St Thomas to St John and some kids watched me from the woods and stole my purse from the trunk of the car.

We have the key feature on iPhone (digital key) and have some redundancy so we don’t take the key Fob but leave it locked in the glove compartment.

It’s not perfect if we are separated and wet but the best we can come up with. My phone is not locked away because I’m using the camera and it is water resistant on a bungie cord. I feel I would get sloppy with a Pelican because I’ve used them before on dive boats and they are not easy access.

My car won’t let me lock the keyFob in the box unless I’m using the digital key to LOCK my vehicle.

My x7 doesn’t have a place to stick a key but the Defender does (so you can use a hard key)

I don’t carry contents that can’t get wet (a large Euro bill, chapstick, sunscreen stick)

Sometimes we paddle to a place and decide to eat and I just use Apple Pay because it’s more secure than a credit card (the vendor doesn’t have the number, blind transaction)

We are carrying a DJI Air 2 drone and sometimes a Nikon and we are interested in this bag for easy access: they claim it is water resistant.


We like having one kayak and one pack canoe and trade off (dog, gear in the Dragonfly 24 lb pack canoe)

This way we can take all our picnic and camera gear and have one wet person and one dry.

It might seem complicated to many but we like to avoid crowds, eat, take a lot of pictures, and stay out 5-6 hours.

No, we do not or we would have drysuits by now :laughing:

$12

Pelican 1010 Micro Case - Black

Pelican 1010 Micro Case - Black

You should get it by Aug 2.

The Otter box is good for a phone because you can still use it.